Flowkooler water pump for 340 going into a 1964 plymouth valiant

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64whiteghost

64whiteghost

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Hey whats up guys. So i decided on a flowkooler water pump for my 1964 plymouth valiant 340 build. Im using a 3 row radiator

Champion Cooling Systems CC1635-BLK: 3-Row Aluminum Radiator 1963-1969 Dodge/Plymouth Vehicles (22 in. Core), Semi-Gloss Black Finish - JEGS

1957-1970 MOPAR Dodge Plymouth 273 318 340 Poly wedge water pump

Im wondering i will have clearence issues with this set up and the fan. Ive been advised to use the hayden low profile fan clutch.

Thoughts ?

Screenshot_20230727_214916_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
it lists the core thickness as 2.25" but i don't know if that accounts for any stand off from the mounting brackets-- if there is any. the technical data doesn't show that detail.

anyway, the best way would be to install the radiator, install the pump and then measure the distance and select a fan clutch based on the room you have left.

if the motor is in the car, and you had the radiator sitting there, you could take your measures or mock everything up and know for sure.

but, because it's the old style waterpump, and it doesn't have an extended shaft along with the reasonable thickness of the core on the radiator, i'd hazard a guess that you'll be fine with a low profile fan clutch.
 
FYI: on my 66 barracuda with the 273 and factory cast iron pump and factory radiator with factory fan shroud for AC. (I realize it is 100% different than your set up.) I got a factory style clutch fan to work. When I get to my shop today I can get the measurements. I used an 18” factory clutch fan from a Dakota with a four bolt flange. So I assume that it came from like a 96 style Dakota with the v8. 88 Jeep wrangler with a straight 6 I was told also fits. Very short mount shaft and the 18” fan blades clear the not so wide radiator and shroud of the early Abodies. Hope this helps you. Look up the specs. There are clutch fans out there that will work.
Syleng1
 
You will hate yourself if you buy the 2947. There is almost no room to get the water pump bolts in. I had to locktite studs in the water pump and use nuts to hold the fan clutch on. Very difficult.

You shouldn’t need the 2947 if you run the 69 and back cast water pump. It is about 3/4 inch shorter than the 70 and up aluminum one.

Many aftermarket radiators are thicker than stock and are positioned closer to the engine. Do you homework Before you buy.
 
Probably. Why would you run a 3 row, when there are THOUSANDS of online articles and forum threads that all agree the two row with two BIG tubes cools the best? Did you just somehow miss that? When you start stacking rows in front of each other, you reduce the cooling efficiency because you start blocking the rows in the back from air flow. It's been proven time and again that two 1" or 1.25" rows of tubes has the best cooling capacity in most cases. Also, Champion is by FAR not the best brand of radiator. Good luck with your decisions.
 
Mike69cuda said:
You will hate yourself if you buy the 2947. There is almost no room to get the water pump bolts in. I had to locktite studs in the water pump and use nuts to hold the fan clutch on. Very difficult.

You shouldn’t need the 2947 if you run the 69 and back cast water pump. It is about 3/4 inch shorter than the 70 and up aluminum one.

Many aftermarket radiators are thicker than stock and are positioned closer to the engine. Do you homework Before you buy.
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He may not have room for even that if Champion is true to their crappy ways and positioned the radiator too far toward the engine on the brackets. Almost every single one I've seen is like that.
 
junkyardhero said:
it lists the core thickness as 2.25" but i don't know if that accounts for any stand off from the mounting brackets-- if there is any. the technical data doesn't show that detail.

anyway, the best way would be to install the radiator, install the pump and then measure the distance and select a fan clutch based on the room you have left.

if the motor is in the car, and you had the radiator sitting there, you could take your measures or mock everything up and know for sure.

