Electrical ?

[mike brodnicki]

Hi , my post might be a bit long. I just put in a new 360 in my 73 Duster. I had the engine builder install a Ready To Run MSD distributor also a MSD blaster 2 coil. They broke in the cam, also did a dyno test. So I have it installed the motor will only run while the key is in the run position. Now with the ready to run distributor I don't need the ballast resister. I hooked it two different ways, according to the directions from MSD. So I really could use some help and any ideas are appreciated . Thanks Mike

 

[FISHYPETE]

Welcome, we need pics,should post your question in the electrical section

 

[6PakBee]

Hi , my post might be a bit long. I just put in a new 360 in my 73 Duster. I had the engine builder install a Ready To Run MSD distributor also a MSD blaster 2 coil. They broke in the cam, also did a dyno test. So I have it installed the motor will only run while the key is in the run position. Now with the ready to run distributor I don't need the ballast resister. I hooked it two different ways, according to the directions from MSD. So I really could use some help and any ideas are appreciated . Thanks Mike

The motor will only run while the key is in the run position? Isn't that the way it should work?

 

[67Dart273]

You most likely made "the mistake" (that so many do). There are TWO wires from the key, going to the ballast resistor

The "run" wire (IGN1) is normally dark blue and feeds one side, and somewhere in the harness, that one branches off to feed the voltage regulator, and depending on the year, other stuff, like, electric choke if used

The other wire from the key (IGN2) is normally brown and feeds the COIL+ side of the ballast.

The "run" wire GOES DEAD during starting. The purpose of the brown IGN2 is to bypass the ballast and provide hot full battery power to the coil during cranking. So when eliminating the ballast you must connect all wires together on a 2 post ballast

On a 4 post ballast, one end is already jumpered factory and one side feeds back to the ECU. That is the only wire you can eliminate from that pair of connectors.

If you do not have, you need to go to MyMopar and download the 73 service manual, and while there, get the two page aftermarket diagram. Those are not as detailed, nor complete, but can be easier to follow

 

[Car Nut]

 

[MoparLeo]

I would contact the people that you paid to install it. Make sense? They will know what they installed and how they did it.