Factory Torque-Converters ~ Stall-Rate

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Here is how you identify your stall: 1) hold the brake firmly. 2) slowly press into the Xcelerator while holding the brakes. 3) whatever the tach says before the back tire starts to spin is your stall rating. :D Seriously, each convertor will react differently according to the torque the motor is producing. For instance, a 318 2bbl may only stall up to 1800 in Denver, Colo. Drive the same car without changing anything to the middle of Iowa, and it may stall up to 2000 rpm's. Why? The altitude in Colo will rob low end torque. Put a 360 in front of a 318 904/converter and it may stall to 2300.

Close,

There a '3' areas of Stall.
* Brake Stall
* True Stall
* Flash Stall
 

Correct Sir,

Stall Speed is the speed in which the Torque-Converter will hold the Engine Speed,
and will not allow further gain.

Testing by holding the brake {Brake-Stall} until the Tires break loose, is a general
test. But it does not provide a 'true' Stall-Value, because the Engine Power can often
cause the wheel to turn by 'over-powering' the Brakes.
 
PTC said to put the car in 3rd gear and mash it to the floor and record the RPM.
 
PTC said to put the car in 3rd gear and mash it to the floor and record the RPM.

'Flash Stall'

Determined by, 'launching' the car at full-throttle, and observing peak speed
at launch.
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Regarding the 'Maximum Performance Packages'
* 1962 ........... '413'
* 1963 ........... '426'
* Early-1964 ... '426'

These Performance Packages came thru with 11.75" Torque-Converters, and
the Stall-Speeds were rated at {2000 to 2300 RPM's}.

What made the A-727 Transmission 'special', was the Heavy-Duty internal components.

These Transmissions were designed for hard-launching 'Neutral-Drops'.

But remember, the maximum allowable width for Slicks was {7"}. So coming
off-the-line 'hard' was not the way to launch in the S/SA Class.
 
=TrailBeast;1970880213]As "reman" goes they are supposed to cut them open and replace the bushings and needle bearings.
They are also supposed to weld a new pump drive hub, and check/replace flexplate bolt areas.

Who knows if they actually do it.[/QUOTE]

Absolutely this... The T. C ..biggest pain in the ***,to install. Buy a new one,or have your factory one flushed properly.( done too many swaps over this ,personally.)
 
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