Exploding Torqueflites

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The place in Canada(TCS?) offers one ... and I think that it is about the same $$$ as the alum one.
 
sooooo....
i have a 400 with a .509 cam, edelbrock torker intake, will have 3.91s and a 3000-ish stall converter soon.....i don't know what EXACTLY the tranny is...whether old stocker, rebuilt, or what.....

guess that's bad?????

also, how good are the TCI or Mancini trannies???

i was kinda looking at the tci competition ($850) and puting a manual/auto valve body in it....
dunno bout Mancinis but TCIs reputation for 727s is junk
 
Maybe I missed something... If you have a stock valve body, when the shifter is in manual low the L/R band is applied. When the shifter is in automatic low the L/R band is not applied. Right? Then why wouldn't you always want to start in manual low regardless of whether it was a burnout or a launch? If you start a burnout in manual 2nd... the trans is starting in 1st gear non L/R applied. Like I said, maybe I missed something, please help me out here and explain further.
 
When you start out in manual 2nd, the trans is starting out in 2nd gear. The problem occurs when you come out of the throttle and the tires hook hard. Like driving out of the water, and lifting just as the tires bite. This places severe loading on the rollers, and the entire sprag, as well as the case. This is when breakage usually occurs.
 
I don't know much about auto trannies, so I can only speak generally.
The guy who built the 727's for our Stock Eliminator car (and many previous for my partner), would "pin the sprag" if I remember the terminology correctly. There was never a problem. (Even after breaking a ring & pinion.) I hope this was a good fix and we weren't just lucky. But, there were hundred's of runs on many different trannies.
 
I was pretty rough with a built slant 6 and modified 904 with the 999,998 gears and B & M shift kit. When all was done I had nothing but reverse, neutral and some scary look metal splinters from the f drum.
I have not used B&M shift kits since, though I don't blame them, I have not had this problem ever since.
 
Gee, nobody mentioned the NO NEUTRAL DROPS as another way of avoiding the dreaded Exploding Torqueflite experience. Maybe everybody has gotten the message.
 
Good information here. Not to Hyjack the tread but, I have an Art Carr reverse Manual valve body, it has been in three transmissions so far and in every one of the trannys it locks up between 1st and 2nd gear. I have had several people look at it, but so far no one has been able to fix it. the dang thing will darn near throw you thru the windshield. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
I Have A 72 Dart That Run 6.90s In 1/8 Mi. 1.46 60 Ft. Times, About 6 Weeks Ago I Broke A Rear U Jt. On Staring Line. When I Bought Car I Didn't Ck U Jts, They Were Jts, With Greece Zerks, They Are Hollow, And Weeker Than Sold Jts, I Put A New Joint In Rear And Didn't Ck Trans For Damage Went Back To Track Made 6 More Runs Noticed A Trans Leak, Thank God I Then Checked Trans It Was Cracked All The Way Around The Frt Of Pump . Only 2 Inces Remained In Tack. Could Of Realey Done Some Serious Damage To Car And Myself. Replaced Case. And Went To Aluim Drive Shaft With Solid Brut Jts. I Had The Local Performance Trans Man Change Case And Check All Parts . So Check Ck Trans Often. My Trans Is A 904 They Are About 80 Lbs Lighter Than 727. If Built Right They Can Handle 5 To 600 Hp. If You Use A 998 Or 999 Case They Are Stroger Yet, And Have A Extra Clutch Plt And Wider Band. Good Luck Gary!
 
i did not think a 904 or a 727 did not bloe up couse of runin it hard i thought they could bloe up only if u NEUTRAL DROPed it i just put a tci 904 in my duster with a 3500 stall behind a built 360 if any one knows if tci trans uses the 6 bolt 16 roller sprag id like to know its not a manule vavle body but will handle 450 hp thanks tom
 
Back in the days a buddy of mine had a volare wagon that needed a brake job BADDDDD....the pads eventually ground into the cooling fins of the rotors (this sounded BRUTAL) So a few days later he stops over picks me up and we're heading to McDonalds or somewhere pullin up to the first stop,doin about 30 mph,I ask didja ever fix dem brakes ,He says yeah... throws it in reverse and punches it!!!He drove around for about two weeks using "the reverse drop technique with no trans failures before he finally did a brake job!!!Love them 727's...
 
