Drum brake installation troubles...

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ytownxj

ytownxj

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So I have been trying to redo the drum brakes on my 72 demon and bought all new hardware kits and drums for my drums all the way around. After installing the hardware kits the drums either go on so tight the wheel won't turn at all or it is too tight to even get the drum on. I was wondering what ideas everyone had on fixing this. I was considering getting the drums turned or getting a smaller brake adjuster or something. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
 
Having the drums cut is the way to do it. this problem has come up for me when useing off shore parts not made exactly to spec. Ethier drums and/or shoes can be out of spec. (To thick.)
 
Now just wait a minute:

Are you sure you have the right cylinders, or are they original?

Did you check the length of the old/ new adjusters and cylinder push-rods?

Are the drums new or the old ones?

They "should fit." if not, the lining is probably incorrect and oversize.

(The factory did not go around turning out new drums)

I spose in this day and age of quality control issues, anything is possible.
 
The cylinders are original, adjusters and push rods match up with the original ones and the drums are all new. New hardware, new shoes, new drums. The fitting problem seems to be with the shoe and drum thickness conflicting... just for reference I am using raybestos shoes, dorman hardware, and bendix drums, all new.
 
Check your E brake cable and make sure it's relaxed. I had the same problem with new hardware. I loosened the adjuster a little and it went right together.
 
ytownxj said:
The cylinders are original, adjusters and push rods match up with the original ones and the drums are all new. New hardware, new shoes, new drums. The fitting problem seems to be with the shoe and drum thickness conflicting... just for reference I am using raybestos shoes, dorman hardware, and bendix drums, all new.
Click to expand...

Post a pic if you can.
 
Small shoe is forward... I'll go out tomorrow and take a pic of it and put it up. I've set up drums before but never had this much trouble.
 
Perhaps checking the shoe's contact with the drum. It could be they're just touching the top of their arc and it needs a little dressing.

I'd sure like to get my hands on a brake/drum caliper so's one could measure the fit-up before the trouble of getting it all together.
 
Before you cut the new drums, try the old ones. If they fit you might very well have to turn the new ones. Tension on the e-brake cable might affect the rears, but still doesn't solve the front problems.
 
The only problem is I had the machine shop throw away the old rears after they said they didn't have enough material to be turned... as for the front the fit works well with the old drums
 
ytownxj said:
The only problem is I had the machine shop throw away the old rears after they said they didn't have enough material to be turned... as for the front the fit works well with the old drums
Click to expand...

That could point to the e brake adjustment. Have you recently upgraded to 8 3/4 from 7 1/4? If so that is the problem. Try and back off the e brake adjustment and see if that helps, it doesn't take much.
 
The e brake cable is loose, i haven't done any axle swap on the demon so it should all be set as far as the e brake is concerned. I can pull down on the cable under the car and have plenty of slack, not under tension at all
 
Im in your same boat right now.....ill be watching this thread.....but I did the swap to 8 1/4 ...not to thread Jack
 
I've studied the pics closely and cannot see one thing wrong.
The tops of the shoes could go just a tiny bit closer to the wheel cylinder before the shoe hits the cylinders dust boot. The bottoms of the shoes could move closer together of the adjuster was removed.
So yeah what I am about to suggest requires tearing the assembly down again.
Use a file or die grinder to remove a 1/16 inch from the 4 square notch provisions in the shoes' rib. That's what I would do anyway.
Main reason is you want the adjuster turned out a click or 3. If its jammed to the bottom of the threads the adjust paw wont move it. Heck even the adjusters thrust washer missing will prevent its working properly.
The rib in the shoe is the only place and also the easiest place to find a little forgiveness.

Well I did see one thing wrong. The T washer on the top spring post is upside down. Its ears belong under the shoe flange. The way it is now is of no consequence or relative to the fit issue but did I look closely or what ? LOL
 
ytownxj,

You've got your shoes on wrong (sounds funny doesn't it). Look at the pictures I've attached. The first picture is of a stock 10 x 2.5" rear brake set up (same side of car as your pics). Look at the top of the shoes in my pic and compare to yours. See how the rear shoe brake material is higher in my pic? EDIT: {Originally it looked like his rear shoe was also a primary (short shoe), but after going back and looking it does appear to be a secondary (longer shoe) on the back} END EDIT. Use my pics as reference (pic 1, drivers side; pic 2 is pass side; pic 3 is new pass side). All pics are 10 X 2.5" rear brakes.

Second possible problem, you are trying to put 10" brakes on a 9" brake drum and backing plate. What is the 5th digit in your VIN, a "C" or a "G"? If it's a C, then your car probably came with 9" drums. Did you get the correct parts? If car has a C, and you told parts guy it has a 318 in it then he gave you 10" shoes, not 9".

Hope this helps.
 

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You've got your shoes on wrong (sounds funny doesn't it).
Click to expand...

For the life of me, I can't see where the OP has his brakes assembled incorrectly. The one thing I do see in comparing the pics is the OP's e brake lever is further forward than yours. If that's the case an 1/8th of an inch can make all the difference.

The OP's pic shows driver side, with the short shoe to the front and the long shoe to the rear. The one difference is look at the hole at the bottom of the rear shoe and notice that there is a sliver of space there where the e brake lever is forward more than yours.

Switching shoes side to side is not going to bring the material further up on the steel.
 
badsport said:
...Switching shoes side to side is not going to bring the material further up on the steel.
Click to expand...

Actually, it will. Because if you swap shoes from the correct side to the incorrect side the front shoe will be on the back of the axle, and the back shoe will be on the front of the axle. Or, if he has only completed one side, it's possible to put both back or both front shoes on one side. Not saying that this is the OP's problem for sure, just something to check.
 
In other words, the short (primary) shoe is alway put on the front (of the car) side.
 
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