FENDERWELL HEADERS/ FRONT RIM SIZE

-
A

A/MP

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
623
Reaction score
83
Using a real fenderwell header, not like the 2 tube Hookers, the clearances are tight with a factory 15" wheel. Can't remember if a 3.5 or 4.5 wide rim works. Looks like the BS has to be shallow too. Any help?
 
I don’t think I can help but!

Can you list a manufacturer or post a picture of the headers to be used?

I do Believe you are correct that a very shallow and small wheel must be used.
 
i just finished building fender well headers on my 66 valiant with a 360, i'm using 15x4 wheels with BFG's P155/80R15. Tire will touch 3 in. down tube just before wheel hits steering lock. i will make adjustment to steering lock to eliminate contact.
 
Have any idea what the back space is for the wheels?
 
Doing something different with my 64 Dart, gotta 636 ive just stated setting up doing semi fender wells, 2 inner pipes through inner fenders and other 2 inside, also did a few other mods to rails so it will have tire clearance and wont have to sit up like a 4WD

DSC03235.JPG
 
davedartaus said:
Doing something different with my 64 Dart, gotta 636 ive just stated setting up doing semi fender wells, 2 inner pipes through inner fenders and other 2 inside, also did a few other mods to rails so it will have tire clearance and wont have to sit up like a 4WD

View attachment 1715206367
Click to expand...
---
Just wondering - is it possible to do some mods to the firewall in order to get the motor back enough to run a 26" tire? Might not be possible, not sure what is keeping the motor from going back an inch or 2.
 
Yea, the motor & trans mounts themselves keep the engine where it should be.
NOT using the stock engine & trans mounts normally requires a motor plate &/or mid plate with a fabricated trans mount.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Yea, the motor & trans mounts themselves keep the engine where it should be.
NOT using the stock engine & trans mounts normally requires a motor plate &/or mid plate with a fabricated trans mount.
Click to expand...
---
Ok. I was curious about this as I've started a 68 Dart build, RB block and will be using an engine plate. Want to run at least a 26 to 27" front tire. Want to go with fenderwell headers and wondering what would need to be modified to get the motor back enough. I haven't purchased headers yet.
 
Malex said:
---
Ok. I was curious about this as I've started a 68 Dart build, RB block and will be using an engine plate. Want to run at least a 26 to 27" front tire. Want to go with fenderwell headers and wondering what would need to be modified to get the motor back enough. I haven't purchased headers yet.
Click to expand...
That is a huge diameter tire for that car. (27)

Run the fender well headers because you want to for the look and “Oh wow!” But not for the power perspective. The tubes are to long for a serious effort. They also have a real estate issue if you start moving the engine back. The tubes go right under the master cylinder and exit close to the corner at the fire wall. Also the tubes that travel near the front tire also have a very limited amount of room.

What brand and size tube header?

Look at as many pictures as you can and if your exact header if you can find it. There were/are several manufacturers of this fender well exit header and there all not the same.

I think that you will have better luck with TTI headers if you move the engine rearwards. The RB in an A body guys will have to answer that for you.
 
Malex said:
---
Just wondering - is it possible to do some mods to the firewall in order to get the motor back enough to run a 26" tire? Might not be possible, not sure what is keeping the motor from going back an inch or 2.
Click to expand...
would need A LOT of work on the firewall to push motor back, limiting factor in my car is the head oil drains, saying that can't see how pushing it back will give anymore tire clearance. check the photo, this is a Aussie Hemi 6 ive fitted into Aussie Holden Torana.......iv'e pushed the motor back 8 inches

DSC03119.JPG
 
a 10-plus on visual. I would guess you have slip tubes to remove / install.

they say ....go big or go home....you went BIG (cubes).....nice!!!
 
HemiDenny said:
a 10-plus on visual. I would guess you have slip tubes to remove / install.

they say ....go big or go home....you went BIG (cubes).....nice!!!
Click to expand...
Yep slip joints, still painful to fit/remove, drivers side is super busy and yep wanted a big big block in my street car.....finally got one
 
davedartaus said:
Yep slip joints, still painful to fit/remove, drivers side is super busy and yep wanted a big big block in my street car.....finally got one
Click to expand...
---
Very nice.
What brand of header are those? With my 68, the heater box and fan will be gone, going with an engine plate, wouldn't be hard to massage a few areas. Only need an inch or 2. Got to do the frame connectors, move the leafs in and mini tub, lots of time to plan.

IMG_3402.JPG
 
I used the 15" tire called for on VW beetles back in the '70's with a narrow Centerline wheel (fenderweill headers were Cyclone). Can't remember the offset or rim size. Did not have any clearance problems.

65 Valiant1.jpg


65 Valiant5.jpg
 
dibbons said:
I used the 15" tire called for on VW beetles back in the '70's with a narrow Centerline wheel (fenderweill headers were Cyclone). Can't remember the offset or rim size. Did not have any clearance problems.

View attachment 1715232609

View attachment 1715232616
Click to expand...
---
I see you have a small block. I'm using an RB block in the 68. I think there is only Hooker or Hedman to choose from, unless I build my own.
 
You are talented! Was there a kit that you started with?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top