Drive motor on Mastercraft MIG welder stopped working.

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Scott, how can I tell which contacts are normally open? There are 2 wires, 1 white and 1 black that connect to relay. The connectors on top of the relay arent marked +ve or -ve. Also you can see the connections/solder on bottom side of circuit board where I'm pointing(see pic).
I'm assuming these are for the connectors on top of relay?
4 points of contact, trying to figure which ones to test?
Thanks!
Steve

that clicking noise is probably a relay controlled by the trigger. if you can bypass the common/normally open contacts on the relay without pulling the trigger and the motor turns you have a bad relay, if it does not you have a bad connection to the motor or a bad motor

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Fucked it good now...see empty space at "D7"....yeah it blew off. Fml...
So I would assume circuit board is pooched now lol.
C***sucker!:elmer::BangHead:

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Hi there,
I have the same welder and im having the exact same issue. Did you ever come up with a solution? Thanks. Apparently Mastercraft customer service is a joke.
 
I sent my circuit board to a member on here to test it. That's the only thing I could think of that fd up. I pull trigger I hear click...to me that means switch is good.
I emailed CT months back and got typical covid response. All i want is name of mfg....good luck.
Hi there,
I have the same welder and im having the exact same issue. Did you ever come up with a solution? Thanks. Apparently Mastercraft customer service is a joke.
 
I sent my circuit board to a member on here to test it. That's the only thing I could think of that fd up. I pull trigger I hear click...to me that means switch is good.
I emailed CT months back and got typical covid response. All i want is name of mfg....good luck.
thats exactly the issue im having. Getting a huge run around CT and Mastercraft. They have lost my business for sure.
 
Take note of the people on the floor there....at par with Walmart. Now remember give them a couple years and they will be promoted to mgmt.
I was in one at home(store, not employee!) and noticed one of their dipshits walking around with fn handcuffs?? Wtf???
I wont shop there if I gotta rely on them for customer service.
thats exactly the issue im having. Getting a huge run around CT and Mastercraft. They have lost my business for sure.
 
I admit I've been "slow." CAN ANYONE POST A LINK TO ENGLISH documentation of the board? I found a 'somewhat' "maybe" diagram on a Russian? page.

On Steve's board the bridge rectifier module seems to be bad as I rcall, as well
 
Hey all, sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but did anyone ever get anywhere with this? I have the same welder, lent it to a friend (horrible mistake) when it was returned to me the drive rollers don't turn when the trigger is pulled.

Seems like the same issue OP was having - when I pull the trigger I hear the relay click, but the wire feed remains inactive. I used a battery to test the motor, it turns when it gets power, so my guess is something was wrong at the board; however nothing looked problematic. I decided to take the board out to have a more thorough look and it appears that the connection between the wire feed pot and the pcb was broken (either that, of I broke it while removing it, but I don't think that happened).

Could it really be as simple as just replacing that pot?
 
It's been too cold in the shop for me to give it a workout. But I give it a quick "test" and it made sparks!
I just saw that Canadian tire has them.on sale. $229, down from $599. Canadian/Crappy Tire should be ashamed for their lack of support on their junk
THANKS AGAIN DEL!
@67Dart273
Hey all, sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but did anyone ever get anywhere with this? I have the same welder, lent it to a friend (horrible mistake) when it was returned to me the drive rollers don't turn when the trigger is pulled.

Seems like the same issue OP was having - when I pull the trigger I hear the relay click, but the wire feed remains inactive. I used a battery to test the motor, it turns when it gets power, so my guess is something was wrong at the board; however nothing looked problematic. I decided to take the board out to have a more thorough look and it appears that the connection between the wire feed pot and the pcb was broken (either that, of I broke it while removing it, but I don't think that happened).

Could it really be as simple as just replacing that pot?
 
It's been too cold in the shop for me to give it a workout. But I give it a quick "test" and it made sparks!
I just saw that Canadian tire has them.on sale. $229, down from $599. Canadian/Crappy Tire should be ashamed for their lack of support on their junk
THANKS AGAIN DEL!
@67Dart273
Yeah, they go on sale about 1 week a month. I bought mine used from a dude who was retiring for $125 CAD, so I'm SOL for warranty. For my bad welding it's a fine enough machine, when it works.
 
I could tell you theres a "work around" for the warranty, but....lol:rolleyes:
Good luck
Yeah, they go on sale about 1 week a month. I bought mine used from a dude who was retiring for $125 CAD, so I'm SOL for warranty. For my bad welding it's a fine enough machine, when it works.
 
The "board" in Steve's welder is a real oddball

There is a 24V control transformer that powers part of it. This allows some functions. The motor speed control circuits and motor are actually powered by the main welder output---the same power that feeds the gun/ the weld

So with the welder powered on, the 24V transformer goes to a bridge rectifier on the board and provides control voltage. When you pull the trigger, the larger relay feeds 120V AC to the big main transformer, which comes alive, goes to the main welder rectifier, and provides unfiltered DC to the welding gun AND BACK TO THE BOARD to the speed control, then back out to the feed motor.

One problem with trying to decipher these things is that there seems to be a "number" of variations likely made by several/ many small manufacturers in "whatever third world" these come from. I did finally find a diagram "in Russian."

And of course I did not have the rest of the welder to troubleshoot it as a unit.
 
Thanks again Del, much appreciated. Off for 2 weeks shortly, so if weather gets mild I may venture to the shop.
:thumbsup:
LOL I actually have no idea what this means.

The "board" in Steve's welder is a real oddball

There is a 24V control transformer that powers part of it. This allows some functions. The motor speed control circuits and motor are actually powered by the main welder output---the same power that feeds the gun/ the weld

So with the welder powered on, the 24V transformer goes to a bridge rectifier on the board and provides control voltage. When you pull the trigger, the larger relay feeds 120V AC to the big main transformer, which comes alive, goes to the main welder rectifier, and provides unfiltered DC to the welding gun AND BACK TO THE BOARD to the speed control, then back out to the feed motor.

One problem with trying to decipher these things is that there seems to be a "number" of variations likely made by several/ many small manufacturers in "whatever third world" these come from. I did finally find a diagram "in Russian."

And of course I did not have the rest of the welder to troubleshoot it as a unit.
 
cough getamiller cough

iagree.gif
I've had two Hobarts (slow learner) and finally bought a Miller 141 with 'Auto-Set'....best investment I ever made. That welder runs rings around either of the Hobarts. Yeah, I know, Hobart is part of Miller but there still is a world of difference between the two brands. At least that is my experience.
 
A shout out and thanks to Del @67Dart273 . Making sparks, and sizzling bacon lol. Definitely need to work on my welds, but it's working!
MUCH appreciated!:thumbsup:

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  1. Nice! Glad to see its up and working. Good on Del for helping you out. He doesn't know it but he's helped me out considerably. I must have 35 bookmarks from different post of his!
 
Thanks Steve. Glad to see I finally done somethun' right LOL
 
Heck yeah man! Glad to see you got it goin and it didn't break the bank. That's always a plus.
 
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