Duster 383 cooling issue

-
Jmcginnis89

Jmcginnis89

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2013
Messages
100
Reaction score
2
Location
Missouri
I have a 74 duster with a 383 60 over stroked. I am having cooling issues it has the 26in radiator with a 180 stat and a 165 stat relay serpentine setup with dual electric fans runs great and stays at 180 when parked but after driving for about 20 min it jumps to 220 and will not cool back off and wants to climb higher. any tips.
IMG_3100.jpg
IMG_3112.PNG
IMG_3032.PNG
 
What size fans? Are they pushing or pulling and are they wired to run the correct direction in the configuration they are used? Info on the engine tune is also needed as that can cause over heating. Stock water pump housing? What water pump? Was the block sonic checked to go over 0.060"?
 
dano said:
What size fans? Are they pushing or pulling and are they wired to run the correct direction in the configuration they are used? Info on the engine tune is also needed as that can cause over heating. Stock water pump housing? What water pump? Was the block sonic checked to go over 0.060"?
Click to expand...
Dual 12in fans from Engineered Cooling Products they are pullers and seem to pull very well Housing is Mopar Performance with after market pump with 180 stat and yes on the sonic check
 
Do you have hood to radiator seal installed? I’m looking at the pulley kit and to me that water pump pulley looks massive diameter wise compared to crank pulley. I had looked at kits for my Demon and every one of the aluminum pulley kits underdrive the accessories. I ended up going with oem style v belt pulleys. Cooling at idle vs down the road it could be restricted airflow thru the radiator. If you have a thermal temp gun measure inlet to outlet temps on the radiator. Also check radiator for cool spots. It’s possible to have cold spots if when it was assembled some tubes got blocked with epoxy if that’s what they used. If it starts to warm up and you idle does the temp come down? As stated earlier where’s the timing set to (tune).
 
moparraceman said:
motor running lean ? get a 4 core alum radiator from jegs friend had 440 running over 200 put the 4 core in runs between 170-185
Click to expand...
I had a small 2 core then a 4 core and now a large 2 core and is staying cooler longer with the larger 2 core and it’s not running lean
 
Dubob said:
Do you have hood to radiator seal installed? I’m looking at the pulley kit and to me that water pump pulley looks massive diameter wise compared to crank pulley. I had looked at kits for my Demon and every one of the aluminum pulley kits underdrive the accessories. I ended up going with oem style v belt pulleys. Cooling at idle vs down the road it could be restricted airflow thru the radiator. If you have a thermal temp gun measure inlet to outlet temps on the radiator. Also check radiator for cool spots. It’s possible to have cold spots if when it was assembled some tubes got blocked with epoxy if that’s what they used. If it starts to warm up and you idle does the temp come down? As stated earlier where’s the timing set to (tune).
Click to expand...
No hood to radiator seal. CFV said the pulleys were 1-1 ratio. I’ll check for cold spots In The am it is 110 out side rite now. but when I start it up temp rises to 180 then goes back down and then up to 180 and back down again before it starts climbing past 180 to 200 at idle. But when I put it under load and drive it climbs to 220+
 
Jmcginnis89 said:
No hood to radiator seal. CFV said the pulleys were 1-1 ratio. I’ll check for cold spots In The am it is 110 out side rite now. but when I start it up temp rises to 180 then goes back down and then up to 180 and back down again before it starts climbing past 180 to 200 at idle. But when I put it under load and drive it climbs to 220+
Click to expand...
Pulleys measure 6.5-6.5
 
Copper core plugs and what heat range? Timing settings and how much total and vacuum advance? Make sure you are running ported vacuum advance. Does it feel like it is running as strong as it should? I noticed the words stroked, how many cubes?
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Copper core plugs and what heat range? Timing settings and how much total and vacuum advance? Make sure you are running ported vacuum advance. Does it feel like it is running as strong as it should? I noticed the words stroked, how many cubes?
Click to expand...
Copper core don’t remember temp, timing is set at 12 degrees 32total and yes on vacuum. It is 488ci and no it felt like it ran stronger this winter then it does now I blew the trans and had it rebuilt and now that summer is here it is having the cooling issues.
 
oldkimmer said:
What compression is it. Give us more details. I would bump the timing up a few degree’s if it can handle it. Kim
Click to expand...
488 ci the only cheap part on the whole car is the water pump and thermostat it has
eagle crank
Eagle rods
Ross forged dished pistons
Child’s and Albert molly rings
Billet main caps
Melling oil pump
Moroso chrome pan
Crain 1.5 gold rockers and shaft
Mopar performance housing
Molly push rods
Crane timing chain and gear
906 heads ported and milled 025
New stainless 2.14 in and 1.74 ex valves
Comp double valve springs
Ics copper O ring head gasket
All arp bolts
Was balanced and blueprinted 9.5 compression with the 3-2 barrel carb set up but I’m running a 850 Holley
 
Do you have a good fan and clutch set-up? If so then try it out, I am not a fan of electric fans. Maybe as an aux pusher in traffic. With my 471 Duster, Champion large 2 core 7 blade with the short Hayden clutch 160 stat 35 degrees timing it runs 160 no matter what. Cheap T-stat? Get a USA made Stant from NAPA Before anything ...
 
My dad tried 2 electric fans with his 440 and it overheated. He removed them and when for a drive with no fans and the engine ran cooler. On went a flex fan and issues gone. This was with an aluminum 3 core Champion radiator. The fans were on one of those shrouds that mount the two fans and actually limits air flow. I blame the shroud design more than the fans.

You mention auto tans. Do you have a large cooler in front of the radiator for that? The stack of radiator and cooler could be making one of the fans almost useless as it can pull through the two restrictions.

Like George said, if you have a mechanical fan toss it on and see.
 
Just measured mine and from the face of the pulley where clutch mounts to the top seam of radiator is 2 1/2 inches. Figure about another 1/8 inch to the core and i have about 1/2 inch clearance. Tight yes but works with no shroud. We used to run a 3/8 mile dirt oval Camaro @ Fernley near Reno with 100 plus temps. Tried the electric fan no good went with a cheepo solid and ran it like that for years. With a spacer you could get some more clearance to your liking, remember those flex fans DO FLEX and quite a bit. My $$ is on the shortyclutch and a good 18 or 19 inch 7 blade.
 
Last edited:
Jmcginnis89 said:
I have a 74 duster with a 383 60 over stroked. I am having cooling issues it has the 26in radiator with a 180 stat and a 165 stat relay serpentine setup with dual electric fans runs great and stays at 180 when parked but after driving for about 20 min it jumps to 220 and will not cool back off and wants to climb higher. any tips. View attachment 1715377795 View attachment 1715377796 View attachment 1715377798
Click to expand...
I have the exact same issue. Been fighting it all summer. I have ECP radiator that I installed last year with a shroud and 17" flex fan. Ran 195-205 without a stat. My dual electric fans are spal 12" fans and cool great when stopped or driving slow and it will pull temp down from 220 to 205 when I stop. I drilled more 1" holes in the shroud for more air flow to no avail. Jones pulleys sold me a restrictor that mounts in the lower hose, but it did nothing for me. My wp pulley is 4.5" and crank pulley is 5.5", so i'm over driving water pump and it will not cool at speed. I have a pump gas 511 filled with hard block 3" from the deck. My Moroso WP and flex fan will cool good enough, so once I get to the track for a time on the car, the electric fans are coming off.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top