edelbrock vers mopar alluminum heads

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jimharvard

jimharvard

JimHarvard
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hey all you smart guys in FABO...

i'm finishing my 68 formula s and am building the "stock" 340 for it. do you guys have opinions on which heads are better/more hp - edelebrock's or the mopar alluminum ones? both have the same stats. i have two sets of x heads but want to save on weight. also, any predictions on hp/torque of my final motor with the alluminum heads, holley 750dp, air gap or "high rise" manifold, original 68 4 speed cam, roller rockers and of course underchassis headers.

thanks.
jim coster, pittsburgh, pa
 
To put it bluntly the W series rules all that said unless you're balls out racing a set of Eddys will be just fine (it what is on my 340). But if you want more than eddy and don't mind cast iron try the RHS head (will out flow x heads all day) or a set of W2. Hell the more I think about I might switch to W2 myself, just not sure yet.
 
The Eddys and the current MP aluminum units are identical from what I know, aside from the script milled on the ends. If your motor has the early 340 dome type pistons you may need the Eddy head with the open chamber for piston to head clearance. As with any heads have them checked out for guide clearance, lapped valve seats, replace the rubber seals with Viton material seals, spring pressure, ect.
As for a HP guess ...380
 
For a 340 with pistons out of the hole, buy a thicker head gasket to get piston to head clearance and run the closed chamber head 60779.
 
hi guys...

thanks for all the intel and suggestions. i've thought about putting a 408 in this car, however, a lot of folks don't think strokers are very good for a street car. i'm only wanting to build a mid-12 street car - not a racer. my first factory 4 speed cuda (in 1969) ran a 1/4 best of 12.29 with around 18k miles, factory 340, schaifer clutch, hurst "competition plus w/reverse lock out, 3.91 gear, edelbrock "high rise" manifold, holley 750 dp, open hooker "fender-well" headers and "street slicks." you could power-shift that car all night long at 6k. i'm basically recreating that car in the fish i currently own.

i will probably go with the edelbrock "power plus" package of heads and matching manifold and bolt a 750 holley to it. i have been unable to find anyone selling the original spec cam that came in the 68 4 speed car so i'm having one custom ground. i am going to add roller rockers. i won't be taking a sawz-all to the fender wells on my current car so i'll be going with hooker under chassis headers. these cars are worth too much now to start cutting up original fender wells. i've already installed the 3.91. i've been posting some of the resto pics here on FABO under my screen name "jimharvard." and the body work is being done "old school" with lead fixing the few small rust holes and the original "turbine bronze" being done in acrylac laquer. when done, this car will be a recreation of the formula s on the 1968 "new cars from Plymouth" sales brochure. as a final point, the car will also be an options nut dream. options it will have will be: 3.91 gear; delux black interior with console; 4 speed; power stearing; power disc brakes; rear window air blower defroster; hood turn signal indicators; AM/FM radio; and last but not least, the very rare (and yes pretty odd) red plastic wheel well liners. as a mid-life crisis project, i have built the barracuda i would have ordered if i had been some rich kid with a dad with more money than brains buying "his boy" a car for the high school prom.

i'll keep posting on FABO.

thanks again, and please continue to comment anything you like.

jim coster, pittsburgh, pa
 
The 340 w any aluminum head would be very nice street machine. But as for comments about strokers not street friendly, I find my stroker 408 very good on street. It has the low end torque all way up past 4500 rpm and peak hp at 5800 w medium grind cam. There is no bog or hesitation from lights (stop or tree). FWIW if you need a crank then go with stroker crank every time.
 
There are much better cams available than the one in that ede package.

The 68 4 speed cam is DINKY small.
 
The max lift on an eddy head is .575". I have eddy heads and the roller cam I'm using is @50 231/239 .535/.550 and this is in the 60779 closed chamber head.
 
the factory specs on the 68 340 4 speed cam were:

.445 inch lift on intake
.455 inch on exhaust
60 degrees of overlap
Intake duration – 284 degrees
Exhaust duration – 292 degrees


since i'm trying to recreate the car i had in 1971/72, i want the cam that came in that car from the factory. do any of you FABO racers see a problem with using this cam with the eddy heads?

again, your brains are appreciated.
jim coster, pittsburgh, pa
 
dont think mopar makes the 4 speed camshaft ...the make a replacement 340 cam...

P4452782AE


Mopar Performance P4452782AE Purple Shaft Cam & Lifter Kit Fits: 273/318/340/360
Purple Shaft Cam & Lifter Kit
Fits: 273/318/340/360
Adv. Duration: 268°/276°
Dur. @ .050'': 228°/235°
Lift: .429''/.444''
Centerline: 114°
Basic RPM: idle-5800 RPM
 
tony,

you are right, can't find a cam with the original OEM specs anywhere for a 68 4 speed 340. however, i did find a california shop that will custom grind a cam with those specs for me for $500. that's probably where i'm going to get it.

"jimharvard"
 
That replacement cam that mopar makes for 340's is not close IMO to the original 4 speed cam. Much bigger from a duration at .050 standpoint

manual cam, the 340 auto exhaust lobe on the intake and the 440 magnum exhaust lobe for the exhaust to end up with 276/284 .444/.453 - Duration at .050 was in the 212 int 220 exh range
 
Either head will work, and either head will need the same work in terms of having a good shop look them over. Personally I would prefer using the flat tops and a closed chamber to get what I want for compression. Using that cam - keep the static lower - no higher than 10:1.
Anyone that tells you a stroker is a race engine is not very experienced in them. They are, by design, lower rpm torque monsters - which is EXACTLY what a street car needs. If you are recreating something you had that's a special circumstance and i get it completely. But if you want a pump gas car that can run mid 12s with very mild cam - then build a 4" stroked 340. it will be far milder, and far faster, than any 340 you can run. The 4" stroked small block A body is THE street car in my opinion.
 
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