FINALLY; it runs with some authortity!!!!

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memike said:
Got to have a Plymouth on it some where Bill if it was mine :coffee2:

You're rightt, Memike: The idiots at Car Craft magazine can't tell a Plymouth from a Dodge.... The copied picture is a little dark, but it's a '64 Valiant...

Check this out!!!


:eek:ops::wack:
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Bill Dedman said:
Good question...

I bought this head off ebay; a pig in a poke. Lucky for us, (Freddie and myself) the guy selling it was honest.

He said it was ported and had 1.75"/1.5" valves in it.

I paid him $700.00 for it, sight unseen.

When it arrived here (the seller said that it came out of a Dodge Van in a junkyard in Las Vegas!!!!) I took it to the machine shop that was doing all of our machine work (boring and balancng, etc...)

He magnafluxed it and couldn't find any cracks; pressure tested it, looked at the porting job and said i looked pretty good to him... he builds racing engines exclusively at that ahop. ) He tested it for flatness and found less than a thousandth of an inch variation from one end to the other, so, not wanting to make the combustion chambers any smaller than they were, I declined a clean-up milling. He agreed... said it had never been milled.

It weighs 84 pounds!!!

He gound the valves, putting a 3-angle valve job on it, using the valves that came with it, and back-cut them.

It's a drool tube head, which means you can get the lifters out of the engine with the head on. I guess you can't do that with the non-drool-tube head, although it (the later head) reportedly has a better combustion chamber.

We put a new set of 340 springs on it, with some pretty weak inners.

That gives us about 135 pounds on the seat and a little over 300 pounds, open.

Bet you're sorry you asked... LOL!
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I'm never sorry I asked, I'm always willing to learn! It seems the cork on the power when it comes to 225 slants is the cylinder head, and I'm curious on how to make it flow as well as possible on the smallest dollar possible. Lol
 
Bill Dedman said:
memike said:
Got to have a Plymouth on it some where Bill if it was mine :coffee2:

You're rightt, Memike: The idiots at Car Craft magazine can't tell a Plymouth from a Dodge.... The copied picture is a little dark, but it's a '64 Valiant...

Check this out!!!


:eek:ops::wack:
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Spotted a dart lmao, I am glad some of these folks don't deer hunt or we could be loosing cattle lol.... Update us Bill!!! I see you took it on a shake down :cheers:
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Wow good job. I am just starting learning and you guys are my /6 heroes. I want a t/6 but that's gonna take time. Thanks for the read. Awesome!!!!
 
madd said:
Wow good job. I am just starting learning and you guys are my /6 heroes. I want a t/6 but that's gonna take time. Thanks for the read. Awesome!!!!
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It is not something you want to do with the idea that it can be done quickly or easily, although over the last two years or so, good information is a lot more readily available than it was even eighteen months ago.

There are two facets of this project that seem to me to be the hardest to get done correctly: 1. Accumulating the RIGHT parts the first time, so you don't have to buy anything twice, and 2. Getting it properly "tuned" once it's operational.

Neither is easy, but neither is impossible, either. Knowledge is power. Learn as much as you can, before spending your hard-earned cash for parts so that you only have to buy them ONCE.

There are lots of experienced folks here and on SlantSix.ORG will be more than willing to give you information and advice, just for the asking.

The financial picture of building one of these cars is affected mightily by the fact that compared with building an engine-swap V8 car, there will be a whole lot of things you will NOT have to buy for a slant-6 car that would be necessary for the V8.

I would decide on a desired engine output (say, 300 horsepower, or whatever) and find someone who has built one like that already, and build a copycat motor, if theirs works well. That would take a lot of the guesswork out of the project.

That is exactly what we did.

Good luck and remember; the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!
 
Bill Dedman said:
It is not something you want to do with the idea that it can be done quickly or easily, although over the last two years or so, good information is a lot more readily available than it was even eighteen months ago.

There are two facets of this project that seem to me to be the hardest to get done correctly: 1. Accumulating the RIGHT parts the first time, so you don't have to buy anything twice, and 2. Getting it properly "tuned" once it's operational.

Neither is easy, but neither is impossible, either. Knowledge is power. Learn as much as you can, before spending your hard-earned cash for parts so that you only have to buy them ONCE.

There are lots of experienced folks here and on SlantSix.ORG will be more than willing to give you information and advice, just for the asking.

The financial picture of building one of these cars is affected mightily by the fact that compared with building an engine-swap V8 car, there will be a whole lot of things you will NOT have to buy for a slant-6 car that would be necessary for the V8.

I would decide on a desired engine output (say, 300 horsepower, or whatever) and find someone who has built one like that already, and build a copycat motor, if theirs works well. That would take a lot of the guesswork out of the project.

That is exactly what we did.

Good luck and remember; the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!
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10-4 on time consuming! Lol I'd almost pay to see someone turbo and tune a car In a 24hr window....
 
