Edelbrock TR1Y tunnel ram

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Fisho

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Just picked up this Edelbrock TR1Y tunnel ram with linkage. Grabbed it with a bunch of other parts, price was too good to pass up. I'm now thinking about trying to use this on a 360 for my Duster. Anyone have any experience with one of these on the street?

20170916_164735.jpg
 
Just picked up this Edelbrock TR1Y tunnel ram with linkage. Grabbed it with a bunch of other parts, price was too good to pass up. I'm now thinking about trying to use this on a 360 for my Duster. Anyone have any experience with one of these on the street?

View attachment 1715098194


Yes, luckily, you have the right top with it...or the best top.

It works great on the street. I was going to use mine but don't want to get a different hood. Make sure you get a cam ground for a TR and get carbs that are calibrated for a TR and it will be nice.
 
Yes, luckily, you have the right top with it...or the best top.

It works great on the street. I was going to use mine but don't want to get a different hood. Make sure you get a cam ground for a TR and get carbs that are calibrated for a TR and it will be nice.

My understanding so far is the smaller plenum with longer runners works best for a street application. I'm still looking into carbs, so much conflicting info out there. Once I get some more parts gathered I'll get that sorted.
 
store the 2X4 and put a mailbox on top and run a TB out the front. High RPM's can put the injector higher up in the intake tract.
 
My understanding so far is the smaller plenum with longer runners works best for a street application. I'm still looking into carbs, so much conflicting info out there. Once I get some more parts gathered I'll get that sorted.


I would say call BLP, Braswell or Dale Cubic for carbs. That's the top of heap with those guys.

Make sure you get TR specific carbs. They won't come off the shelf. The two biggest mistakes I see with TR's (I've been using them since 1984) is the wrong cam and carbs that aren't TR specific.

I always make the point with two carbs is that you double the needle and seat area, (which is good) double the bowl volume, double the jet are, double the bleed area double the emulsion and you don't double the airflow through the engine. That's why pulling a carb off the shelf and sticking them on a TR is a disaster...usually. The T-slot area doubles so they are fat at a cruise. The idle feed restriction doubles so the idle is rich.

The other thing is with the cam. You can use 5-8* LESS timing and close the LSA up 2-3* and run the same RPM as a single 4 but make more power and torque and torque everywhere.

A little time and money on carbs and cam will give big dividends on the dyno and in the car.
 
Thanks! That's a lot of good info. I'm building this thing in my head and slowly gathering parts. So far these are known factors.

-5.9 magnum longblock (pulled from junkyard, going to re ring and new bearings once I open it up)
-all necessary pieces to convert to la style front dress
-redrill heads for la intake. Quick valve job as needed, hopefully they're not cracked
-Edelbrock Tr1Y intake
-1 5/8" headers
-3" dual exhaust, glasspacks, turndowns ahead of axle
-904, planning on reverse manual valve body. Have access to 3000rpm converter for it if needed
-8 3/4" rear, planning on 4.10 with suregrip
-275/60 15 rear tire size

My current unknowns are cam, carbs, and ignition. Probably some other stuff.

Eventual upgrades would be

-Icon flat top pistons
-EQ 318b heads for use with LA intake

This whole build has to be as low buck as possible. Grown up responsibilities and 3 kids keeps play money to a minimum.
 
Thanks! That's a lot of good info. I'm building this thing in my head and slowly gathering parts. So far these are known factors.

-5.9 magnum longblock (pulled from junkyard, going to re ring and new bearings once I open it up)
-all necessary pieces to convert to la style front dress
-redrill heads for la intake. Quick valve job as needed, hopefully they're not cracked
-Edelbrock Tr1Y intake
-1 5/8" headers
-3" dual exhaust, glasspacks, turndowns ahead of axle
-904, planning on reverse manual valve body. Have access to 3000rpm converter for it if needed
-8 3/4" rear, planning on 4.10 with suregrip
-275/60 15 rear tire size

My current unknowns are cam, carbs, and ignition. Probably some other stuff.

Eventual upgrades would be

-Icon flat top pistons
-EQ 318b heads for use with LA intake

This whole build has to be as low buck as possible. Grown up responsibilities and 3 kids keeps play money to a minimum.

A Hyd. cam with a decent amount of duration will fit in very nicely as well with the wallet. Even a low [email protected] would work really well. (Though I'd go higher, but that's no secrect! LAMO!" ) Here is my on the quick suggestion;
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...roduct_Code=20-228-4&Category_Code=LACAMHFXHL
Later on, up the rocker ratio to a 1.6. IF money allows. I get the whole Dad, house, etc... package deal. It lives here as well.
Cam Spec page;
20-228-4 - Xtreme Hi-lift Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts

A pair of 600cfm Carter/Edelbrocks maybe a lot of cfm, but there cheap and easy to tune to what you'll have.
Pace has a ready to run MSD knock off. It's actually the same thing with a few parts of different materials inside. Johnny Pace told me there nearly identical. Mine works really well. I asked him about instructions. That's when he told me what I wrote above and to use there instructions because there the same inside.
 
A Hyd. cam with a decent amount of duration will fit in very nicely as well with the wallet. Even a low [email protected] would work really well. (Though I'd go higher, but that's no secrect! LAMO!" ) Here is my on the quick suggestion;
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...roduct_Code=20-228-4&Category_Code=LACAMHFXHL
Later on, up the rocker ratio to a 1.6. IF money allows. I get the whole Dad, house, etc... package deal. It lives here as well.
Cam Spec page;
20-228-4 - Xtreme Hi-lift Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts

A pair of 600cfm Carter/Edelbrocks maybe a lot of cfm, but there cheap and easy to tune to what you'll have.
Pace has a ready to run MSD knock off. It's actually the same thing with a few parts of different materials inside. Johnny Pace told me there nearly identical. Mine works really well. I asked him about instructions. That's when he told me what I wrote above and to use there instructions because there the same inside.

Right on, Thanks! Will that cam work with the roller lifters in the magnum or do I run that cam with flat hyd lifters in the magnum block?
 
A pair of 600cfm Carter/Edelbrocks maybe a lot of cfm, but there cheap and easy to tune to what you'll have.
I just so happened to pick up a pair of brand new Carter 600 carbs in a parts deal last weekend. They've been sitting on a shelf for a few years, but have never been run. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.
upload_2017-10-12_6-58-9.jpeg
 
Right on, Thanks! Will that cam work with the roller lifters in the magnum or do I run that cam with flat hyd lifters in the magnum block?
OH chit, sorry, that is not a roller cam. You didn't say you had a Magnum engine!
A Hyd. roller cam you could be looking at (from Comp cams as an example) would be ether a XR292 or a XR286. You can reuse the OE roller lifters;
The XR286
20-813-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts
The XR292
20-814-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts

Do so look around at other cam grinders. Take note at the cams RPM ranges and there listed suggested converter stall ratings and gear usage.
 
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