Floor pan removal

[hbbuddha]

I had thought of just patching the floor pan but it occurred to me that I've patched floors before but I've never replaced a floor. That seems like a good enough reason to do it in my book. I went and picked up a nice used floor from a local FABO member. When comparing the pans, there are some obvious differences, my car came with bucket seats so the supports are different. No big deal, I'll cut them from the old floor and reweld them.

The issue I'm having is, finding the tap welds on my old floor. I see the little pressure marks around the perimeter and four pressure marks on the center bump, and two pressure marks on the torsion cross member, but that's where those marks stop. I have no marks down in the foot well or anywhere else for that matter. The new floor (and every picture I've seen, for that matter) has holes everywhere.

Do I not have these welds or are they just hard to find?

Also, any other tips to removing and installing?

Thanks
Hillbillybuddha

 

[crackedback]

Use a grinder and pass on drilling out the old floor. Just don't go crazy

Use the new floor as a pattern for where the spot welds are located. If the old pan has a bunch of paint, rot or scale on it in the spot welded areas, they are hard to see. Hit it with a wire wheel to help expose the spot welds.

 

[rumblefish360]

The pinch welds can be hard to see sometimes. They run the perimeter of the entire floor pan as well as several points attaching the floor to the under car bracing. I used a spot weld cutting bit. It makes easy work to remove the pan. I just did a copy cat welding to reinstall the pan.

 

[momoparman]

Maybe seeing whats under the floor pans will help.

Try these pics for reference.