Dual Action Sander, bang for the buck

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gzig5

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Got a lot of panel sanding in front of me. I need to pickup a 5-6" dual action sander. I'd like to get one that will work well, is easy to find pads for, easy to change pads, and the pads don't break the bank. What should I be looking at? Rather not spend $200+ but does a $50 work and last? Anything I spend takes away from the TIG welder bucket.
 
For your project and because you didnt say if youre a bodyman for a living, Get a Harbor Freight D/A and sanding discs.....being a hobbyist, this doesnt matter going inexpensive. You can get sanding discs from either Harbor Frieght or PPG painters supply if you want premium products. Make sure you have a compressor with at least 5 hp and a 30 gallon tank for use. The more air supply the better. Good luck!! pads are available in either velcro, or sticky discs. what ever you prefer.
I use sticky discs for use on paint removal. works well.
HR 20
 
I have a Hutchins that I bought in 1989!!! It was $150 then and I think they’re $250.

Whichever one you chose make sure it’s at least a 6” as paper is more expensive the smaller sizes. Make sure you have a compressor that will run it also... a DA eats up a lot of air!!!

just make sure you don’t get one of these...

6 in. Dual Action Air Sander

They cause some serious warpage to you panels!!!

If I were to buy another one, I would get this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FP414H7/?tag=fabo03-20

They’re easier to work and cause less issues down the road!
 
I've heard a few people say the cheapies will warp metal...I didn't really believe it till I experienced it...no more cheapies for me...
 
I've heard a few people say the cheapies will warp metal...I didn't really believe it till I experienced it...no more cheapies for me...
Lol...Its the operator that warps metal....because using the tool with the wrong technique, its heat that warps metal.. (too much pressure on the surface and too coarse grit of paper)....if you dont know what youre doing seek out help. Ive never warped metal because of "cheap" D/A's,.... Ive been doing this for 40 yrs. and if you do get the "cheapie" model, keep it oiled before every use... it'll be fine. :)
 
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I've got a good quality 60gal, 5hp, two-stage compressor that puts out more than the local *****, so I'm good there. Not for commercial use, just my Cuda for now but I don't want to be screwing around with the tool when the time comes. The one on Amazon looks good enough. It's been a while but I did a dozen cars with my Dad 30years ago, so I'm familiar with the process. We did it mostly manually back then and I'm not up to that anymore. I picked up a good inline board sander at a garage sale. Last thing I need is a 3 or four inch with a semi-rigid pad for dressing welds.
 
dont forget to check the pawn shops for good deals on tools.
still using a good quality DA I picked up 20 years ago at one for $49.
A couple new pads, replaced a bearing or two, routine maintenance stuff...its still working great.
 
There are a variety of fine electric dual action sanders, disc orbitals and large rectangular finish sanders. and a long board for the hand work
It takes a good 14cfm to maintain a air powered DA or vertical file.
 
dont forget to check the pawn shops for good deals on tools.
No pawn shops local but I peruse them when we are in Florida. Never seen a bargain, always overpriced or junk. I'll keep trying though.

It takes a good 14cfm to maintain a air powered DA or vertical file.
I believe mine is rated at least 16cfm at 175psi.
 
Several years ago I bought a Ingersoll Rand DA at a local paint supply store. It was priced right and works great.
 
Is anyone running the Chicago Pneumatic CP3510 or CP3512, and if so how do you like it?

cp.com

I have been using one at work. So far it has been nice to use, and am interested in it's quality and any maintenance issues. Good and bad. Thanks in advance.
 
Hutchins is a finish sander with a tight pattern. A National Detroit is good for material removal. 80 grit is the coarsest paper you should use.
Dynabrade is another good brand. Ingersoll Rand is good as well. The CP would probably be ok for the price. The cheapies usually don't last long and are air hogs. 6" is what you need. Sandpaper is easy to come by for those.
 
I have had a IR for years and it has held up good.
 
I have had a IR for years and it has held up good.
Yes sir. Pretty much anything IR is hard to beat. I forgot IR but added it to my post. Been out of the tool business a few too many years.
 
The less money you spend the more air you will need.
Had a cp for many years until i loaned it out. Whatever they used for oil destroyed it. May have been no oil and a lot of water.
Replaced it with an ingersoll and its fine. I would like to invest in an 8” d/a for knocking down big areas, word is it makes for a flatter surface.
 
The less money you spend the more air you will need.
Had a cp for many years until i loaned it out. Whatever they used for oil destroyed it. May have been no oil and a lot of water.
Replaced it with an ingersoll and its fine. I would like to invest in an 8” d/a for knocking down big areas, word is it makes for a flatter surface.
A mud hog. They are aggressive but get it done.
 
Is anyone running the Chicago Pneumatic CP3510 or CP3512, and if so how do you like it?

cp.com

I have been using one at work. So far it has been nice to use, and am interested in it's quality and any maintenance issues. Good and bad. Thanks in advance.

is that the harbor freight brand, or is that only chicago electric?
 
I've never run a palm DA, only the ones with handles. How controllable are they? Are they really one hand tools?
 
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