Electric defrost/heater ?

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I'm planning on rewiring and probably custom gauges to my Valiant this winter, thinking about deleting the factory heater never plan on driving in the winter but still could use a windshield defrost and maybe some heat for chilly night drives. Thinking is there some small 12v non gimmicky electric defrost/heaters probably around 500w ? Don't care if it's Diy build. Anyone done anything like that ?
 
I'm planning on rewiring and probably custom gauges to my Valiant this winter, thinking about deleting the factory heater never plan on driving in the winter but still could use a windshield defrost and maybe some heat for chilly night drives. Thinking is there some small 12v non gimmicky electric defrost/heaters probably around 500w ? Don't care if it's Diy build. Anyone done anything like that ?
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: You'll need batteries out of a Tesla.
 
Hopefully not :) it's just an idea right now.
And a bad one. It takes a lot of current for a heater like that. Current= Amps. You are limited to 12+ volts so you will need a lot of amps. Most toaster ribbon bathroom heaters use 1200-1500 watts @110 volts. Think about it.
 
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Looking at something like this (below) but hard to tell from the reviews cause their basing it on as a heater, I'm mainly looking for defrost (condensation) if it pumps out a little heat in a chilly night bonus.

1729978918026.png
 
Look at something like this (below) but hard to tell from the reviews cause their basing it on as a heater, I'm mainly looking for defrost (condensation) if it pumps out a little heat in a chilly night bonus.

View attachment 1716320213
Go for it and report back. The best thing that ever happened to defrost is turning the A/C compressor on and getting rid of the moisture. I'm out.
 
And a bad one. It takes a lot of current for a heater like that. Current= Amps. You are limited to 12+ volts so you will need a lot of amps. Most toaster ribbon bathroom heaters use 1200-1500 watts @110 volts. Think about it.
A 500w heater or amplifier should be the same thing to the electrical system ?
It will only be used now and then.
 
This looks like it would be more usable, 500w, just got to build a case with a blower motor.

1729979556687.png
 
A 500w heater or amplifier should be the same thing to the electrical system ?
It will only be used now and then.
500 watts divided by 12 volts =41.66 amps. A 500 watt heater is pretty anemic. Anything more overloads your electrical system.
 
Personally, you may be hard pressed to find a system that can beat the factory hot water defrost/heat. 2 cents
 
Not looking to heat the car just get rid of condensation when needed.

A factory heater seems to be 8,000w to heat the whole car up in a winter, shouldn't take all that much just to clear a little fog off the window once and a while.
 
What you have been told is right on. Resistive heat is very simple. Volts X amps is wattage. This will be like running the starter for as long as you are running the defroster. It will be hard on batteries and alternators. OEM window electric defrosters also draw a fair amount of juice, but they are as efficient as possible---right in the glass. What you are proposing is VERY inefficient, and I have no idea what heat loss you will have.

"In the old days" there were known as Studebaker defrosters. These were a small squirrel cage fan with a small heat exchanger ( core) on the side. This allowed it to warm up a little faster than the main heater.

There also exists LPG and gasoline heaters and defrosters, mostly used in aircraft. "South Wind" ( a division of Stewart Warner) was popular in 40 Fords. My Grampa had one, the engine needed to be running to supply vacuum which acted as the chimney/ vent. --draft. They were gasoline power, ignited by what amounts to a glow plug.
 
I’m gonna have a 1,000 w stereo 200-500 w more for a defrost ain’t gonna be that big of deal, at worst got to turn my stereo down while defrosting :)

Yes I understand I’m gonna have to upgrade the alternator.
 
I’m gonna have a 1,000 w stereo 200-500 w more for a defrost ain’t gonna be that big of deal, at worst got to turn my stereo down while defrosting :)

Yes I understand I’m gonna have to upgrade the alternator.
:rofl:
 
Yes I understand I’m gonna have to upgrade the alternator
And your wiring.

You will need MUCH bigger wires for all that load.


Green for your "defroster"

Red for your amp

Yellow for your charging cir.

The car is wired mostly with 18 gauge and a few 12s


Screenshot_20241026-234231.png
 
Is that available on Amazon?

I would like to play with one for the exact same thing since I don't have a heat or defrost on my 63 Fury.

Tom
Yes it was, I like to find a more square/cubed version and install two, one under each dash vent with a small fan on each
 
I think one heater and some flexible tubing would do the job. Air flow with just a touch of heat will defrost quickly.

Tom
Think can mount it where the old dash speaker was and have it blow that and the two vents.
 
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