first track day for the new dart

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71gtdart

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well, after working on the new Dart race car for over 3 years I finally got it to the track yesterday. heres a little history on the car.

71 dart
408 w/ forged 12.1 Icon pistons
IMM prepped RHS heads (no porting)
comp solid roller .621/.589 lift, 258/[email protected], 113 LSA
Harland Sharp 1.5 ratio Roller Rockers
Mopar Performance timing chain w/tensioner
RPM Performer Air Gap Intake (gasket matched)
Dougs 1 5/8" ceramic headers
750 cfm AED carb ( jetted 74 front-78 rear, no valve.)
1 inch open spacer under carb
Powerglide transmission w/pro brake and 1.76 1st gear
5000 PTC converter
8 3/4 rear w/ 4.86 Strange pro gear, Axles, and Spool
29.5x9 Mickey Thompson slicks

first let me explain something. the way my run process was supposed to go is as follows. set line lock and do burn out, come out of the water and flip toggle switch that will let the line lock and 2 step engage when the trans brake button is pressed at the line, and then stage.

well, during the burnout the 2 step comes on at 3,000 rpm with the toggle switch off. ok, so I must have had a brain fart while wiring and need to get under the dash and fix it. no problem, just burnout the best I can without the line lock on, make a run, and rewire in the pits. well, first pass I spin badly and just let out before the 60' mark.

I get to the pits and fix my wiring issue. ok, time for another pass.
burnout goes great this time, and now we can get a clean pass.
I stage, 2-step, and the car leaves with the wheels in the air. as it left it darted to the left. I let up on the throttle a little and gently start pulling it back to the right. I finally get it somewhat straight at about half track and ease back into the throttle. the car is driving awful and feels like it is wanting to go all over the place! well, I hang in there with it and go across the stripe with a 7.10 @94.24mph.

I get to the pits and notice the camber on the car is WAY screwed up! I get under the car to take a look and find quite a sight. the new urethane bushings on the front of the strut rods are destroyed! the strut rod pulled the nut and washer through the bushings on both sides.

well, back to the drawing board. I think I am going to ditch the Firm Feel struts and bushings, and get a set of the QA1 solid struts with the heim joints.

on a good note my goal for the car is to run 6.80's or 90's in the 1/8th mile. It looks like once the car gets straightened out and makes a good striaght run at full throttle that it will run that with no problem.

no wonder the car was trying to go all over the place, eh?
 
I always wondered if the poly strut rod bushings were up to the stress caused by the front wheels being locked.
I guess I have my answer.
 
I always wondered if the poly strut rod bushings were up to the stress caused by the front wheels being locked.
I guess I have my answer.

my dart has factory strut rods and poly bushings.They have been on the c ar for over three years and not have had any problems. I have been in the 10.40 at 125 in the 1/4 with them, so trail beast i wouldn't be afraid to use them.71gtdart great job on your frist time out and you are already close to your goal. do you have any pics of your car? sounds like a nice set up. don't know what to say about your bad struit rod bushings except maybe you got a bed set etc? best of luck on your car and i hope you exceed your goals.mopar65
 
my dart has factory strut rods and poly bushings.They have been on the c ar for over three years and not have had any problems. I have been in the 10.40 at 125 in the 1/4 with them, so trail beast i wouldn't be afraid to use them.71gtdart great job on your frist time out and you are already close to your goal. do you have any pics of your car? sounds like a nice set up. don't know what to say about your bad struit rod bushings except maybe you got a bed set etc? best of luck on your car and i hope you exceed your goals.mopar65


I do have a pic or 2 of the car, but I'm pretty dumb when it comes to computers. I have no idea how to post the pics here. thanks for the kind words.
 
Ever think of building your own strut rods mounted with a hiem joint? Pretty simple, any circle track catalog has all the parts needed.
 
Get the RMS adjustable strut rods...got a couple set of them in use...

also ...as far as engaging the line line and two step while the transbrake is engage...wire in a diode and you will not need to flip switches back n forth...

the diode keeps 12 volts from engaging the transbrake thru the line lock button..
 
my dart has factory strut rods and poly bushings.They have been on the c ar for over three years and not have had any problems. I have been in the 10.40 at 125 in the 1/4 with them, so trail beast i wouldn't be afraid to use them.71gtdart great job on your frist time out and you are already close to your goal. do you have any pics of your car? sounds like a nice set up. don't know what to say about your bad struit rod bushings except maybe you got a bed set etc? best of luck on your car and i hope you exceed your goals.mopar65

I have not had any problems with the poly's at all.
One thought I did have was which way the washers are facing on the front side of 71gtdart's car.
I ALWAYS put the cupped side againts the bushing for that very reason.
When the washer cup is out they will spread the bushing and then split it.
With the cup facing in, they tend to get pressed toward the center.

I know what some say about that, but then I have never had a bushing split either.

Look at these two pictures and decide which one splits the bushing open.
These are not poly, but the idea is the same.
 

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You did great for the first time out.... I too run the RMS solid strut rods. I believe the hiem joint will allow faster weight transfer and more front end lift "Droop" out of the hole then any Poly bushing. And your not going to have any wandering issues by squashing or splitting bushings using solid bushings. There will be absolutely no forward or backward movement of the suspension unlike a poly or rubber bushing in my opinion.
 
im ordering tube lower control arms and strut rods from bobs profab and I have a brand new still in box mancini adjustable strut rods ill sale
 
I would say if the nut and washer somehow pulled through the bushing, you had something assembled wrong, or used the wrong hardware. No need to re-invent the wheel, just needs to be assembled properly. Not to take away from the heim joint style, they also work well, and reduce friction in the suspension.
 
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