driveshaft problems?

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gt273

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i have a 1966 dart with 273 four speed factory. i want to install a 489 8 3/4 rear. i thought i could just have the driveshaft shortened but its has inner shaft with the outer tube shaft. question is can this shaft be shortened to work? it has a factory 7 1/4 posi unit now. thanks in advance.

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Usually driveshaft shop will tell you it's best to replace the old tube with a new one.
Did several of the iso tube 7 1/4'' change overs when going to a 8 3/4''.
Different shops,same answer. Just a thought.
 
When I switched rears the driveshaft shop said they couldn't shorten the same type of "double layer" (actually they said they could shorten it but could not guarentee it). They made a new drive shaft, fits like a glove.
 
When I switched rears the driveshaft shop said they couldn't shorten the same type of "double layer" (actually they said they could shorten it but could not guarentee it). They made a new drive shaft, fits like a glove.
thats what i thought. done dozens of these swaps but never ran into the 2 piece shaft before.
 
Those can slip, too, and get "out of clock." U joints MUST be clocked rotationally. You should be able to sight down the length like a rifle barrel and the the caps should be "in line" with each other
 
question is can this shaft be shortened to work?

The topic of this type of propeller shaft came up on For C-Bodies Only (FCBO). I provided an information post there that I will also post here in the following.

Regarding the question of shortening, It's not advisable for this type of shaft, especially with its age and possible isolation condition. If attempted, it likely should be done at the front end. The back end with the outer and inner tubes coupled with the internal rubber isolation rings complicate any shortening, although it might be bypassed by removing the inner shaft and isolation and using just the outer tube and different universal joint yoke.

Borrowing a picture from the FCBO query, shows part of the rubber isolating rings failing in a 1968 propeller shaft:
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Following is the posting I made on FCBO, FYI....

Chrysler introduced the Internal Vibration Absorber (IVA) propeller shaft (aka drive shaft) for certain applications for the 1966 model year. Applications were determined through Noise/Vibration/Harshness (NVH) studies. Two approaches include the addition of the inertia ring at the front of the shaft, or a rubber isolation with inner and outer shells added at the rear of the shaft. These approaches were phased out in later years as other NVH control methods were used in body structure, suspension mounting, etc. 1966 was also when the constant velocity joints were dropped in favor of cross and roller universal joints on all models except Imperial.

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From:
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Additional industry-wide information for the IVA Propeller Shaft can be found in SAE technical paper, " Axle Noise Control - The IVA Propeller Shaft", Product Code 690259, Jan 31, 1969.
 
the 273 doesn't need 1350 joints, the 7290 is more than adequate. you would have to buy after market trans yoke and yoke for rear end. just food for thought.
 
either buy a shaft that can be shortened or have new one made. I bought a 1 piece shaft that was 2 in too long and had the local shop shorten and balance it 1/4 oz of weight was all it needed when they were done.
 
the 273 doesn't need 1350 joints, the 7290 is more than adequate. you would have to buy after market trans yoke and yoke for rear end. just food for thought.
I’ve broken 7290’s with that combo (273/4speed) I said consider the upgrade as I’ve never had an issue with the 1350’s on my Dart or my Ram on 37’s
 
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