Engine building questions?????

[blackace]

Hey guys I have a 318 that am building. I have it just about done. The distributer, intake, carb and valve covers need to be installed. I have a few question for your seasoned builders.

I am worried about rust build up in the cylinders and I have the heads on. Is spraying WD40 in the cylinders Ok and would it be enough to deter rust?

How do I find the exact TDC of cylinder 1 to install the distributer.

I installed the cam about a month and a half ago. Now all the cam lube is just about off. Should I add more cam lube? I still need to work on the trans before I can reinstall the motor.

What's the proper breakin procedure for a new cam? What oil weights are recommended?

 

['73red-duster]

I would not use WD-40. It draws moisture.

 

[C130 Chief]

I hope you oiled the sh*t out of the pistons and rings during assembly. That should be enough to keep the bores from rusting (they dont rust too bad in the car you drive do they?) Install a set of plugs, tape over the ports, and store the engine in a bag until you install it. If you are storing it outdoors or are really paranoid, you can get some slilca gel at a hobby shop (used for drying flowers) and put a pouch of that in the engine bag.

As for finding TDC, install the dist before the left valve cover goes on. OR, if you are going to wait until the engine is in the car before you install the dist, you can aalways put your finger in the sparkplug hole and bump the engine over withthe starter. It will be pretty obvious when you are the compression stroke.

As for the cam lube, where did it go? As long as there is a good film on the lobes and the lifter faces (it will get smeared pretty thin if you have turned the engine over by hand a couple times) you should be fine.

As for break-in, follow the cam manufacturers recommended procedure. As a rule, you want to keep the engine at a high idle (2000 rpm) for the first 20 mins of running, and avoid extended cranking. Use a non-synthetic oil with some zinc in it. I like Castrol GTX 10w30, some guys like the diesel oils. I think 15w40 is too heavy for a break-in oil, especially if you will be starting outside in the winter, but thats just me.

 

[D-mailman]

Paranoid ?? According to your definition...I guess I am too. Remember..."I am the kind of guy"

 

[388dart]

[QUOTE='73red-duster]I would not use WD-40. It draws moisture.[/QUOTE]

Oddly enough it was developed by an American Scientist to replace moisture.

 

[moper]

If you are not installing and firing it right away, I would leave the intake and rockershafts off. WD40 is fine for cylinders..So is ATF and/or engine oil. The cam lube needs to be on the cam. If you leave it and it's a liquid based product, it will all run off in a day or two. So I would leave it off, when the engine will be fired quickly, finish the lube deal, stick the intake on, and fire it. Also, Castrol does not have the zink anymore. If the gold seal on it say "economy/emmissions" on it som,ewhere (I forget the API rating right now) then it's useless for old cams. You can also add a bottle of Comp's cam break in additive to any oil and it will help. I run fleet grade deisel oil. Car Quest 15-40 plus a bottle of the additive to break in cams. Then just the fleet oil. Rotella is the same idea.

 

[Dusterb318]

Rotella won't work for the flat cams anymore either....it has the package reduced now to meet the '07 diesel truck emissions.....your gonna have to run a "race" type oil that doesn't have to pass EPA emission standards. As for the cylinders rusting...go to your local NAPA and get a can of fogging oil......it is used for storing engines over the winter....pull the plugs spray some in the cylinder and put the plug back in.

 

[blackace]

Hey guys sorry for the late reply and thanks for the info

I hope you oiled the sh*t out of the pistons and rings during assembly. That should be enough to keep the bores from rusting (they dont rust too bad in the car you drive do they?)

No but I drive that car everyday and the engine hasn't been sitting on the stand partially complete since the summer time.

As for the cam lube, where did it go?

I purchased Comp Cams lube and after installing the cam and it sitting, all the cam lube dripped into the oil pan.

 

[moper]

Black, make sure the engine fires right away, and that all the support systems will function properly (radiator big enough and full, exh set up to run quietly for a while, battery and/or alternator ready to go, fuel system primed, leak free, and full. The lube mixes with the oil. It wont stay on the cam during assembly unless it's a paste. I hear some guys using ARP bolt lube, I havent tried that. But I can see what hamr it would do as long as the break in oil is drained shortlay after the 20 minute run time. The moly paste will fill the oil filter media. The cam lobes are only oiled by run off from the top end, and primarily by splash/windage from the crank. So it has to run right away, and the the rpms need to stay up above about 1800.