Floor pan/ frame connectors

-
H

Hoosier Dart

Hoosier Dart
Joined
Jul 21, 2009
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Location
Plainfield, IN
I'm going to install a one-piece full front floor pan and frame connectors in my 68 street driven Dart. When all is done I'll have maybe 400HP in a small block so I'm not going to twist it in two. I'd like to install the connectors first and then the floor so it doesn't fall apart. Going to weld the connectors. Will something such as the Mancini unit be adequate for my application? I know there are many manufacturers out there so does it really make a difference? I'd prefer a connector contoured to the pan but I'm afraid if I install such a connector and then a new AMD pan that the two won't exactly agree on "exact fit". So I guess the question might be whether or not a contoured connector is overkill for my application. Any ideas on which units will work best for me? Thank you.
 
I would just support the car very good to prevent any sagging, do your floor... then fit your frame ties in.. if you do it the other way you might end up cutting your new frame ties out to fit your floor.
 
I don't think you can buy contoured connectors for a Dart. Any connector will stiffen your car up enough for 400 hp. Make sure your car is sitting on all four wheels at ride height.
 
Since the floor is essentially the entire supporting structure for the middle of the car and I cut it out first how would I safely support the car while I'm doing it?
 
Hoosier Dart said:
Since the floor is essentially the entire supporting structure for the middle of the car and I cut it out first how would I safely support the car while I'm doing it?
Click to expand...

There's alot of info out there on it. Some guys weld in a temp brace in the door way from where the door bolts on to where the striker post is. While not an A body here is an article that might help you some. Good info here.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...g_challenge_or_a_resurrection_tech/index.html
 
Thank you hawkfn18. I checked the article. It mentioniond several other braced areas but was unspecific about where and how. Antone have info on this? I would prefer to do the pan first to avoid a potential interference problem with the connectors. I just don't want the car to bend in half. I'm new at this. First pan. I collapsed the roof of my house once while roofing so if it can be screwed up without proper instruction, I'm your guy.
 
I'm going to do my 68 dart later on and my thoughts were to do one side at a time. I also have the contured connectors from US Cartool. But I think I'll install them first and then the floor pans. That way the car is still supported. I've never done it before myself.
 
you never get the floor contours lined up with the contured connectors doing the conectors first.
 
I agree with tedsweet. Too many variables! There might be trimming here or there to get em perfect. The cartool ones weld to the floor and frame.
 
Since I'm going to do both sides I figure the one piece will be a cleaner and easier install. No welding down the center, just the perimeter. I think pan first makes sense. It goes where it goes and if something is in the way it'll have to be altered. I don't necessarily need contoured connectors. I'm sure they offer the most in rigidity but I'm not planning on much more than 400HP anyway. If most of the connectors sets out there are pretty much equal in construction then I'll just go with price.
 
Here's many photos of mine made out of 2"x3" x .120 bar stock.

24zceog.jpg


25ib52c.jpg


2s93uo3.jpg


ifppqp.jpg


15nwys5.jpg


9lg8oz.jpg


xpr8n7.jpg


dzweb7.jpg


13zcx2v.jpg


13zv0iq.jpg


beabk7.jpg


6qwkep.jpg


rvyka8.jpg


Everything has been finish welded, so I don't have pics of everything being complete. My car is still in the build stages.
 
I recently finished install of USCartool connectors on 69 Dart along with leaf sping relocation and mini-tubs and would not use any other type of connectors, they fit very well with minor trimming and once installed look like they were there from the factory,they are nice and thick.

OP, if your car is still rolling, raise it up and set it on jack stands ,two right under the rear end and two under front lower control arms,you can safely cut and remove the floor,no need for any bracing as long as the car sits on loaded suspension and level ground.

Stefan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top