Finally doing the rear axle

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superdart

Shade Tree Tinker Gnome.....
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Finally got the last part of my mechanical stuff under way. I plan to keep my 8.25 since the 360 in the Dart is only in the 350-380hp dept. I have been collecting parts for a while, and then was busy and just never got around to it. Since it's 100+ degrees here in Texas and I will NOT be driving the car, it's the perfect time to do the work.

Game plan is a total rebuild (my first, so I may have questions):

- Upgrade from 2.45 to 3.55 gears (out of a 3.7L V6 Dakota w/ 18k miles)
- Using a modern LS carrier from a Dakota (brand new - 29 spline version
- LPW Diff Girdle cover
- Motive Gear Total rebuild kit
- 94 Jeep GC disc brakes
- New axles will be required (A-body length, late model spline & C-clip, Jeep register) - Extra money, but the gears and carrier together cost me almost nothing (dealer going out of business).
- I may weld up the axle tubes <----Opinions on this??
- Addco sway bar
- I am also upgrading to the 11.75 front disc from the stock 10.7 and finally hooking up the OD on my 518, now that I have some gear.

Massive pinion difference between ratios

Pinioins1.jpg


Axle1.jpg
 
I may be wrong but can you put a 3:55 gear in a rear that has a 2:45 ring and pinion? I read somewhere that you run out of adjustment and the pinion won't mesh with the ring gear with a stock differential unless you have a ring gear shim for it.
 
I will be following this thread as I'm also in the process of building a 74 A Body 8.25 for a future project. Mine will be 3.21 gears with a SG (27 spine axles) and the Jeep GC discs. Got as far as machining the GC caliper adapters & dust shield to fit the housing ends.

sent from my iPhone
 
I may be wrong but can you put a 3:55 gear in a rear that has a 2:45 ring and pinion? I read somewhere that you run out of adjustment and the pinion won't mesh with the ring gear with a stock differential unless you have a ring gear shim for it.

That is the first time I have heard that. I only know that the carrier assembly for 2.45 is specific due to it's size. It was my understanding the housings were all the same.

My bigger concern is the late model carrier. Mopar Action says it can be used with stock length axles, they just need to be cut with the late model spline pattern. I am currently double checking my research to make sure this is true so that I don't order a set of useless axles. I am going to put up a specific question thread regarding 27 vs 29 spline.
 
That is the first time I have heard that. I only know that the carrier assembly for 2.45 is specific due to it's size. It was my understanding the housings were all the same.

My bigger concern is the late model carrier. Mopar Action says it can be used with stock length axles, they just need to be cut with the late model spline pattern. I am currently double checking my research to make sure this is true so that I don't order a set of useless axles. I am going to put up a specific question thread regarding 27 vs 29 spline.

Yes, I think the housings are the same. But the differential's are different from a 2:45 to a 3:55.
 
Was going to start a new thread on the 8.25 but will pose a question and maybe info to supplement this one. We were following a Nitro today and noticed the width. It looks like it might be about the right width. Don't know the bolt pattern though. It should have discs and a pretty good gear, 3.55 maybe? Just wondering if anyone had similar thoughts or info.
 
29 spline axles are ordered. Time to get to work cleaning, welding and pressing bearings on housing.

Still need to decide how to finish the exterior. Might go Rust Bullet route...I only want to do this once.
 
In the process of cleaning everything while waiting on my new axles from Doctor Diff.

I did learn one very important item from him...there are THREE different late model 29 spline 8.25 carriers. The difference is the diameter of the center pin. It does not effect axle length to the splines, but it DOES effect the size of the button past the C-clip groove. The carrier I have uses a center pin that is almost a 1/10 inch smaller than the stock one.

After that got figured out, I went about getting my brakes modded to fit. Right side is done, left wide will be done Saturday, then it's on to cleaning and replacing axle bearings. I am going to do the housing in Rust Bullet, but I am going to paint it with some Valspar Industrial Anti-Rust Semi-Gloss Black...any paint with directions that start off with "NOT FOR RESIDENTIAL USE" is my kind of paint. Northern Tool had it on clearance. I figure that paint over the Rust Bullet should last a very long time.

Mocking up the brakes after grinding out the center hole...Just need to powder coat -
Frontside.jpg
 
Got my new hybrid axles from Doctor Diff (Dutchman), carrier and ring gear is together, and got the housing cleaned and coated in Rust Bullet. Once it sets I will get some black paint on it.

Axlessmall.jpg


Axle.jpg


AxleBullet.jpg


Then it's just a matter of putting everything together and getting it under the car.
 
...and now it is black. While I wait for the paint to dry I've been reassembling the Jeep brake assemblies and getting ready to replace the brake lines. Then starts the reassembly process.

PaintedAxle.jpg
 
Superdart,
Do you have any pictures of the LPW Diff Girdle cover installed? I was thinking of installing on of these on my 8-1/4". Would you recommend it?
Thanks

-Mike
 
Here is a pic, but I do NOT recommend their cover. I had to grind the inside of the cover to clearance the adjuster locks, AFTER I swapped out the hex head bolts for lower profile allen head bolts.

Then I had to over drill the top hole to get the cover to line up (all the other holes were good).

THEN the cap studs would not line up to sit on the cap. They were too far apart, and sat partially on the adjuster locks. Because I purchased this cover a year ago I was SOL (only a 90 day return policy). LPW did not even respond to my inquires when I sought help, thinking maybe I was doing something wrong (although it's kinda hard to mess up a cover install).

In the end, I removed the adjuster feet, and screwed in allen set screws to seal the holes, and just ran the cast cover to reinforce the housing.

Maybe my axle was some weird deal, but it was original, so I don't understand why nothing fit right. Unless LPW can explain the problems, I would recommend just finding another cast cover instead.

DSC_0004.jpg
 
exactly as I expected, i was looking at the hex head bolts that stick out of the bearing caps and i was wondering how the adjuster locks from the diff cover would fit. Oh well. Thanks for responding, but sorry to hear about your troubles. If it makes you feel any better, you saved a fellow member from wasting $160 on a $#!& company with poor customer experience.

Thank again!
 
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