Duster Brake Combinbation/ Prop Valve

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moparspares

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My first job on my newly installed hoist was removing this valve. Was still a pain in the *** because of headers but a lot easier than lying on floor. Anyway after stripping the combo valve this is the damage i discovered on one of the pistons/valve?. It is butchered and obviously it has been jamming in the bore. Can you buy the replacement parts for these or is it a new Combo Valve. I had bought a seal kit from Muscle Car Research but didn't expect to find this.

Hoist.JPG


Piston combination valve.JPG
 
Man, that's a good Question! I know In-line tube used to stock the entire Prop Vavle. Hoping The more Experienced Members will have better info!
 
Don't know about their quality, but inline tube is selling them on eBay.
 
Have you tried to clean it up (brass wire wheel)

That looks like the desolved remnants of a seal / O ring.
 
Have you tried to clean it up (brass wire wheel)

That looks like the desolved remnants of a seal / O ring.


Granted some of it was however the brass is damaged and knurled over one one spot. I did have to apply heat when removing some of the flare fittings and maybe I contributed to its demise but nothing else in the unit is damaged.
 
Granted some of it was however the brass is damaged and knurled over one one spot
They are simple devices, I would chuck the spindle in a drill motor and take some 220 or so sand paper the the damaged spots. You don't have much to lose at this point.
 
DON'T buy brake parts (master cyls or brake proportioning valves) or gas tank parts on eBay. You'll be sorry. The $10-15 difference will end up haunting you. The cheaper price means Chinese ripoff.
Year One is more expensive, but the stuff is correct.
They sell a 3/8" fuel pickup unit that can replace your measely 5/16 OEM unit for easy horsepower pickup.
 
This has turned into a bigger job than I thought. My brother had an E body Combo valve (inline Tube) he had lying around for years but never used. It looked the same as my A body one except the bracket to hold it on. I modified the bracket and got it all put back together on my Duster. Well I thought I had it sorted until I filled with fluid and pressed the pedal. It pisses out fluid from the big plug on the bottom. Took that off and put a new rubber seal on it knitted it back up and it still leaks badly. I have stuffed around with this and cannot get it to stop leaking. Then today I noticed it is weeping out of one of the other front brake ports. Trying to tighten everything down around my headers which are extremely tight fit is a nightmare. Anyways I decided I am not going to Inline tube for another crack. I am going to buy the willwood adjustable 260-13190 which I see a few guys on here have upgraded to. Guys that have done this upgrade can you share your tips with me on how you did this. Did you run a small distribution block where the combo valve used to go on chassis then plumb down to that from the wilwood unit or make new brake lines that plumb right up to the willwood unit. Not sure which way to go.

wil-260-13190_fn_xl.jpg
 
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