Drag Strip tips and advice needed.
- Thread starter Kent mosby
- Start date
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Rmoore
Well-Known Member
Yes Sir you definitely needed to get a bung welded to your exhaust ! Then you can screw the sensor into the bung !! You can’t have unmetered air coming in !! The O2 will read lean and tell the computer to fatten up the system ! That maybe your problem !! You get lean codes every time ! Does your fuel injection have a mass air meter or a map sensor ? I’m not familiar these after market fuel injection systems
Is this a drive by wire FI system? Or is there an actual cable.
Problem may be the table has been adjusted in a way that you are going to have issues. Hard to say until you get it breathing properly.
If it's drive by wire, space the pedal away from the floor more or recalibrate it for 100% at current swing. Cable, get it set up correctly for full throttle.
Problem may be the table has been adjusted in a way that you are going to have issues. Hard to say until you get it breathing properly.
If it's drive by wire, space the pedal away from the floor more or recalibrate it for 100% at current swing. Cable, get it set up correctly for full throttle.
I have a full exhaust after the sensor. The tuner did notice it and I thought I fixed it with a new one to clamp on. Nope. Welding is a must.
It is a regular throttle cable. It just needs to be adjusted.
Yes the EFI doe have a map sensor and O2 sensor that it uses to properly mix the fuel.
Time to fix a few things.
Thanks for all the help.
It is a regular throttle cable. It just needs to be adjusted.
Yes the EFI doe have a map sensor and O2 sensor that it uses to properly mix the fuel.
Time to fix a few things.
Thanks for all the help.
Get er' done. I want to hear of that thing running in the 11's.
I pulled the left side plugs, noticed that plug 7 was not connected, just loosely sitting there???? Not sure why. Picture is plug 1,3,5,7 right to left. I will be welding the O2 bung before anything else. I will also get the 8 am hose to complete the connection to the efi and eliminate the -6an restriction
True confessions, so, the last trip to the strip I totally went unprepared. Not only was plug 7 not plugged in but Plug 8 was not either. I was rerouting things and I guess I got distracted. I finished welding up the O2 sensor and repairing a leak in the pipe connection after the sensor. I also fixed the plug wires and routed them correctly. I now have a tachometer installed as well as a line lock fully functioning. I took it for a short trip to the gas station and OOOH what a difference. I can almost guarantee in the low 12s on Friday, next races. Now I have to learn how to do the line lock, do a burnout and find the best shift points to program into the tach..Question??? If the max hp is at say 5200 (I do not know yet, dyno tune in 2 weeks) where would you set the light to come on the tach? Next week I will do a complete check of all the car before going to the track.
Try 5400-5600 to start. Get comfortable and then worry about moving shift points, etc.
I guess you found out why it was smoking and running rich. That V6 moves OK!
I guess you found out why it was smoking and running rich. That V6 moves OK!
Well, If I did not have bad luck, I would not have any luck at all. At the test and tune last night I did get a couple runs in the 12s, 12.871 at 106 then disaster happens. We pulled into the pits with smoke/steam coming out the exhaust. Pure white smoke. That ended the night of course. Brand new engine (less than 500 miles) and now I have a blown head gasket or worse. The temperature shot up to 214 as well. Today I looked at the coolant and it is brown/greenish. I do not remember what kind of gasket at the moment or if this one was placed dry or with any gasket sealer, copper or ?
I am hoping that it is just a head gasket. What else should I look for or at?
I am hoping that it is just a head gasket. What else should I look for or at?
To have that happen this soon, I'd pull both heads.
You could have bolts bottoming out before the gasket is compressed by the torque value.
Not that you have.. but I've seen happen cause the threads in the block were not cleaned. (Chased)
If you're not using hardened washers, you really should.
Got my fingers crossed for ya!
You could have bolts bottoming out before the gasket is compressed by the torque value.
Not that you have.. but I've seen happen cause the threads in the block were not cleaned. (Chased)
If you're not using hardened washers, you really should.
Got my fingers crossed for ya!
PRH
Well-Known Member
That sucks.
The silver lining is...... it should be quicker after it’s repaired.
The silver lining is...... it should be quicker after it’s repaired.
Look like between cylinder 1 and 3. Right side looks good. I will keep digging into it
I pulled the heads today. What a pain. You have to remove the steering column to remove the headers to remove the bolts. Oh well. It looks like operator error. The gasket has a bend in it by cylinder. 1-3. Maybe I dinged it during the install. Hard to say at this point. Just curious, why is it that the coolant passages do not all line up. The holes are connected by a slot? Is it to restrict the amount of flow for an aluminum head? The 2 on the bottom are blocked off.
They were from 440 source as a kit. Complete Engine Gasket Kit-440 Source not sure the kind. I am looking to replace them with a quality set but I am unfamiliar with the brands and quality. These were .065 inch squeezed to .050 inch.
What brand and type is best for a 512 RB motor?
The head gasket is what decides how the coolant flows threw the head and block.
It does a good job but there are artistic out there to improve it. Search Sandborn.
For most, the standard head gasket does a good job.
It does a good job but there are artistic out there to improve it. Search Sandborn.
For most, the standard head gasket does a good job.
440 Source Head Gaskets-440 Source. This was probably the brand and type. Recommendations??
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
Did you retorque the head's?
well..... it wouldn't be a $15 head gasket... (I"m having trouble understanding WHY they sold you those gaskets)
Cometic MLS They're expensive, but reusable, available in most any thickness, and won't fail like that.
Cometic MLS They're expensive, but reusable, available in most any thickness, and won't fail like that.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Looks like Trick Flow heads?
Assuming the block has a freshly machined, and pretty smooth surface..........Get Cometics.
Don’t worry about the coolant holes.
It doesn’t flow through the motor the way most(many?) people think it does.
Assuming the block has a freshly machined, and pretty smooth surface..........Get Cometics.
Don’t worry about the coolant holes.
It doesn’t flow through the motor the way most(many?) people think it does.
I don't remember re-torquing the heads. I will do this time. i will get cometics. Thanks for all the help.
What thickness? .027 gives me 10.95:1.CR .030. 10.88:1. .036. 10.74:1. .038. 10.7:1.
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