Electronic ign/ This is what i got

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Nite Moves

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Hello all. I have a pic of what i have in regards to elect./ign. I have a new starter relay and horn relay and a 2 prong ballast and a 4 prong ballast not in pis. Am i missing anything? Thanks everyone. Were do you place your stuff.IE: fire wall?
 

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If the box is a 4 pin (you cannot tell by counting) you can use EITHER a 2 or 4 terminal ballast

If the box is a 5 pin you MUST use a 4 terminal ballast.

The previous folks who converted my 67 mounted the box just to the side of the wiper motor. If you have A/C you can't do that. I'd mount the box over on the drivers fender apron, and put the resistor/ regulator back where they came from.

Make ABSOLUTELY sure you scrape the paint clean on both boxes, and use star washers for a good ground. Make SURE you have a sizeable ground from the block to the body. I used a no4 starter cable (eye to eye) about a foot long, on the rear driver's head unused bolt holes on rear of head, over to one of the master cylinder bolts.
 
looks complete. dont forget, if you upgrade to electronic ignition, you must upgrade your voltage regulator and alternator. the voltage pulses from the old style of regulator will quickly kill the electronics in the newer ignition.
wire them like this:
 

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l...................., you must upgrade your voltage regulator and alternator. ..........................:


Uh, no.......Look at the photo he posted. The "other" little box is an electronic regulator for the 69/ earlier alternator. Actually, if you ground one field terminal, you can use it on a 70/ later system as well.
 
Uh, no.......Look at the photo he posted. The "other" little box is an electronic regulator for the 69/ earlier alternator. Actually, if you ground one field terminal, you can use it on a 70/ later system as well.
dont know if that is an electronic regulator or not, it is actualy a "constant output regulator,for drag racing only" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690732/
 
dont know if that is an electronic regulator or not, it is actualy a "constant output regulator,for drag racing only" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690732/

I'm tellin' you that it is.....electronic. I don't know why they classify the thing that way. ALL "voltage regulators" are supposed to be "constant output." That is what a voltage regulator DOES--regulates the voltage to a constant.

You DO however, have to make sure that you GROUND the thing, as the case is not bared anywhere for a ground. Numerous people on the www run these on the street.

That regulator is a carbon -appearing copy of one that NAPA/ Echlin sells, a VR-1001, and at least similar to a Standard / Blue Streak VR-128
 
The single field setup is like a on and off switch. Works great if you don't do a lot of idleing.
 
The single field setup is like a on and off switch. Works great if you don't do a lot of idleing.

Actually, if you use a replacement (aftermarket) solid state regulator, it COULD work just as well as an isolated field (they are NOT single or dual field)

The real difference between the older "round back" and the newer "square back" is that their low RPM output is a little better.

What I mean is, if you take a late model squareback, and ground one of the fields, and then use one of the regulators posted above, it should work just as well as the 70/ later regulator.
 
keep in mind that the racing only voltage is "constant output", meaning it will provide charging current to your battery weather it needs it or not. it will likely overcharge your battery, killing it.
 
The "racing only", or "constant output" regulators are as they state "for racing purposes only". Most race cars have a switch to cut the charging system off during runs, to utilize every bit of HP. When the system is put back to use in the shutdown and on the return road, it doesn't take as long to recharge the battery/batteries between rounds. These regulators will, as mentioned earlier, cook the battery in your street applications.

Bill S.
 
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