Fan and gauge issues

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roccodart440

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Had the car out for the first time Saturday and ran into 2 issues.

1. Temp gauge isn't working. When I turn the key on it pins the gauge all the way to the right, which would be over 260 degrees. It's an autometer electronic temp gauge.

2. My fans keep blowing the fuse. I have twin electric fans on 1 relay and one 30amp fuse. The relay is activated by a manual switch.

Any help would be great. Electrical isn't my thing.
 
Almost impossible to troubleshoot aftermarket and modified wiring.

Autometer: I believe these are what is called a bridge type gauge, but the important thing is I believe the gauge MUST be grounded, or have a ground terminal that is so grounded. When you unhook the sender, what does the gauge do? You ARE? using the correct sender for the gauge. MUST be the correct Autometer sender and not Mopar or something else

Fans: These a kit, or junk yard ones you've pieced together? You have a link or diagram how you wired them? Unhook one motor at a time and try it. 30A may not be enough for both motors. You have specs? on the motors? Who made 'em, model? What are they rated for amperage?
 
Almost impossible to troubleshoot aftermarket and modified wiring.

Autometer: I believe these are what is called a bridge type gauge, but the important thing is I believe the gauge MUST be grounded, or have a ground terminal that is so grounded. When you unhook the sender, what does the gauge do? You ARE? using the correct sender for the gauge. MUST be the correct Autometer sender and not Mopar or something else

Fans: These a kit, or junk yard ones you've pieced together? You have a link or diagram how you wired them? Unhook one motor at a time and try it. 30A may not be enough for both motors. You have specs? on the motors? Who made 'em, model? What are they rated for amperage?

Autometer: I will unhook the sender and see what it does. It is the send that came with the gauge and it worked last year just fine. Looks like a factory sender to me. I also bought a new sender to try that as well.

Fans: They are aftermarket electric fans. Not sure of brands. I am going to try 2 relays and (2) 20 amp fuses. If it works, great. If not, I'll know which fan is giving me the assache.
 
You need to find out what these fans "are." If they were bought new, you should be able to id them and determine amps draw. If they are junkyard, google them, or measure amp draw with a meter. I would say more like no12 min wire size to each motor and at least a 20A for each motor
 
A slo-blo fuse would be best w/ fans since the brief starting surge current is much higher than the steady-state current. True of all DC motors, when stalled the only thing limiting the current is resistance of the armature, which will melt if stalled too long. Once turning, it generates a "back emf" which greatly reduces current draw. But, you don't need to design it, just copy. If JY fans, lookup the wiring diagram for the vehicle you robbed and use an equivalent fuse.
 
I had problems with 1 relay 30 amp on a double fan so I ordered a second one just like the one the guy from summit suggested, thinking this would solve the problem. After messing with it a dozen different ways I called summit tech support turns out I need a double relay set up that goes with my fans. I'm sorry I cant remember the part number off hand.
 
Last night I tried grounding the sender, no change.

I tried a new sender, no change.

I tried unhooking the sender all together, no change.

As soon as I turn the key on, it pins the gauge all the way to the right.

I'm going to call autometer today.



The fan issue has been resolved. 2 relays, 2 fuses.
 
Last night I tried grounding the sender, no change.

I tried a new sender, no change.

I tried unhooking the sender all together, no change.

As soon as I turn the key on, it pins the gauge all the way to the right.

I'm going to call autometer today.



The fan issue has been resolved. 2 relays, 2 fuses.
The gauge has wires for 12 volts ignition feed and a connection to the sender, correct? I am assuming you disconnected the sender wire at the sender. Disconnect the wire that goes to the sender from the gauge itself. If the gauge does not move with the ignition on then the wire to the sender is grounded somewhere between the gauge and the sender. If the gauge still pegs with the wire to the sender disconnected at the sender then the gauge is suspect, assuming it is wired correctly.
 
Problem found:

Wire to sender was being pinched by the column which was recently re-installed. I found this out when I yanked the column bolts preparing to remove the dash and the gauge began working.

Fans are now on their own relays and their own fuses.
 
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