Eagle crank rear main seal leak

Small Block Mopar Engine

  1. sammie

    sammie Well-Known Member

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    Anyone else run into a problem with rear seal leaking on a stroker eagle crank? I've tried two seals with same results! Hope I dont have to buy a different crank?
     
  2. superchargeddrt

    superchargeddrt Well-Known Member

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    Yes I have, I had my engine out three times trying to find the main seal leak. If you used ARP bolts on the main caps, you will have to clearance your oil pump because the ARP bolt heads are taller than the factory bolts. The pump will sit crooked and not seal and apparently it will blow oil directly at your main seal. I went through 3 frustrating installs of my engine, it even leaked on the dyno! A friend of mine noticed when we had it apart that the pump wasn't setting flush and the funny part is after this debacle I looked back at my engine build thread and found that somebody had warned me about that arrrrgh. Here's the link to my build,, check near the end for the oil leak issues.Hope that this helps.

    Well It Finally Happened
     
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    • superchargeddrt

      superchargeddrt Well-Known Member

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      By the way, my engine doesn't leak a drop of oil after installing the Superformance seal and clearancing the pump. The ground is completely dry under my car and quite honestly in the 40 years that I've owned the car it's never been completely dry there's always been something leaking lol
       
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      • sammie

        sammie Well-Known Member

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        I'll pass this in to my builder! I know we used arp bolts too!!
         
      • superchargeddrt

        superchargeddrt Well-Known Member

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        Good luck,
        Let us know what you find.
         
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        • Plymouth 65

          Plymouth 65 Floorable Deplorable

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          I used the ARP main studs and had the same issue with oil pump housing clearance. I ended up removing the stud, washer and nut. Just replaced it with the stock main bolt, problem solved. 65'
           
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          • CRUZE 418

            CRUZE 418 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            The bolt holes need to be opened up in your rear main cap, the studs body is larger than the stock main bolts. I caught this when torking my main caps. When I got to the rear main, it grabbed the crank. I knew that something was wrong, called Mike at B3 Racing and he knew right away what was wrong. Next, your oil leak, it's been said before, there needs to be a very thin film of silicone under the back and side edge of the main cap up to the main seal, and including the ends of the main seal. I cut the rubber tangs off the main seal edges after the mains were torked. Silicone those same areas up when you install the pan, front too. They say to lubricate the rubber ends on the pan so that they don't grab the timing cover and rear main cap when installing the pan, I use a little silicone for that. Also, go over your pan with a straight edge and make sure that the rails are flat, side to side and length ways. When I pulled my engine for the rear main leak, my pans rear corners were not flat. You can bench test it so to speak, if you have your engine out. Get your oil level up, and pick your engine up nose high and safely block it up, so that your oil flows back to that area. This is how I found my pan leak.
            Good Luck!
             
            Last edited: Mar 14, 2021
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            • Bewy

              Bewy Well-Known Member

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              I know some Eagle/Chinese cranks have quite pronounced serrations in the seal area. These can act like a file on rubber/viton type seal....& then leak. I have these serrations removed by a crank machinist.
               
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              • sammie

                sammie Well-Known Member

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                That's what i was thinking from the start! But I will look into the other recommendation motor is in the car now. But it's easy enough to drop the pan! It's in an e body! So plenty of room!
                 
              • flyfish

                flyfish C8H18+N2O = :-D

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                I might be a little envious here....I had a rear main leak 2 years ago on my new motor that I had JUST put in (first rear main seal leak I have ever had).... Since this was on my A-body I had to pull the engine to replace the seal (what a pain)...and of course I found said leak 1 week before my first race, lol. I still made the race, but I was not well rested, to say the least.
                 
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                • furrystump

                  furrystump Well-Known Member

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                  I have seen so many people go nuts chasing a rear main seal leak, that when I found a couple of drops on the ground if the car sits over night I made a diaper. Some pig mat and a sheet metal cover that holds it to the bottom of the bell housing held on by the dust cover bolts. Change it once a year and no issues.
                   
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                  • famous bob

                    famous bob mopar misfit

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                    We git a new b-m j convertor that knocked the bushing out in the first race one time on the old hemi belvedere , sent a freind to get some large kotex`s tied to the outer cover bolts , and changed her rag between rounds , everybody got a kick out of watching us . Probly thinking , ''those dumb bastards'' , untill we won that race ---------memories are made of things like these.
                     
                  • moper

                    moper FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    Use a rope seal. The hardware issue is with oil pump mounting - not leaks. Any crank that has the knurling at the seal area and is run on a lip type seal will leak eventually. Use the rope seal that it was designed to work with. Summit sells them.
                     
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                    • beanhead

                      beanhead Well-Known Member

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                      What did IQ52 always say? "You gotta be smarter than your _______"

                      its-going-to-eh2hed.jpg


                      Best thing you can do is test it before installing the engine, just in case.
                       
                    • sammie

                      sammie Well-Known Member

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                      Yes my builder just bought a high dollar smoke machine! So I'm waiting on him to get her with it and test it before we take it apart and after we hopefully fix it ! Then smoke it to confirm!
                       
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