Is there a thread on the build? I would love to turbo my 69 valiant and have something different when I open the hood and cruise nights and shows. I want to avoid dropping in a SB V8.
Love to hear advice on parts, fabrication, etc. A shopping list would be nice
Here ys go...
This is a thumbnail sketch of the mechanical specs of our engine:
Block: 1964 225 slant 6
Head: 1964 225 slant 6
Crank: 1964 forged, ground .010"/.010" and balanced
Block modifications: bored .065" (234 cubic inches); no deck cleanup milling necesssary
Cylinder head was bought used off ebay from a guy who found it in a VAN, in Las Vegas. The van was in a junkyard, so he never got any information about it, but it was ported (pretty nice port job, my machinist said) and had 1.74"/1.5" valves installed. It came with a set of stock rocker arms, which we are using.
It's never been flowed...
.024"-thick. shim steel head gasket
The cam is a Bullet-brand, flat tappet, and I don't have the card handy, but I'm pretty sure it's a 210/210 @ .050", with .484" lift, ground with 115-degrees of lobe separation. I put it in, 4-degrees retarded to kill some anticipated (hoping for the best!) wheel-spinning low end torque. That may have been a mistake; we'll see.
904 Torqueflite with the 2.74 low gear, a full manual reverse pattern valve body and a TurboAction "Cheetah" reverse pattern floor shifter ($300.00!!!) damn...
3,000-rpm-stall, "bastard" Hughes torque converter ("bastard" because it has early and late internal components to make it fit the early crank snout and late front pump...)
The head had never been milled, so, with some forged, Wiseco flat top pistons, .167" below the deck. The true (measured with a burette) compression ratio turned out to be very close (VERY close) to 9:1. About right, with the 7-inch K-1 forged rods that went with the pistons, as a "set" kind of.... Wiseco works closely with K-1 and developed this low-drag ring setup piston combination, specifically with the wrist pin set (height-wise,) to work with the long, 198 slant 6 forged rod that K-1 produces.
We filed the ring end gaps to: .020" top,
.024" 2nd. Loose, because of the boost-related heat...
Blow-thru modified , 750 Holley, 4150 double pumper with a boost-referenced power valve.
The turbo is a 67 millimeter, Turbonetics, 4-bolt mount unit that came to me from a friend who runs an identical unit on his Grand National Buick (231 cubic inches,) His car runs mid-tens, so he said it should work well on our motor. Our camshaft is very similar to his, in duration and lift. (.210/210-degrees @ .050"-lift with 115 degree lobe centers, and .484" gross lift.)
The header is a 6-into one, 1 5/8", one-off, long tube piece that my partner, Freddie, built. The intake manifold is a long-runner, 4-bbl "Hurricane" from Australia.
We have an oil pan that has had the sump deepened 2.5" and baffles added to prevent oil pump pickup starvation on both acceleration and deceleration.
electric fan
electric water pump
stock oil pump
stock electronic distributor with an MSD 6-AL II (digital) We'll run 18 degrees (no typo) of total advance.
MSD Blaster coil
Taylor solid core wires
Snowperformance Stage I Boost Cooler meth injector that will be set to start spraying at 8 psi of boost
Walbro 51 psi fuel pump running through 3/8" line to a boost-referenced Mallory regulator set at 6psi for the needles and seats. Two inline fuel filters; one before and one after the pump.
Front mounted intercooler that is rated at 550 hp... Don't think we'll be making more than that... lol!
All going into a '64 Valiant 4-door sedan we found in a field.
It's been treated to a tubular a-frame front suspension with disk brakes and a large bolt pattern.
A 1967 Dodge Coronet (B-Body) 8.75" rear end with a 3.55 limited-slip gear set brings up the rear, which has Cal-Tracs, 50/50 shocks and Hoosier 9" X 26" slicks on 8" wide, 15" wheels.
So, if you need more information, just ask.
If you don't need a lot of horsepower, you can use less boost and stock pistons and rods and save about a grand on parts. This build should yield about 500 hp if 25 pounds if boost is used. We probably will never use more than 20 pounds because we failed to O-ring the block and the head gasket probably would give up before 25 pounds was used.
So, we will probably only have maybe 350 horsepower to play with at 10 pounds of boost.
We'll see...
Good luck; this not easy nor cheap, but is a viable alternative to the usual 360 swap.
Here are a couple of photos...
rofilel:
