Flaming River Power to Manual Adaptor

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Drg racr

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I bolted in a manual steering box last night in the 69. When I was tapping the shaft down, my vise grips slipped, and I hit the joint, causing it to fly into a few pieces. I also found out that the splines are bigger on the manual box. So, I gotta buy a new joint.
My question, should I get the Flaming River (FR-1505M) power to manual adaptor? It's about $190, but it says its for the conversion. Or should I just buy a swivel joint for a manual and extend the steering shaft? I want it to pin to the steering shaft like the factory unit.
 
I got the flaming river adapter and am pleased with it. However if I was to do it over I would probably use the borgeson piece as it's a bit less expensive. The one thing to keep in mind is the conversion pieces are rigid and have no ability to slide like the factory pieces to accommodate for chassis flex .So keep that in mind also. Is your car stock or does it have any additional chassis stiffening? Like subframe connectors,roll cage, etc?
 
Drg racr said:
I bolted in a manual steering box last night in the 69. When I was tapping the shaft down, my vise grips slipped, and I hit the joint, causing it to fly into a few pieces. I also found out that the splines are bigger on the manual box. So, I gotta buy a new joint.
My question, should I get the Flaming River (FR-1505M) power to manual adaptor? It's about $190, but it says its for the conversion. Or should I just buy a swivel joint for a manual and extend the steering shaft? I want it to pin to the steering shaft like the factory unit.
Click to expand...

Can you post a picture? I used the part from Mancini and the splines matched perfectly between the column and the adapter and the adapter and the box.

It might be too late but did you notice that the splines are keyed?
 
The top on the box coupling is held on by a bottle cap like crimp. It don't take much to defeat the tiny little pin keeping the guts in the box either. You know all that now. You're not the first to empty the box. I've never seen the couplig parts crack/break though. Reassemble or kit rebuild your coupling. Struggle with how to recreate that crimp or just buy the formed wire retainer to hold it together ( available at ebay ). Install aftermarket shaft adapter that solves both shaft length and spline size differences.
You want to center the coupling guts in the box to accommodate chassis flex. It aint got to be perfect but somewhere close. Mount the column at upper support. You may need to adjust firewall plate location on column tube. All this and more is in very a recent thread.
 
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jomoper said:
I got the flaming river adapter and am pleased with it. However if I was to do it over I would probably use the borgeson piece as it's a bit less expensive. The one thing to keep in mind is the conversion pieces are rigid and have no ability to slide like the factory pieces to accommodate for chassis flex .So keep that in mind also. Is your car stock or does it have any additional chassis stiffening? Like subframe connectors,roll cage, etc?
Click to expand...
My car pretty rigid, connectors, 8pt rollbar.
 
MRGTX said:
Can you post a picture? I used the part from Mancini and the splines matched perfectly between the column and the adapter and the adapter and the box.

It might be too late but did you notice that the splines are keyed?
Click to expand...
I did not notice that. I do know the spline shafts are different sizes. The manual is bigger
 
Anyone use the Borgeson 034934 Vibration-Reducing joint? It's not as long, but I can pull some of my steering shaft out to make up the difference.
 
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