Dougs headers beating me with a ball bat

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idrift

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Well, I now have the old headers out and thank god the previous owner
already hacked the side off the bellhousing or I'd be in trouble getting
the "easy" side in. So the passengers side is up, the old drivers side is
out, the center link is down, the access cover is off the trans, the starter
is out and the pitman arm is off.

So, that said, I still don't see how this sucker is gonna fit. Anyone who's
installed dougs headers in a swinger 340 with a 4 speed, tell me what else
I have to tear apart to get these in. I havent even begun to start the fun
with the Z bar yet.
 
I believe there,s a..sticky on installing the TTI,s with a 4 speed.It might help with your install?Hope it helps.
 
I had to jack up the engine when I put Hedman headeres on my old 340 4 spd duster But the drivers side sure is a pain.
 
They aren't going in unless you lift the engine up.

It's good fun no doubt! Sort of like how I enjoy smacking my thumbs with a hammer... that kind of fun.
 
I lifted the one side or tipped it if you will to get the passengers side in.
I was going to do the same for the drivers side.

I found a completely shot idler arm and my steering box has about 3/8" top
to bottom end play on it when you push it up and down so I am thinking that
might need some repair....

yep this is like hitting you thumb over, and over, and over lol
 
Pull the Z bar, Lift the driver side of the motor up. I usually pull the T bar also. Makes life alot easier and doesnt take much work to get the bar in and out.
 
does anyone know about the steering box? I found steer&gear and they are
300 bucks (way over budget and playing fathers day card in a big way)
but I found a couple other stock rebuilt ones for 215.
 
I hate to bring you something else to worry about, But i got my dougs on a while ago. I had to move the engine over to get them to fit, but the last headers didn't fit right either.

But i finally got the headers and new exhaust on and it sounded like the drivers side manifold gasket was leaking. Took it off and could't find where it had blown out. Got some of the XX Carbon gaskets that I had used to seal a leak with the previous headers and it was still leaking.

this time I looked and could see (and feel the air) coming out of a gap on the #7 cylinder. It was a gap that wasn't welded between the pipe and flange at 1 o'clock. Took it to the shop and got it with the mig. However I don't feel that i got all of it, I also think I tacked the bolt to the header.

Just something you might want to investigate, or at least be less bummed about if it happens to you too.

But my bolt holes did line up fine.

Steve
 
LOL you want Easy, use stock manifolds..... 8)

There is no Easy way to put headers on an Abody Mopar,
but your suggestion is right, 1qwikScamp. ;)

1qwikScamp said:
i think its easyest to set the header in the bay first then set the engine down in there
Click to expand...
 
I also pulled the motor to install my hookers and do agree there is no easy way.
 
I installed my TTIs with the front of the car hoisted about 4' in the air. I had already installed a 2x4 between the motor mounts so the motor is lifted(I did that on each side as I went). z-bar has to go. The headers installed from underneath the car to there proper position. I don't know about the Dougs but on the drivers side the TTI has a separate tube that mounts in later (the back exhaust tube) which makes things easier. On the passengers side I had to shave the scattershield until the header slid past it to the motor. It wasn't really that bad.
 
I agree w/Mullinax95 w/the TTI install. Right side went in like butter but went w/ the flush mount oil filter adapter instead of the r/a adapter and installed a short oil filter. I pulled the steering column to install the left side for clearance just in case. Never lifted the moder, no shims needed, and never pulled the t-bar. Fit like a glove. I had hookers initially and will never look back. Hacked them off w/the sawsall and in the scrap pile they went.

Go TTI's or stick w/the stock exhaust manifolds.

Pay a little more but they are worth it.
 
Pulling the steering column makes dougs go in pretty easy too.

tti's were modeled after dougs.
 
I actually had the most trouble on the passengers side. I had trouble
fitting them with the t-bar and bellhousing.

The drivers side dropped right in, but I had the column pulled back and
steering box out so that made it easier.

Then there was the Z bar fitting fun. They are in now and I have to
say, they are very nice. Changed spark plugs in about 20 minutes
the other night.

The other cool perk was when my daughter looked at them she said
"cool they marked your name on them for you" gotta love that!
 
idrift said:
I actually had the most trouble on the passengers side. I had trouble
fitting them with the t-bar and bellhousing.

The drivers side dropped right in, but I had the column pulled back and
steering box out so that made it easier.

Then there was the Z bar fitting fun. They are in now and I have to
say, they are very nice. Changed spark plugs in about 20 minutes
the other night.

The other cool perk was when my daughter looked at them she said
"cool they marked your name on them for you" gotta love that!
Click to expand...

Glad you got them in!
 
idrift said:
I actually had the most trouble on the passengers side. I had trouble
fitting them with the t-bar and bellhousing.

The drivers side dropped right in, but I had the column pulled back and
steering box out so that made it easier.

Then there was the Z bar fitting fun. They are in now and I have to
say, they are very nice. Changed spark plugs in about 20 minutes
the other night.

The other cool perk was when my daughter looked at them she said
"cool they marked your name on them for you" gotta love that!
Click to expand...

Hello,

How did you correct the Z-bar? I saw a picture on here somewhere,where a member used flat stock and stepped it down (if that makes sense). It looked pretty cool and also looked strong has heck!

I'm glad you were able to get them installed. And you had your name printed on them!
 
It took putting 2 bends in the stock Z bar. The clearance is way tight
between the mini starter and the header tube. I think I am no more than
an 1/8" on either side now, but so far after over 100 miles, it's still working.

I could jack the car and and take a picture if anyone is interested.

They weld a nice plate on the headers that says "Doug's" so my daughter
assumed I had it welded on for me lol.
 
scuba0331 said:
Hello,

How did you correct the Z-bar? I saw a picture on here somewhere,where a member used flat stock and stepped it down (if that makes sense). It looked pretty cool and also looked strong has heck!

I'm glad you were able to get them installed. And you had your name printed on them!
Click to expand...

That sounds like my picture lol!

3.jpg


DSC01400.jpg
 
Yes sir Mullinax that is the one.! :notworth: Thank you.

When I am finally able to install my headers that is the approach I think I am going to take. It seems like a pretty straight foward design.

Thanks again!
 
scuba0331 said:
Yes sir Mullinax that is the one.! :notworth: Thank you.

When I am finally able to install my headers that is the approach I think I am going to take. It seems like a pretty straight foward design.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Your welcome.

It made a world of difference in the z-bar install. The previous owner had already done the dirty work to clear the Hooker headers.
 
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