Engine fasteners?

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batoven

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Greetings all,

I pick up a early 1971 340 bare block for my Dart. Block came with nothing other than the main caps and bolts. I need all the bolts/nuts etc. to assemble it when the time comes. I've read several threads here about the ARP kits, and some of the problems associated with them. Does anyone have a recommendation on where to get (other than the ARP's) the correct fastener kits? I don't mind piecing stuff together, but I have to know where to start i.e. what size fastener/grade go where. If I have to get the ARP stuff, I want to make sure I'm getting the correct fasteners the first time and only in the number I need. Thanks!
 
I think the ARP fasteners are about as good as you will ever find. They're used by all the top engine builders, and in every type of racing from NASCAR to NHRA. Their website lists kits for everything you'll need. I've had good luck with calling them for advice on odd fasteners from time to time as well.
Garry
 
ARP makes fine products but here is the problem I found when I had a similar issue you are in. Do I really want to drop 500 bucks on bolts to rebuild this motor? Hell no. Go ARP where it counts. Rod caps , main caps, heads, crank and cam. You dont need 80k PSI bolts to hold your valve covers and oil pans on. Look around there are other companies that make these at a percentage of what ARP charges. Do some Google searching and you will come across them. I wish I could point your to the exact location because I purchased a set like this but its been 5 yrs ago and I dont recall where it came from.
 
I would look around and find some factory bolts and be done. Unless you are building a bunch of power or RPM, the stock bolts are pretty much fool proof.
 
Good rod bolts are a decent choice. The rest of the bolts, factory stuff works great.

Unless you want something that looks cleaner on the intake, etc., then go ahead and buy those specific bolts. Even some of those intake kits don't work on all intakes.
 
Kits.... PM whitepunkonnitro here..... I bet he can fix you up with all sorts of stock fasteners for things like timing covers and pans and valve covers and cam retainers, etc. (Even used head bolts if you are comfortable with those.) The head bolts is one place I would consider an ARP set as you can't know 100% for sure if used stock ones have any stretch or not.

What are you doing for rods? If picking up stock ones and having them re-conditioned and adding ARP bolts is your thought, then look into some SCAT rods; all new, all the rods studs/nuts, and all balanced rod-to-rod and end-to-end with the numbers on the box. Will probably cost < $100 more than a set of stock rods re-conditioned with ARP bolts and will be balanced as noted.
 
McMaster-Carr has grade 9 bolts, 180,000 psi and are a lot cheaper than arp for certain app, but I always use ARP for rods, I have used grade 9 for mains and head bolts and other misc things.
 
I've had good luck raiding the fasteners section at Home Depot, Ace Hardware etc. Most of the bolts on these engines besides high-stress parts like rods, main caps and heads use common thread pitches and sizes. Just in case you don't decide to go with a full hardware kit with your build.
 
arp or new grade 8 for the rotating assembly.Good used are o.k,but maybe new for the rod and head bolts.
everything else ,grade 5 should be fine
 
Thanks for all the info everyone. I'm not questioning the quality of ARP products, as I've used them plenty of times in other builds. I just want to get what I need the first time around since I don't have any fasteners now. I already have a set of rods ready to go with new ARP bolts that have been resized. I'm going to order ARP main and head bolts, and hit up whitepunk and see what he has for the rest. Thanks again all!
 
BTW, if you end up with Edelbrock Performer heads they use 2 of the oddball long head bolts on each side instead of the 1 on each side with the stock LA heads. New Edelbrock heads come with an extra bolt in each box for this purpose so you can get by with that and a standard ARP head bolt set. But, to be safe with the Edelbrock Performers, you can order a different SBM head bolt set that has 2 of these special bolts for each side. (Hope this makes sense.)
 
nm9stheham said:
BTW, if you end up with Edelbrock Performer heads they use 2 of the oddball long head bolts on each side instead of the 1 on each side with the stock LA heads. New Edelbrock heads come with an extra bolt in each box for this purpose so you can get by with that and a standard ARP head bolt set. But, to be safe with the Edelbrock Performers, you can order a different SBM head bolt set that has 2 of these special bolts for each side. (Hope this makes sense.)
Click to expand...

It makes total sense, but I'm staying with OEM J heads. Never was a fan of Eddy's heads. Gotta do to much to them before putting them on for the price they cost.
 
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nm9stheham said:
BTW, if you end up with Edelbrock Performer heads they use 2 of the oddball long head bolts on each side instead of the 1 on each side with the stock LA heads. New Edelbrock heads come with an extra bolt in each box for this purpose so you can get by with that and a standard ARP head bolt set. But, to be safe with the Edelbrock Performers, you can order a different SBM head bolt set that has 2 of these special bolts for each side. (Hope this makes sense.)
Click to expand...


The Edelbrocks use the W-2 bolt lengths.
 
ARP for all the high stress things. Head studs,main studs, rod bolts. Then search the local ad's for a complete 318 which you can get almost for what you will pay buying seperate fasteners ,valve covers,timing cover, oil pan. Then get a bench top grinder with wire wheel and have at it.
 
You may want to replace the valve cover bolts with studs
 
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