ER-16 bearing doesn't fit on steering shaft

[DrCharles]

I've cut my column jacket back to the firewall (originally a PS car. Now have manual box and Flaming River U-joint/extension). I bought the ER-16 bearing that is supposed to work for the lower shaft support... but it won't go on the shaft!

After cleaning up all the crud and rust, and polishing with emery paper, the shaft is 1.005" in diameter. I couldn't even drive the new bearing onto it! So I spent considerable time trying to enlarge the bearing ID with a brake cylinder hone in my drill press. I also tried wrapping emery paper around the stones and running that in and out for a while. I didn't measure the ID before I started, but it's now 1.0025 and still won't go on

Sanding down the shaft instead isn't a good option because it's hard to reach the place where the bearing will sit (just inside the jacket). I really don't want to take the column apart again. And it does not have to be an interference fit because there are two set screws on the bearing to secure it to the shaft.

I'm considering taking it to a machine shop. What tool might they use to enlarge it to 1.006 for a slip fit?

 

[dodge71demon]

you could always try hot and froze

 

[67/6barracuda]

I just got done doing mine is yours a column shift car. I had to sand the shaft to get all rust off off the shaft.

 

[mopowers]

Pull the shaft and go to town with some sand paper. It'll go on.

 

[DrCharles]

Thanks for the ideas. Can't do much heating... this is a sealed bearing with rubber seals. Doubt I'd get the required expansion with any reasonable temperature (200F or less) - this part is only an inch across.

My car WAS a column shift, but all that stuff (plastic bushings, shift tube, linkage) is removed...

I know I can make the shaft smaller, but I would rather not disassemble the column again. Once (to shorten it, and remove the "PRND21" and shifter nub from the collar) was enough ;)

 

[my68barracuda]

Go after the ID of the inner bearing bore with something more aggressive, like a carbide burr. Just keep a steady rotary motion so you don’t flat spot it.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

You don't need a bearing on the lower column. They stopped that in 1968 or 1969. They found that is binds the steering with three bearings. They take a foam seal at the bottom to keep engine compartment air out no bearing . Waist of time and money. One at the wheel and one in the box. Thats it.

 

[RedFish]

The bearing race is a hardened high carbon steel. Changing the shaft O.D. would be a lot easier.
Facory did find they could omit the lower bearing but...
The OEM box coupling doesn't allow as much movement as a universal joint. Without the lower bearing and with a universal joint the shaft could move around much more. Would that shorten the life of the pizzy little upper bearing... maybe.

 

[DrCharles]

A guy on Moparts suggested that I try a sanding roll and Dremel.
He said he didn't believe it until he made a couple of 8-3/4" setup bearings that way in minutes.
I wouldn't have believed it either... so I tried it

A couple minutes back and forth, round and round with a 1/2" sanding roll and opened it right up to 1.006... It went on the shaft like butter!

Now on to the next issue. I may need to modify my clutch pedal attachment for the hydraulic master... another "while I'm in there", since access is easier without the steering column and bracket in the way

 

[my68barracuda]

You don't need a bearing on the lower column. They stopped that in 1968 or 1969. They found that is binds the steering with three bearings. They take a foam seal at the bottom to keep engine compartment air out no bearing . Waist of time and money. One at the wheel and one in the box. Thats it.

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interesting my 68 Barracuda had the lower bearing, although my 68 is an early one. does not have shoulder belts either.

 

[DrCharles]

Got it all back together. Doesn't feel like it's binding anywhere, although it takes so much force to turn the steering wheel sitting still (16:1) it'd be hard to tell in the garage ;)

Today I learned: the snap ring on the outside of the bearing doesn't fit through the two-bolt seal plate on the firewall. Removed the ring, put the plate and seal on. I also learned: the snap ring doesn't quite fit through the firewall hole either! Removed it again, slid the column through the hole, then had a lot of fun getting the snap ring seated again beneath the master cylinder... I suppose I could omit it, since the set screws on the inner race keep the bearing located anyway.