but, because it's the old style waterpump, and it doesn't have an extended shaft along with the reasonable thickness of the core on the radiator, i'd hazard a guess that you'll be fine with a low profile fan clutch.
Click to expand...
The technical data doesn't show it, because each one is different because they come from CHINA and they have no rhyme or reason as to their assembly. And unfortunately, most of them are assembled in such a way as to move the radiator too far towards the engine on the brackets and take precious space needed for any decent clutch fan setup. ESPECIALLY with the China made three row radiators. I had a three row Champion in Vixen for a while and although it fit and worked, the fit was HORRIBLE. I hated.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Probably. Why would you run a 3 row, when there are THOUSANDS of online articles and forum threads that all agree the two row with two BIG tubes cools the best? Did you just somehow miss that? When you start stacking rows in front of each other, you reduce the cooling efficiency because you start blocking the rows in the back from air flow. It's been proven time and again that two 1" or 1.25" rows of tubes has the best cooling capacity in most cases. Also, Champion is by FAR not the best brand of radiator. Good luck with your decisions.
Click to expand...
I remember way back we used to fight to get the big block 4 core radiators!!!
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
I remember way back we used to fight to get the big block 4 core radiators!!!
Click to expand...
Well, the factory Chrysler radiators are a different animal. Their cores in the 3 and 4 row are high efficiency cores. They have more fins per inch than the standard radiators do. All these China radiators don't. That's why I TRY to advise people against them. They aren't ALL bad, but it's a crap shoot to get one that SOMETHING isn't wrong with, whether it does not handle the heat transfer or something doesn't fit right.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well, the factory Chrysler radiators are a different animal. Their cores in the 3 and 4 row are high efficiency cores. They have more fins per inch than the standard radiators do. All these China radiators don't. That's why I TRY to advise people against them. They aren't ALL bad, but it's a crap shoot to get one that SOMETHING isn't wrong with, whether it does not handle the heat transfer or something doesn't fit right.
Click to expand...
When I was in the Air Force, one of the guys in the barracks needed money and wanted to sell me his 71 Polara 440 car that used to be an Arizona Highway Patrol interceptor. I got it for $200! It had a 4 core radiator that I immediately put into my 69 Charger 440. The day after I bought it, the guy and his friend were camped on my doorstep begging for that 4 core. He had a 70 Challenger 440 and needed the extra cooling. Great memories!
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
When I was in the Air Force, one of the guys in the barracks needed money and wanted to sell me his 71 Polara 440 car that used to be an Arizona Highway Patrol interceptor. I got it for $200! It had a 4 core radiator that I immediately put into my 69 Charger 440. The day after I bought it, the guy and his friend were camped on my doorstep begging for that 4 core. He had a 70 Challenger 440 and needed the extra cooling. Great memories!
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Sounds like some good memories! Thanks for your service!
 
Mike69cuda said:
You will hate yourself if you buy the 2947. There is almost no room to get the water pump bolts in. I had to locktite studs in the water pump and use nuts to hold the fan clutch on. Very difficult.

You shouldn’t need the 2947 if you run the 69 and back cast water pump. It is about 3/4 inch shorter than the 70 and up aluminum one.

Many aftermarket radiators are thicker than stock and are positioned closer to the engine. Do you homework Before you buy.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you !

Yes the only thing i have bought is the radiator. Havent gotten the water pump or clutch fan

I cant seem to find an 8 propeller water pump with the correct side outlet any suggestions ?
 
I think Rock auto has the 8 blade water pumps. Also make sure your water pump is about 120% over driven. The water pump pulley should be smaller than the crank pulley.
 
Mike69cuda said:
Also make sure your water pump is about 120% over driven. The water pump pulley should be smaller than the crank pulley.
Click to expand...

Do you know of a single v-groove set that overdrives the water pump? The only sets I've been able to find are for A/C applications with a stack of grooves on the crank pulley, or the serpentine sets from CVF.
 
For a bodies (at least) the ac cars had 6 inch water pump pulleys and 7 inch crank pulleys. (approximate sizes). I don’t think the non ac cars had the same size pulleys. The water pump pulley I have is two groove, but I only use one. I have power steering and ac, so I use the multi grove pulleys.

The whole pulley thing was a real goat rope for me, if I had it to do over, I might just buy a serpentine setup and be done with it.
 
Mike69cuda said:
For a bodies (at least) the ac cars had 6 inch water pump pulleys and 7 inch crank pulleys. (approximate sizes). I don’t think the non ac cars had the same size pulleys. The water pump pulley I have is two groove, but I only use one. I have power steering and ac, so I use the multi grove pulleys.

The whole pulley thing was a real goat rope for me, if I had it to do over, I might just buy a serpentine setup and be done with it.
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Yeah, it sucks that the only overdriven option in a v-groove is the ridiculous multigroove setup. A company would a sell a **** ton of pulley sets if they made a single groove set that overdrives the water pump.
 
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