Engine test stand - Trans hookup?

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Kent mosby

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I plan to do a cam break-in and leak check on an engine stand. With the trans hooked up and in neutral, would it be best to have a trans cooler hooked up or is it superfluous at that time?

Are there any tests that can or should be done on the transmission on an engine test stand? This will be a 512 stroker and 727 trans. I have not opened the trans yet to rebuild, but I will be putting a trans-go tf-2 kit in it.
 
Kent mosby said:
I plan to do a cam break-in and leak check on an engine stand. With the trans hooked up and in neutral, would it be best to have a trans cooler hooked up or is it superfluous at that time?

Are there any tests that can or should be done on the transmission on an engine test stand? This will be a 512 stroker and 727 trans. I have not opened the trans yet to rebuild, but I will be putting a trans-go tf-2 kit in it.
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No load = no heat, so a cooler isn't needed.
Even though the trans will be in neutral it will still need fluid to pump so it doesn't destroy the pump, bushings needle bearings, thrust washers from running dry (you get the idea)

The only possible thing you could check with no load is fluid flow.
Also note that to do what you asked you can just route one cooler line to the other with a 5/16 section of EFI fuel line.
You will also need a yoke or a plug for the output end of the trans so it doesn't throw fluid out the tail shaft.

Since you cant really do anything with the trans anyway, maybe see if you can come up with an old core trans you can cut the bell housing off and mount the starter, or use a clutch type bell housing for your engine stand/starter situation.
That sure would simplify things for you, since you cant really test a trans with no load on it anyway.
 
I'm looking but, I thought I saw a post about a RB on a stand with no trans. I know the OP has one. I'm going to do the same here after Christmas.
 
Just run a bellhousing and a flywheel.
 
Kent mosby said:
I would love to borrow one for the test. I just don't want to buy one for it
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As is the case with most people. I am in for a penny in for a pound. When I need to do something I just do it. The bellhousing and flywheel would be considered tools. I never skimp on tools. This is one of those instances where you are either in the hobby or not, IMO. Not the way most see it, I know, but I do.
 
I just took the transmission lines and ran a rubber hose from one line to the other right at the transmission. Worked just fine, I used a big block short shaft truck transmission. I just used a block of 4x4 wood to support it at the rear.
 
I might be able to round up a flywheel and bell for you.
Where you located in Idaho ?
 
If you can fabricate, or are brave, you don't even need a bell. You can get a flywheel and build a starter mount. As ^^ said^^ where are you? I'm in Coeur d Alene. I'm a cheap redneck, sometimes I do a test fire up with just the engine plate off the scattershield
 
I am in Post Falls, Id. Next to Coeur d'Alene. That would be great if you could but Boise is a long trip. If the 727 works, I am ok with that. Thanks
 
Could I use a flywheel and mount the 727 without the torque converter and bolt up the starter to the 727 case? @67Dart273 I moved to Post Falls 14 years ago and I work in Coeur d'Alene
 
I'm saying do not start an engine on an engine stand . #1 reason : it's not safe . #2 reason : in order to break in a cam , the engine must be above 2500 rpm for at least 20 minutes and vary speeds and not idle . This will knock over an engine stand . #3 reason: its not safe , especially a 512 Build an engine test stand with an empty 727 case and a torque converter with a ring gear . You can sell the test stand afterwards if you want . remember your life is in your hands .
 
383Scampman said:
I'm saying do not start an engine on an engine stand . #1 reason : it's not safe . #2 reason : in order to break in a cam , the engine must be above 2500 rpm for at least 20 minutes and vary speeds and not idle . This will knock over an engine stand . #3 reason: its not safe , especially a 512 Build an engine test stand with an empty 727 case and a torque converter with a ring gear . You can sell the test stand afterwards if you want . remember your life is in your hands .
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Brings up the point of terminology; by "engine stand" are you referring to the kind designed to roll the engine over to be tore apart and worked on or are you referring to a "engine run stand"? If you are thinking of trying to start the engine on a rotating engine stand, you need to lose that thought for a number of reasons not the least of which is that you cannot attaching a bell housing (needed to attach a starter). If you are talking about a run stand then by all means go for it. You can certainly make a stand or buy a stand. It doesnt have to be complicated; I've seen many engines at swap meets on home made run stands being fired up to show prospective buyers that they run. One of the simplest I have ever seen was a triangular cradle that bolted to each mounter mount and held the engine level, the engine has a AT trans on it and the owner could start it right up.
 
It is an engine run stand designed for this, not an engine stand that you use to assemble an engine. It has gauges for rpm, temp, oil pressure and an ignition switch.

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Kent mosby said:
It is an engine run stand designed for this, not an engine stand that you use to assemble an engine. It has gauges for rpm, temp, oil pressure and an ignition switch.
This is the one I use as well. The brand is larrin and if I remember correctly was less than $150 delivered to my door. Had to make a set of mopar mounting arms as they are made for Chevy engines. But a few minutes and a couple welds I made ones that attached right to the existing system.

View attachment 1715251706
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