garymopar
Well-Known Member
I am building a 68 barracuda. what is the best way to seal the rear trunk area from the front? this is a drag car. the fuel cell and battery are in the trunk area.
dumb question
- Thread starter garymopar
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Yup.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Yep X2. I don't have a NHRA rule book in front of me, but there is a gauge spec for the thickness if i recall.
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
.040 Aluminum Sheet. Put a bead roll in it all so it helps with the rattles.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
I believe NHRA is .024 steel and .032 aluminum.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
I like your idea Mad Dart. A little heavier gauge with a few lines on the side and a Pentastar in the middle...:thumblef:.
bad440
everything,all the time..
lol i used a dodge caravan hood and a toyota camry hood skin .i worked at a bodyshop,free metal the caravan hood bodylines matched right up with the seams on the outside of the back window......
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That is what the 2012 rulebook says
tubtar
Well-Known Member
I pulled the back seat out , trimmed .024 steel to fit and used silicone sealer where it is riveted to the stock cross bracing......if you cut out around the seat mounts , it pops right back in with no problems.
I used a GM product called seam sealer on the sides and bottom.
I think between the silicone and the seam sealer , the vibration noise should be minimal.
I mini tubbed the car , so there was a bit of trimming on the lower part of the seat too , but it looks pretty close to factory once it all got stuffed back in place.
Lay a thin bead of silicone on the cross bracing and let it set , then seal the edges once you get it riveted down.......... piece of cake.
I used a GM product called seam sealer on the sides and bottom.
I think between the silicone and the seam sealer , the vibration noise should be minimal.
I mini tubbed the car , so there was a bit of trimming on the lower part of the seat too , but it looks pretty close to factory once it all got stuffed back in place.
Lay a thin bead of silicone on the cross bracing and let it set , then seal the edges once you get it riveted down.......... piece of cake.
boosted
Life Needs Air
I am doing the opposite on my dart... Pulling the sheet metal out and putting the back seat back in..
tubtar
Well-Known Member
Maybe I should clarify......the seat pops right back in on top of the steel.
I had to trim some of the round wire frame for the lower portion of the seat since I mini tubbed the car , but it looks show room.
I am about to put the motor back in , so I can't say if there is a lot of vibration noise from it........but with a motor plate in front , a solid roller 405 " and the minimalist approach to exhaust , it is going to be noisy anyway.
The toughest part of the deal was sealing the package tray area......three speaker holes and a long slot required cardboard templates , cutting the steel to fit and tacking the large pieces in , riveting the cover for the slot and sealing them all.
With the window in , it got tight.
And I am not sure if a track inspector would even look up there , but it wasn't worth gambling that they wouldn't.
I had to trim some of the round wire frame for the lower portion of the seat since I mini tubbed the car , but it looks show room.
I am about to put the motor back in , so I can't say if there is a lot of vibration noise from it........but with a motor plate in front , a solid roller 405 " and the minimalist approach to exhaust , it is going to be noisy anyway.
The toughest part of the deal was sealing the package tray area......three speaker holes and a long slot required cardboard templates , cutting the steel to fit and tacking the large pieces in , riveting the cover for the slot and sealing them all.
With the window in , it got tight.
And I am not sure if a track inspector would even look up there , but it wasn't worth gambling that they wouldn't.
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