Everyone's opinion for rear end to go with?

8 3/4 or Dana 6

  • 8 3/4

    Votes: 4 14.8%

  • Dana 60

    Votes: 23 85.2%
  • Total voters
    27
-
gagembassett

gagembassett

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2021
Messages
500
Reaction score
411
Location
Iowa
So I recently created a thread asking if anyone had made a full floater Dana 60 that had a 5x4.5 bolt pattern and I got to talking with several members about which rear end to use in my long bed 83 D150. The plan is told build a 600 horsepower W9 headed 360 that turns around 7,000-7,500 rpm with a Brewers-built A833 and a clutch tamer to help the trans hold up as per the recommendation of Dan Brewer. Long ago my plan for the rear axle was to run an 8 3/4 for easier gear changes but a few members were worried that the 8 3/4 wouldn't hold up with the pickup's weight, that level of power and the 4-speed. So I'm going to poll it out to see what everyone thinks I should do. Go 8 3/4 for easier gear swaps but not as much strength or Dana 60 and forfeit easy gear swaps for guaranteed strength?

Christine Picture 3.jpg
 
gagembassett said:
So I recently created a thread asking if anyone had made a full floater Dana 60 that had a 5x4.5 bolt pattern and I got to talking with several members about which rear end to use in my long bed 83 D150. The plan is told build a 600 horsepower W9 headed 360 that turns around 7,000-7,500 rpm with a Brewers-built A833 and a clutch tamer to help the trans hold up as per the recommendation of Dan Brewer. Long ago my plan for the rear axle was to run an 8 3/4 for easier gear changes but a few members were worried that the 8 3/4 wouldn't hold up with the pickup's weight, that level of power and the 4-speed. So I'm going to poll it out to see what everyone thinks I should do. Go 8 3/4 for easier gear swaps but not as much strength or Dana 60 and forfeit easy gear swaps for guaranteed strength?

View attachment 1715987237
Click to expand...

I mean you can definitely build a really stout 8.75 rear. It's just how much $$ do you want to spend doing it, and how often (really) are you going to be changing the gears around?

The thing that will kill a rear end is power + weight + traction. So if you're slapping on slicks and tracking the truck, I would go D60. I mean, Hell, I put a D60 in my Scamp for the extra insurance. My motor, stall, trans, and tire height is setup for 4.10 gears - so realistically, I won't be changing gear ratios much. If ever...

And for a truck, there a ton of D60s available that you probably wouldn't have to narrow as long as your wheel backspacing is dialed in.

Just figure out the goals for the truck and then work backwards to get the right parts. If it were me, I'd say D60 all day.
 
Definitely the Dana 60. It’s stronger and cheaper to build.

How often are you going to change gears realistically? Also, while doable, changing the 3rd member with the rear still in the car, and on the ground is a pain in the ***.
 
D60 for sure over the 8 3/4. Wouldn’t go over 450 hp/torque with a stock 8 3/4 especially if using slicks on a glued track. 8 1/4 for a stock engine street driver would be ok.

another option would be a 9 1/4, readily available out of a junkyard pickup. My local yard priced me one about a year ago at $350 inspected and warranted. This will hold up to that kind of hp/torque with slicks and a glued track. Plus it is somewhat lighter than a d60.
 
Strange Super 60 has spanners for ease of carrier swaps. Usually free freight around Christmas time!
 
IMHO, by the time you had an 8 3/4 strong enough to live, you will have more money in it than a dana from strange/Dr diff. And then, if it doesn't live, you've just thrown the money away.
Lots of power, lots of weight, stick shift? Dana, 1000%. Pick the right gear, and you won't have to worry about changing them.
 
IMO, 600HP is not too much for an 8 3/4, but it could be under the right circumstances. It's kinda "on the fence" if you will. So I chose the Dana.
 
RustyRatRod said:
IMO, 600HP is not too much for an 8 3/4, but it could be under the right circumstances. It's kinda "on the fence" if you will. So I chose the Dana.
Click to expand...
I agree, i think a 8 3/4 with GOOD pieces in it will stand 600 horsepower, with a mild converter, moderate weight, and bias slicks or et streets. (Radials demand a dead hook, bad for weak rears)
Op's truck is not someplace I would gamble on an 8 3/4
Edit: forgot to mention, "with an auto trans", but I guess that's implied by the converter comment.
 
