Engine Oil Pump Clearance

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6

69Chrgr

Charger/Cuda
Joined
Jan 29, 2007
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Location
Midlothian, Texas
Well, I tried to install my HV oil pump from Indy and the pump hits the bolt on the #5. Called Indy(Where I've purchased about $4,000.00 worth of merchandise) and they condescendinly said that I need to be more engenuitive when building a stroker. They said to grind the clearance on the pump so it will clear the bolt on the #5. I asked them if this would reduce the integrity of the pump and he said I need to use common sense when doing so. They act like it's a pain the a$$ to have to answer any questions. I'll be going to Hughes from now on.
 
Yep I had to do the same thing. On these HV pumps they kinda have a ump on them. You can take a die grinder and smooth it out just enought to clear. Should be OK. I know a lot of us have to do that with these pumps, or if we are using ARP bolts or studs.
 
Granted the person you spoke with may not have had the best communication skills, he was basically right. When I installed my Mellings pump and used ARP main studs I had the same problem: The stud contacted the pump and you couldn't get a nut on. I had to machine the bearing saddle and spot-face the bottom of the pump, along with a shorter stud, to make it all work. This subject keeps popping up and I keep promising to post pictures of my lower end since the engine is still out and the pan is off.

Crappy attitude, but correct advice.
 
I had similer experiences with Indy on some small block rods that I bought that were machined wrong. Last year at Vegas I told Flagle, one of the owners, how I felt about his customer service. I also went to Hughes and will continue to buy from them. When I built my 360, as I recall I could not use studs on the #5 main cap because of pump interference. I have seen several posts here with the same problems, and I thought arp was supposed to address it.
 
No, ARP doesnt care really. Teh "best option" is the ARP stud kit, and the 12pt nut package that sells seperately. I dont like grinding oi pump bodys. I run the 12 pt nuts, and trim the stud down so the pump clears with no gasket, and the stud is long enough to just catch all the threads with the washer. Teh stud should be measured during the mock up assembly. Indy are a bunch of incompetants in 90% of the dealings you'll have with them. Hughes is great, right up until you try to question their judgement or procedures.
 
I had the same problem with my oil pump. I had to mill off a few thousandths and that took care of it.
 
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the advice. Called Hughes and they said take the washer out from under the ARP Bolt, and just grind if I have to a little away at the bolt. I might also do it to the pump if I have to.
 
I went with a 12 point as Moper said. I had to just barely grind the pump not much but on mine I was able to leave the washer in.

I like to leave it in if you can. I think you get more even torque...

just my 2 cents...
 
Don't know if it will make much diff but I'd be tempted to write them a letter about the crappy attitude they had if you spent that much money with them. Let them know Hughes will be happy to take your next $4,000
 
fishy68 said:
write them a letter about the crappy attitude they had if you spent that much money with them. Let them know Hughes will be happy to take your next $4,000
Click to expand...


Comments of that sort to Indy mean absolutely nothing to them. Hence the guys that are really anti-Indy. And Hughes gets the same way at times.
 
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