Fel Pro 1213

[SpeedThrills]

I want to block the heat crossover on my 360 w/ ported 915's. It's a warm weather engine.
The 1213's don't have the openings for the crossover. Will they work? Why don't they burn through?
Is their purpose to block the cross over, or was there an application with no crossover?

 

[Dan the man]

I want to block the heat crossover on my 360 w/ ported 915's. It's a warm weather engine.
The 1213's don't have the openings for the crossover. Will they work? Why don't they burn through?
Is their purpose to block the cross over, or was there an application with no crossover?

I don't know if they are still available, but at one time manici racing and other companies had block off plate's for blocking off the crossover. Gaskets with the opening blocked off are probably for aluminum heads.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Some people get the crossover welded up to prevent burn through of the stainless core inside the gasket. I’ve used epoxy putty mixed with coarse steel wool and block sanded it smooth after it cured with good results. I don’t know how much of problems burn through is with them, though.

 

[512Stroker]

I want to block the heat crossover on my 360 w/ ported 915's. It's a warm weather engine.
The 1213's don't have the openings for the crossover. Will they work? Why don't they burn through?
Is their purpose to block the cross over, or was there an application with no crossover?

I have successfully used .030 brass sheet shim stock between the head and the gasket to block off the cross over. Cut to fit with a little over lap and some hi temp silicone and your done.

 

[JDMopar]

Some people get the crossover welded up to prevent burn through of the stainless core inside the gasket. I’ve used epoxy putty mixed with coarse steel wool and block sanded it smooth after it cured with good results. I don’t know how much of problems burn through is with them, though.

Great idea! What kind of epoxy putty?

 

[Garrett Ellison]

JB weld high heat. After you get it kneaded together, just tear off little pieces of steel wool and push into it. I mixed in a little clear loctite 2 hour epoxy to thin it down to keep it workable nearly and doubled the size of the pile with the steel wool. Don't forget to the wash the steel wool with brake cleaner or alcohol to remove the protective oil that keeps it from rusting and then allow to dry so it doesn’t contaminate the epoxy.

 

[SpeedThrills]

JB weld high heat. After you get it kneaded together, just tear off little pieces of steel wool and push into it. I mixed in a little clear loctite 2 hour epoxy to thin it down to keep it workable nearly and doubled the size of the pile with the steel wool. Don't forget to the wash the steel wool with brake cleaner or alcohol to remove the protective oil that keeps it from rusting and then allow to dry so it doesn’t contaminate the epoxy.

I'll give that a try. Thanks

 

[D-mailman]

I'll give that a try. Thanks

I use stainless steel shim .021 thick, picked up from metal shop cheap. Cut to fit allowing about .200 overlap and using contact cement like super glue to hold the plates in place , works great, I have to pry them off with a screw driver when I have to remove the plates . It works for me .

 

[SpeedThrills]

I have successfully used .030 brass sheet shim stock between the head and the gasket to block off the cross over. Cut to fit with a little over lap and some hi temp silicone and your done.

I use stainless steel shim .021 thick, picked up from metal shop cheap. Cut to fit allowing about .200 overlap and using contact cement like super glue to hold the plates in place , works great, I have to pry them off with a screw driver when I have to remove the plates . It works for me .

I've always thought that the shim material would possibly create a vacuum leak. But obviously not. I may try this before I go the epoxy route.
I measured temps on the manifold with a laser temp thingee, (now, before blocking the heat) so that I could possibly tell if a particular block off burned through.

 

[Dicer]

Here is a paragraph from," Glenn's" Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Tune-up and Repair Guide.

 

[SpeedThrills]

Ok now I have these gaskets. I also have some .018” stainless steel.
Anyhow, these gaskets have I don’t know what you call it, blue embossing? Anyhow, which side goes up?

 

[512Stroker]

Ok now I have these gaskets. I also have some .018” stainless steel.
Anyhow, these gaskets have I don’t know what you call it, blue embossing? Anyhow, which side goes up?

Blue line side to the intake manifold

 

[SpeedThrills]

Blue line side to the intake manifold

I kinda thought so.

 

[512Stroker]

I kinda thought so.

Note
Do not use any sealer on the blue line side of the gasket

 

[SpeedThrills]

Note
Do not use any sealer on the blue line side of the gasket

I siliconed the china wall. (No gasket) Used just a bit of silicone to hold the long ones in place. Coated both sides of them with thin coat of grease. Makes removal easy.

 

[SpeedThrills]

Here's what I found regarding temperatures between unblocked and blocked manifold heat:
Unblocked Blocked Blocked
180 Thermostat 180 Thermostat 160 Thermostat
Ambient test temp: 88 88 84
Carb bowl: 145 130 132
Intake manifold (just below carb,
at exhaust crossover): 250 192 183
Top of radiator: 187 188 195
Water temp: 200 200 190

Temperatures were taken with an infrared tester, after a 30 minute ride, so as to thoroughly heat the engine. The coolant was 50/50 distilled water and antifreeze.

EDIT: I made separate columns, when I posted, the forum jumbled them up. I hope they're readable.

 

[clifftt]

Here is a paragraph from," Glenn's" Chrysler Plymouth Dodge Tune-up and Repair Guide.

View attachment 1715975256

I’ve always read and heard a cooler air/fuel mixture is denser and more desirable creating more power. But I’ve also heard a heated intake manifold enhances atomization, hence Dicer’s explanation from the Glenn’s Guide. I‘m guessing a warmer mixture is better for all around drivability.

Comments welcomed…