flow and sound better

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DusterBoy15

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ok im going to be build my 318 or im going to swap to a 340 i want to know what are the best headers and what size piping is good i want that classic rumble like a 68 roadrunner with a 383 and a three quater cam i know it wont sound exactly liek it but i whant the rumble and to be loud not to loud but loud

hooker headers or super comp hookers or reccomend

2.50 or 3

glasspacks or cheery bombs or flowmaster or reccomend
 
I like the TTI's step header design, 1 5/8 stepped to 1 3/4, if you can afford them. If not, the 1 5/8 headers from just about any mfg. will work fine. For the 318, I would use 2 1/4 lead pipes w/bal tube & tail pipes. On the 340 or 360, use the 2 1/2 stuff. For mufflers, I like the Walker Dynomax Super Turbo's, they will give you that Road Runner sound. They have a nice sound at idle, they get louder as you get on it. They will not drone as you cruise. Alot of people use the Flo-Masters, but in my opinion they don't flow as well as the Dynomax. They don't really have that Muscle car sound. They do have a tendcy to drone. I run the Dynomax 1 5/8 headers, 2 1/2 lead pipes, Dynomax S/Turbos, 2 1/4 tail pipes w/factory tips. My car is a street car, 1973 Dart Sport, junk 360, 904 auto, 3:91 gear. It has ran a best of 12:56 @105. Hope this helps.
 
deleated for double posting, read below.
 
Mikes advice is good. His opinion on mufflers is actually correct. The FlowMasters do not flow as well as other mufflers. A deep rumble sound comes from chambered mufflers. Not glass packs or Cherry Bombs.
Dyno Max mufflers have a great rumble. I also like the Hooker Aero Chambers.

If your going to shoot for some decent street HP, over 300 HP, I would go right to 2-1/2 inch on ethier engine. Just choose an engine. And IMO, if you have a 340, go 340.

I used Hooker Comp. headers with a Jegs exhaust. It all went together very well. You can get the exhaust with or without mufflers. An "H" pipe or "X" system would be a bennifit to the exhaust system. It makes it harder to assemble. But it will add some power.
You'll might want to raise the front end of the car a little bit to help the headers clear road hazzards. They tend to hang low.

Click below and go to page #4, post #77 scroll down a tad for exhaust pictures with the above system. You can see a little bit on the low hanging drivers side header. Car has not yet been raised to help clearance.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10508&page=4&pp=20

A decent rumble also comes from tight centerlined cam and reasonable compression ratios.
 
any sound clips??? or ideas on a good cam im thinking of bout 10- 10.5 comp rhoads lifters rebuilt stock heads with better parts roller rockers i want maybe 300-350 and i think i might want a "lopy" idel if that gives the the rumble i think
 
Sorry, no sound clips here. Go to a exhaust manufactures page. Comp Cams also has a sound clip on there home page with certain cams.

10.0-1 is seriously pushing the pump gas octane limits unless your cam is ground on a 106 or less or is simply a "BIG" cam. Iron heads should be basicly limited to 9.5-1 while aluminum heads can go one full point higher. This can be argued, but the power gain is really really small. about, give or take 3% per 1 point of compresion. This also can be argued. But it is a good ingeneral area for a street engine.

You also do not need to spend extra (And hefty) for roller rockers. Ethier the MoPar HD Hyd. replacement rockers or Mech. rockers from Crane will be more than enuff.

Don't use the Rhodes lifters for no apparent reason.

I'll recomend a cam once you have figured out what engine your going to use and when I know more about your car. Theres lots of ground to cover here before I would recomend a cam that would work well rather than just work given the lack of info you have given up.