Hay bill keep the head on here intell nov this year i want to see you and the car at the track in tulsa this year ! Btw Side ways is fun lol
 
That is the ultimate slant. So well engineered and clean.Hope to meet you in person some day.
 
Dart_Doctor said:
Hay bill keep the head on here intell nov this year i want to see you and the car at the track in tulsa this year ! Btw Side ways is fun lol
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Doc, we are working feverishly to have it ready to race by Spring.

Great to hear from you; where you been?????????????:blob:
 
Darter6 said:
That is the ultimate slant. So well engineered and clean.Hope to meet you in person some day.
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Am I to assume (we all know what happens when you assume something... LOL!) that you were talking to ME, when you uttered those kind words?

Surely not...

Who were you REALLY talking to????
 
I can't wait to see some videos of this beast! So hkad someone other than me will mod a 4 door
 
forget videos chucky I want to see it at the track lol ... And if you et it down here bill I will help you in the pits if you need me lol
 
Rockerdude said:
Any updates Bill?
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Tomorrow (Sat.) we'll install a new O-2 sensor in the A/F ratio meter (the old one died) and do some more carb testing as regards mixture. if we can get that under control, it's ready to race.

I'll let you know. :happy1:
 
Keep us posted,Bill.I am on nails,actually. Such ,a cool build. Asa,turbo the Ruby,in your life. Yoh can weld like hell. Slantie,begging,for it.
 
Bill Dedman said:
Tomorrow (Sat.) we'll install a new O-2 sensor in the A/F ratio meter (the old one died) and do some more carb testing as regards mixture. if we can get that under control, it's ready to race.

I'll let you know. :happy1:
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Today, we got the new wide-band, data-logging, (F.A.S.T.-brand), A/F-ratio meter's O2 sensor replaced (it was lead-poisoned, I guess) and did a test-run in the turbo car, and here is what I learned:

Strange things are happening...

At full throttle, (with 10 pounds of boost,) the A/F ratio is perfect at 11.6:1. That's with the water/alcohol BoostCooler spraying. Dunno how we lucked out and hit on just the right amount of enrichment crutches (BIG jets, float bowl vent extensions, and a boost referenced power valve,) but there it was; a brand new meter said it was 11.6:1 and I am lapping that up like honey!!! It's been a long and arduous road to this point. I'd bet we have had the float bowls off that carb (for jet changes,) at least ten times! Probably more...

Here's the strange (bad) news:

All the time the engine is NOT on boost, the meter says the A/F ratio is 9.6:1.... Idling, or just driving down the road.

That is rich enough to wash all the lubrication off the cylinder walls... not a good thing. Adjusting the idle mixture helps the mixture richness at idle, but as soon as the throttle opens, it reverts back to a 9.6:1 ratio.

Now, we are stuck: It finally has the right amount of fuel (exactly, apparently,) to escape detonation under boost, but the mixture is so rich at all other times that driving it like that would wear the rings out, in short order.

I don't dare try to lean it out for fear of destroying the excellent A/F ratio it is showing to have under boost.

What to do?

It is so rich, that it runs noticably rough at part-throttle....

Tried a couple of stall start launches, today, and they went like this:

First one at 2,000 rpm... a disaster with probably a 3.5-second 60 foot time...
Engine had no power as soon as the brake was released, and it limped off the line, only to come on like Gangbusters two seconds later...

Second one: 2,500 rpm stall... left okay, but obviously needs 3,000 rpm to really haul the mail out of the gate, but on an un-treated surface like we have on the street, makes for too much wheelspin. I may have to install bigger brakes off a pickup (this rear end housing is a B-Body setup swapped out of a '69 Cornet.) The pickups have 1" larger diameter drums and wider shoes and are, I think, pretty much a bolt-in. The brakes we have now, don't hold the motor at a 3,000 rpm stall very well. Starts trying to spin the rear wheels...
It may not do that on a VHT-treated strip; we'll see.

I will go to great lengths to avoid the installation of a trans-brake, for reasons I won't get into, now...

But, at a 3,000 rpm stall, this thing moves well (when it hooks,) off the line... Better than my '72 supercharged, 360-Magnum, powered '72 Valiant (3,400 pounds.)

I am happy, but confused and don't have a clue as to what to do...


Ideas?????????????????:banghead:
 
Slant 6 Shootout April 20th Mo-Kan Dragway. Let's see what it will do at the track and we would like to show the locals a slant with a turbo. Win a Winchester Shotgun and/or the the long distance award pays $150.00. The Sunday April 21st race at Mo-Kan is the Spring Hot Rod Reunion and your car would be a perfect fit. The track is located in SW Missouri just north of Asbury, Mo.
 
Thanks for the update Bill,I am like others and am anxiously awaiting the track time...
I wonder if it is a power valve problem,I did notice you are running a boost referenced power valve,or maybe a bad metering block ???
Just throwing some ideas out there...
Check out this video some mods you have already done...
Martin

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2-AWMZe95I"]My Boost referenced power valve project - YouTube[/ame]
 
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