33IMP said:
I think a 8 3/4 with GOOD pieces in it will stand 600 horsepower, with a mild converter, moderate weight, and bias slicks or et streets. (Radials demand a dead hook, bad for weak rears)
Op's truck is not someplace I would gamble on an 8 3/4
Click to expand...
I agree if it was back braces and whatnot. But with a possible trans brake and big slicks that are fixin to hook like a ****, I chose the Dana.
 
Wallace racing calculator can get you close to the right gear the first time.
for example, if your truck can pull 6500 in the lights,, with a 30" tire at 120 mph, you need a 4.84. So, 4.88s obviously.
For other conditions, wallace will help you out.
(Frankly, 4.88s would have been my choice for your truck, too)
 
The D60 is cheaper to build. Unless you have to have the 8.75 for a numbers matching deal I would never think of an 8.75 again for anything.

Hell, if I was building a /6 and needed a rear axle I’d do the D60.
 
8.75 has enough strength to consistently run low 10s in a full dress dart gts with a 2 step and a little wheelie.
But a 4 speed & much heavier truck the Dana 60 is better, maybe even a minimum requirement
 
ch1ll said:
D60 for sure over the 8 3/4. Wouldn’t go over 450 hp/torque with a stock 8 3/4 especially if using slicks on a glued track. 8 1/4 for a stock engine street driver would be ok.

another option would be a 9 1/4, readily available out of a junkyard pickup. My local yard priced me one about a year ago at $350 inspected and warranted. This will hold up to that kind of hp/torque with slicks and a glued track. Plus it is somewhat lighter than a d60.
Click to expand...
They don't have many options for carriers, and I'm pretty sure he'd need a spool.
But you can put 8.75 -dana 60 ends on to make bolt in axles.
 
OR you could go with a Ford 9". Cheaper all the way around.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Strength wise in stock form the Dana is better , and more likely to find an exact fit
Click to expand...
But who leaves anything stock? I'd like to see some hard proof the Dana is stronger......Normally the chunk type units have an edge with strength. Exact fit? Yeah, but with WHAT ends?
 
gagembassett said:
So I recently created a thread asking if anyone had made a full floater Dana 60 that had a 5x4.5 bolt pattern and I got to talking with several members about which rear end to use in my long bed 83 D150. The plan is told build a 600 horsepower W9 headed 360 that turns around 7,000-7,500 rpm with a Brewers-built A833 and a clutch tamer to help the trans hold up as per the recommendation of Dan Brewer. Long ago my plan for the rear axle was to run an 8 3/4 for easier gear changes but a few members were worried that the 8 3/4 wouldn't hold up with the pickup's weight, that level of power and the 4-speed. So I'm going to poll it out to see what everyone thinks I should do. Go 8 3/4 for easier gear swaps but not as much strength or Dana 60 and forfeit easy gear swaps for guaranteed strength?

View attachment 1715987237
Click to expand...
What's your plans for suspension? Ladder bars, 4 link or some sort of caltrac?
 
RustyRatRod said:
But who leaves anything stock? I'd like to see some hard proof the Dana is stronger......Normally the chunk type units have an edge with strength. Exact fit? Yeah, but with WHAT ends?
Click to expand...
The housings are weak links on 9 & 8.75.
That's why there all back braced in race form.
Stock form Dana's don't need that. There's hard proof in my eyes.
I think the ends are easier to modify on a Dana also. I think car ends definitely would work in place of floaters.
I hope none is left stock lol.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
The housings are weak links on 9 & 8.75.
That's why there all back braced in race form.
Stock form Dana's don't need that. There's hard proof in my eyes.
I think the ends are easier to modify on a Dana also. I think car ends definitely would work in place of floaters.
I hope none is left stock lol.
Click to expand...
I agree, because of my point before. What wheels would he run with five lug and that BIG center hole? I don't think anybody makes anything. So Ford 9" it is. LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top