We have really just covered all the give me on this topic so far. Are your ready to get serious or just screw around bench racing dribble?
 
im ready to get serious.

if i build a 340 can i use my 318 block?
if i go 318 what cam is good?
if i go 340 what cam is good?

and whats wrong with rhoads lifters jw?

so im guessing i should stay around stock compression or go to 9 thanks

PS WHERE CAN I GET THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL TO BUILD THE MOTOR OR WHAT IS THE BEST ONE OUT THERE THANKS
 
ya know.. most of the books out there are gunna tell u the same thing. and for exuast flowmaster is ok not the best and everyone and sisters have em on the auto. go for something w/ a straight through design specialy if u are looking for performance. i put a pair of bassani muflers on my friends 72 dart w/ after the cobra i had took a dump(ford sux)...no one has that on there old school stuff and it sounded way good. and rumblefish360 is right. u need to determine alot of things before u get a cam.
 
DusterBoy15 said:
im ready to get serious.

if i build a 340 can i use my 318 block?
if i go 318 what cam is good?
if i go 340 what cam is good?

and whats wrong with rhoads lifters jw?

so im guessing i should stay around stock compression or go to 9 thanks

PS WHERE CAN I GET THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL TO BUILD THE MOTOR OR WHAT IS THE BEST ONE OUT THERE THANKS
Click to expand...

I don't think you are. Theres 3 if's in your last post and I have no real info on your car, trans, rear size and gear ratio along with the performance goals an expections.

Whats a good cam for a 318 or a 340. I can name about 40 right now but would it suite your purpose?

You can not use a 318 block to build a 340.

Nothing wrong with Rhoads lifters. But WHY are you useing them? Yoiu have not a running engine set up with the parts or cam to see if it is what you want out of the combo. If the cam is to larger to start with, then the Band-Aid Rhoads lifters are not going to deliver what you want. The proper cam will!

Factory service manuals can be found at the local MoPar dealer, AKA Dodge or Chrysler dealer. On the net, go to Manciniracing .com or other book stores. Heck, did you look above on this page for adveretisments?

Also get how to rebuild my small block mopar and hot to hotrod my small block mopar. Once you have read all 4 books, you'll be in much better shape to start your project instead of asking a million questions that you should all ready know the answer to.

The only stupid question is the un-asked one. The ones you have asked have been posted here many times. Do some...lots of research. Look around, get the books.

Trust me, you thank me later.
 
ok kool i believe im going to keep the 318 unless when i start the build and the block is bad.

I have a stock 73 duster 318 and thats about all i know bout it i dont know what kind of diff i have or tranny maybe you guys could help
 
well u can tell the rear end whether there is a pan on the back or not, if the rear has a pan on the back its a 7 1/4 if theres no pan and the thr3 member comes out the front its probably an 8 3/4 ,,, u can also go onto a website to tell the difference in the tranny pan to see whether its a 904 or 727.. or u could go on a site that has the vin decoder and that will help u also so have fun and good luck
 
Ahhhhhhh, no the fun can begin. (Alittle bit at least)
This is a shot of a (MP deep Chrome) 904 pan. You more likely have a 904 in the car. Check.

I seem to not be able to find a basic showing diagram of the rear ends. Can anybody post it?

100_0497.JPG
 
well ill check tommrow but the fender decoder said i have torqueflite not sure if thats the name for all but thats what it says i have
 
71_dart_swinger said:
well u can tell the rear end whether there is a pan on the back or not, if the rear has a pan on the back its a 7 1/4 if theres no pan and the thr3 member comes out the front its probably an 8 3/4 ,,, u can also go onto a website to tell the difference in the tranny pan to see whether its a 904 or 727.. or u could go on a site that has the vin decoder and that will help u also so have fun and good luck
Click to expand...

It's a 73 car so it could have an 8 1/4 too and it will have a cover on the rear. 8 1/4 will be more oval sahped on the back and have 3" axle tubes.

Unless you are going to be racing with slicks the 8 1/4 is plenty good for a small block A-body
 
whats would be the diff if i used 2.50 or 3in piping
and what is the diff between comp and super comp headers
and will there be any clearance issues with a X pipe
 
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