Dual Master Cylinder brake lines?

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porksoda

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Hi guys!
We are going to install disc brakes on the front of my dart in the near future. I want to upgrade to a dual reservoir master cylinder.
I am wondering what I should do for the brake lines?
The car has a single reservoir master cylinder now. So a little confused what I will do since I have only 1 brake line to the master cylinder.
I have read where people are putting master cylinders from 70-74 but not really sure what to pick.
Will the lines have to be made or can I just go to the part store to buy some?
Also I do know I need a proportioning valve from what I have read.
Please not guy I do have a 1966 model.
Thanks for all the help in advance!
 
You will need to get a disc brake proportioning valve, as discs do most of the work on a drum/ disc combo. As for master cylinder as long as it has the right mount to your firewall you should be good. I think there are just 2 and 4 bolt versions. Are we talking manual or power brakes here?
 
It's a metering valve, 70 will work. Buy a bender, and a quality flaring tool. You will be custom-making brake lines.
 
Parts store. The new dual master should come with the residual valve in it, if you buy one for dics.
 
Just a thought; look on-line, chilton, etc. See where the metering block was installed on 70 and above. It sub-frame has the threaded hole, and a hole for the tang- good to go .Buy 70 to 73 block, and the brake lines. think Napa carries them all. Make sure tou keep the calipers on correct side=bleeder at the top.

And while bleeding; never let the pedal get pushed down more than half-way.
 
I did this on my 65 Dart. Lookup my post. Many other posts on this w/ PN's, so use search. Summary (for you to research):

Use existing distribution block for fronts, plug rear port. Use 1/4M-3/16F adapter for port from MC.

New rear tube from MC to in-line coupler to rear tubing.

Adjustable proportioning valve ($25) in series w/ rear line near MC is best.

Don't use residual valve on front disks tube. Don't even need with drums if wheel cyls have "new" style springs ("new" since ~1975).
 
Hey guys! Thanks for all the information!

I wonder if I did something good or maybe just wasted my time. You guys tell me.

Went to the local scrap yard today and found a 1970 Plymouth Valiant. Checked it out and it has a dual master cylinder. I asked the workers how much if I pull off the lines. The guys tells me if I pull them off I'll only have to pay $5. So for about an hour I pulled them off. What do you guys think? Will they work for me? I'll post up pictures up in a min. I know I still need a proportioning valve but this could be a good start right?
 
Pictures of the lines I pulled off.

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Wow those lines look amazing considering they came from a scrap yard! All the stuff around here would be seized rock soild.
 
Wow those lines look amazing considering they came from a scrap yard! All the stuff around here would be seized rock soild.

I was very surprised that they came off with such ease. Nothing stripped out. I do live in the High Plains the cars here do not have rust to start with. I opened the glove box and found last registration which was like in 1986.

Here are pictures of the car(a few people have got to the car):

20121031_091546.jpg


20121031_091644.jpg


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I took this lol:

20121031_095819.jpg
 
Its sad. The car was a 1 owner car. I guess he parked it in a field and forgot about it lol. Kids messed with it and trashed it. Busted all windows, tire all interior up. Floors we're rusted out though.
 
nice score! make sure that you blow some air through them first try to clean as much of the old brake fluid out before you put new in
 
Did it on my 66 Valiant. Used the dual res aluminum m/c from Dr. Diff and a 71-73 Disc brake proportioning valve. Had to bend m/c and all front lines.

Stops 10x better though. Well worth the work involved.
 
those lines you got are perfect for what you need, i did the same thing on my Valiant and i have a set now for my Cuda.
 
Well, although it is here in cyberspace somewhere, heres what I did on the 66 Cuda...

Used all of the K-H components from a 67 Cuda donor car, including the distribution valve and secondary block. I ordered all my lines from "Fine Lines" for a 67 Cuda with manual disc brakes, and ordered a dual MC from S&H Brakes that is correct for a 69 Dart with manual disc, which my car now has!!

All of the lines were correctly matched for my 66 car, and both distribution blocks mounted in the factory location, as the car is already drilled for those in case it was ordered with disc, which was an option in 66!!

Mine was a complete bolt-in setup, no bending custom lines, and all factory equipment!! Hope this helps, Geof
 
Looks like you have this well figured out but i figured i would throw my $.02. I did the dual M/C conversion on my 66. I stayed drums though because all i wanted was a safer setup than the single m/c setup.

I used www.inlinetube.com and they actually sell the conversion kit with valve to replace the tee. As i recall the price was very reasonable and the shipping was fast. Lines bolted right up with zero issues. Couldnt be happier and will certainly use them again in the future.
 
It helped a little bit by getting those tubes and block. Slightly easier than adapting what is on your car.

Did the 70 donor have front drum brakes? If so, the junction block is just a distribution block w/ imbalance sensor, without the integral proprotioning valve. It looks like that, but search for photos on FABO. If I am right, you will need a separate proportioning valve in series with the rear brake tube and downstream of the imbalance block (if you will use the warning light).

If the donor car has front disks, go back right away and grab all the front disk parts including the spindles, since worth ~$200 used. I doubt it since a slant six. We could tell if the MC wasn't missing.
 
Anyone able to sorta draw up some sort of diagram so I can see how the lines go to the proportioning valve and to the distribution block? I just really have nothing to go off of.
 
I did a brake swap on my 65 Barracuda, but I had a 73 Dart parts car and a 73 340 dart sport. I swapped everything, spindles, disc brakes, distribution block. I picked up an aluminum 2 bolt dual mater cylinder and adapter plate from Dr. Diff. I even swapped the 8 1/4 rear with 3.23 gears and 340 leaf springs. Everything just bolted in. Now I have big bolt pattern and the car stops pretty decent.
 
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