Ok My First Concern Here Is Safety I Have A A 727 That I Build Blue Plate Clutches Full Manual Valve Body Everything Else Is Basicaly Stock...and Everything Has Been Working Fine But Now I Am Concernced.... I Figure I Will Run It Till It Blows Witch Is Probably Stupid But What Measures Can I Take Whats Better Blanket Or Shield.. And It Seems That It Is Theis Sprag That Is The Problem Mainly Worth It To Pull It All Apart And Replace It??
 
Put a better front drum in it. The front drum on the 727's is what blows to pieces. It can spin at up to 2.5X cranks shaft RPM.

See if your MVB is a low band apply.
 
I was reading threw all this and theres alot of good info.
I use the new cheetah valve body that has the forward pattern with low band apply.
Also i am installing the newest one (17676 part #)in my cuda.
Cheetah valve bodys are great.
But i have to tell you, i have been doing my burnouts ,starting in 1st gear and then going into second gear and letting off for years and have never had a problem.
This dosen't mean that there might not be a better way of doing your burnout and it makes me wonder??
I would think, it would be harder on the clutch pack?
ANYWAYS\\\\\\\\

Two guy's asked if they have a stock valve body ,how could they start there burnout in second gear and the answer is, YOU CANNOT START IN SECOND GEAR WITH A STOCK VALVE BODY\\IT WILL STILL START IN 1ST GEAR.
You may put the selector in the second gear position but the transmission will still start in 1st gear and then go to second.
YOU NEED A MANUAL VALVE BODY TO DO THIS. :hello2:
 
727 needs a billet front drum....

so far i have not seen 904 drum come apart....probably cause there mass is alot smaller.
 
I had a fErd a couple years ago, that was all Mopar running gear, including the front suspension (a '56 HT). The BB 383, had a 727 Auto, with "B&M" components, I was told.

The reverse valve body worked well. If I kept the trans. in 1st gear, accelerated a little, the trans. would "glide" when I took my foot off the accelerator (the only way I can describe it) as if I'd put the transmission in neutral, but, if I used the throttle a little, to bring it up to speed (what would be the equivalent to the road speed) the trans would engage normally. Was this the reverse valve body, or something else in the transmission.

The reason I'm asking, I'm building a 392 Hemi Dart, and have several options for transmissions. I really liked the feature in that combination described above, and if I could duplicate it with this car, I think the small block 727 would be my choice. I'm not a transmission guy at all, never had an automatic apart, but I guess there's a first time for everything.

Please enlighten me..! :argue:
Bob

I had a 1970 GTX with a 440 b&m trans and 9" 4200 stall converter do that, I could criuse in first gear to about 30mph, then let off gas pedal and rev it some while still rolling, kinda fun.:read2:, boy the old street racing days, the 80's were fun:cheers:
 
I just had a 904 built for racing with parts advise from Chris Andrews.Changed front drum,red racing belts,lower 1st gear etc...also ordered a 4500 stall from Coan.Yet to be tested.

Thanks for advise Chris!:toothy10:

P.S Blanket or shield?????Which one is better?Thanks.
 
I just ordered a B&M TransPak kit for my 727. I then started to wonder if this could interfere with the L/R band and cause it stop working. It is the stock forward valve body, should I have any problems with it? Thanks for any replies 8)
 
I just had a 904 built for racing with parts advise from Chris Andrews.Changed front drum,red racing belts,lower 1st gear etc...also ordered a 4500 stall from Coan.Yet to be tested.

Thanks for advise Chris!:toothy10:

P.S Blanket or shield?????Which one is better?Thanks.
No problem, Scott!

Most prefer the shield versus the blanket as the blanket typically does not fit well with headers, etc. It can also hold heat in.


DadGum_Teen said:
I just ordered a B&M TransPak kit for my 727. I then started to wonder if this could interfere with the L/R band and cause it stop working. It is the stock forward valve body, should I have any problems with it? Thanks for any replies :cool:
You shouldn't have any problems with that shift kit as long as it's installed correctly. Even though your shift kit automatic valve body applies the L/R band in first, caution should STILL be used while you are in first gear because there is a chance you can damage the sprag.
 
Hey Chris,good to see you stop in.I have yet to try my car/tranny at the track.Just waiting on some Weld wheels for the front(small rims to clear my fenderwell hedders)Next will be the sheild,which shouldn,t be that hard to install seeing I have the fenderwell hedders.I hope?LOL
 
I am not sure what this guy did ....
but he knows not to do it again............

cuda71 001.jpg
 
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