Duel point/ Tech drive

[Mastif]

I just bought a 1969 dart GTS that has a Duel Point Tech Drive distributor in it, and I was wondering if this dizzy has a advance to it or is it just locked in?
I may decide to remove it and upgrade to something that would work better, but no more than I drive it, I may elect to just leave it. The Tech Drive workd great, and has a older Tech mounted on the Column and looks period correct for a old muscle car. The car runs great even at high RPM's. Car is a 340, 10.25-1 CR, small purple cam, LD 340 intake, 650 DP, Headers, 3.55 gears and a 4 speed.
Any thoughts?
Mark

 

[Cudafever]

If it runs good, leave it. but some day you will have to learn how to set the point gap and Dwell if your going to keep them.

Most just up grade, to a standard electronic ign.

 

[67Dart273]

Easy to find out, just "spring" the rotor and see if it moves and springs back. Even if it originally had an advance, someone might have locked it by various means. On most dist's you can see enough by looking through holes in the advance plate and rotating the dist. while looking with a penlight.

If this is an Autolight/ Prestolight factory deal, it probably has a ball top bearing. I once had one in a 440 and it was a 'ell of a good distributor.

 

[OldmanRick]

I assume you mean the cable driven style dist/tach. If it's in good shape, i'd keep it for a while. You could always ask around town for someone that does distributors and has a machine. My guy at Maryland Performance Center many years ago was top notch, and he used "Sun" equipment. A good operator can set points, change curves, check for wobble and generally check the overall condition to keep you running strong for years to come.

 

[Mastif]

yes it is a cable drive, and the car runs great. For the most part I really just love the old school look of this distributor and the tachometer. it really just depends on how much I find that I'm going to drive the car as to whether I will actually leave it or change to a newer style.

 

[Mattax]

Interesting and seems like a keeper. According to the Direct Connection Ignition Bulletin (printed as Chapter 19 in the Engine Speed Secrets), the only factory tach drive distributors were for the 440 and 426 cid engines. Therefore, my guess is that yours is a Hustle Stuff or Direct Connection predecessor to the magnetic pickup tach drive distributors.

If it's internally setup in the same manner as the later ones, then it has a very quick advance to roughly 1000 rpm, and then adds just a degree or so every 1000 rpm after that. This curve is hard to beat at high rpm.

If it was me, I'd map out the advance curve just as it is, on the engine, in the car. This is because because if it has that fast advance in it, you can't set timing the 'normal' way. So while its running sweet, measure it. Get a timing light, and write down the timing for idle and then the rpm for every degree or every two degrees as you rev the engine. (Use your hand or the idle speed adjustment screw to bring the rpms up). Then you'll know the curve, and also have a way to reset it to a known good baseline if you ever do remove the dizzy.

I've set single points, and they're not that big a deal. The dual points is reputed to be a pain to set, but since I haven't done it, I can't verify. There may be some extra dvice on setting the dual point dizzys in Chrysler's Master Technician Conference. There's an online archive of them at the www.imperialclub.org under factory literature. Basics would be any late 60's Chrysler shop manual. Again, while its running sweet, might want to measure the dwell and point gap for future reference.