Floor Pan Help

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brewil

brewil

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Joined
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Cape Tow, ZA
Hi all,

I have an Australian Valiant Charger and am pretty sure that the drivers side (RHS) floorpan has some nasty rust. As this A-body is different to US A-bodies, the front right floor pan panel sells for USD275. Thats just the one side panel:
http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3030

Then I also have to pay shipping and customs and VAT on top of that.
Is it possible to repair or fabricate my own panel???
Do these panels have to have the grooves in them or can it be 1mm sheeting?

HELP HELP HELP
 
To add: Can I just cut out the rusted area and weld a flat sheet in it's place?
 
The grooves add strength to resist bending and such, but welding in a flat piece should be fine as long as it's not a huge area. 1mm may be a tad light. I'd think 1.5mm (if readily available) would serve well as a floor patch.
 
If I was faced with high customs and VAT, I'd scour junkyards for a similar-sized car (even if its a Phord or chev) and hack it outta there. Maybe a maverick or vega, or jeep. Not sure what you have to pick from down there, but you might find something close.

Yes, the grooves add strength to the pan.
 
Yeah I think 1mm will be too thin thats like .039 not very thick. Maybe an old car hood without the ribbing underneith. Know someone with a bead roller? That can help with strenght.
 
Thanks guys. D you think USD275 for a drivers floor pan is a tad expensive?
 
I would just cut the sides out of an old washer or refridge that someone threw away and make your repair piece. If it is a large piece you should add the grooves to help make it stronger.
 
Was going to suggest the very same thread for budget repair of unobtainable floor panels. From Brazil to Australia, good ideas go around the world.
 
Sorry , didn't know where ZA was . Thought it might have being a province/territory/state in Australia since you mentioned Aussy A-body. Welcome to FABO.
 
I made my own floor pan, but of course that depends strictly on you and your skills and tools.
I used 16ga. steel, Cardboard (to make a template 1st), grinder, cutting wheel, welder, and grinding wheel.
Once I got the card board template so that it covered all of the area that needed repair, and was following all of the basic bends. I transferred it to the steel. I didn't worry about the convex or concave shapes unless it was really severe. Otherwise, I placed in the new piece for a test fit, went under the car and marked where the frame rail was, drilled some holes through the new pan. I used the holes to "plug weld" to the frame. This was to mimic the original "spot welds".
Then where I had the convex / concave shapes, I used a hammer and dolly to get the curves in, where ever they were needed in order to make the floor look like it used to be.

Now as it was pointed out earlier, the "ribs" in the floor are for structure. I am getting around not having them in there by #1 I welded more surface area than the original floor had. 2. I am installing torque boxes (that will limit the flex too), and I will also be installing sub frame connectors (again limiting flex).
So I wasn't to concerned about the ribs that were missing since I knew I was going to install the other stiffening items.

In your case, if you don't add other stiffeners, then more weld in the appropriate places would really suffice. Keep in mind... It would still be stronger than the hole in the floor is now!!!
LOL
Here is a pic of mine when I did it back then. Couple years ago.

Floor repair pan.jpg
 
By the way.. Yes I cut out the old stuff, not just a weld over! LOL
And yes that was welded with a crappy flux core welder! Fortunately I have access to a good Miller now!

floor cut out.jpg
 
I have a right side for an A body id sell for 50.00,dont know what it would cost to ship.Its new.Now ill tell you what I would do.get an old hood cut it to fit and if i needed stiffeners get some light 3/4 angle and weld to the bottom of the patch,not factory but neither is the hood patch.Good Luck buddy
 
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