for the body guys

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ir3333

ir3333

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OK...current project has been stripped to bare metal with 80 grit sandpaper.There is still a small amount of metal repair.
I have been told at least 5 different ways to proceed.
....what's your procedure to finish paint?
 
From bare metal, a good epoxy primer like PPG DP90 will rustproof the car as long as you don't sand it off. From there, depending on the quality of the metalfinishing, you will need a good primer or maybe high build primer and maybe a bit of filler to block the car and get it straight and level before paint. Then prep for paint as usual, and shoot the color/clear.
 
Garry in AZ said:
From bare metal, a good epoxy primer like PPG DP90 will rustproof the car as long as you don't sand it off. From there, depending on the quality of the metalfinishing, you will need a good primer or maybe high build primer and maybe a bit of filler to block the car and get it straight and level before paint. Then prep for paint as usual, and shoot the color/clear.
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Do not let bare metal sit. Prime with epoxy primer immediately. If it's been exposed to the air you will probably
need to re sand and use wax and grease remover after sanding. If the body is fairly straight and does not have a lot
of body work follow up with catalyzed primer over the epoxy primer per instructions for the products. You will have to address repair work later, but get bare metal coated ASAP. In future do a panel at a time or nothing more than you can
immediately do.
 
80 is really course, you need to get all the scratches out of the metal first, DP90 epoxy wont shrink like regular primer and your not suppose to sand it. I would do all the metal work first.
 
brian6pac said:
80 is really course, you need to get all the scratches out of the metal first, DP90 epoxy wont shrink like regular primer and your not suppose to sand it. I would do all the metal work first.
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80 grit is just fine on bare metal, and gives the primer a good "tooth" especially on a DA sander. Metal doesn't shrink. Paint substrates shrink.
 
Anyone used Eastwood Fast Etch ....removes rust and leaves bare metal covered in zinc oxide preventing rust from forming on bare metal?
 
Lee gives good advice in both quotes. Even in sunny inland Bay Area weather, my panels would develop surface rust overnight, even in the garage.
 
Lee Robinson said:
80 grit is just fine on bare metal, and gives the primer a good "tooth" especially on a DA sander. Metal doesn't shrink. Paint substrates shrink.
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I have been talking to different body shops.Some say epoxy and the other half say regular 2 part urethane primer is fine?
 
I think you will find that a good epoxy has such strong adhering qualities. Body filler over that. Filler can need time to shrink. Filler should always be sealer afterward shrink too. Some fillers are way better than others. Cleaning any metal with an acid can react with some epoxies. If the metal had been rusted, espcilaly pitted, I take to bare metal, use flap disc/wire cup, and treat with phosphoric acid. Neutralize if necessary. Be sure the acid etch has been neutralized to be safe.
Any thing courser than 80 grit will leave scratches 80 can too if not carefull. Like said 80 grit gives a good tooth, but epoxy will stick to cat **** even.
 
all great info guys.
after the 80 grit i've been told to go over everything with 120 and then prime, but priming the 80 grit next will save that step? (and quite a bit of work)
 
ir3333 said:
all great info guys.
after the 80 grit i've been told to go over everything with 120 and then prime, but priming the 80 grit next will save that step? (and quite a bit of work)
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If you used regular sanding paper it might leave a deep scratch. If you used a DA don't worry about it. Steel
wears out paper pretty fast. Just degrease the metal good to remove any residue and skin oil which can come back
like a thumb print. I know this from experience.
 
What about applying filler in the cold months ? Will there be issues if the shop is only around 50 F* ? I am using Rage Gold.
 
if i use epoxy, how long do i wait before spraying hi bulid primer?
...how long i can leave epoxy primer without requiring sanding?
 
ir3333 said:
if i use epoxy, how long do i wait before spraying hi bulid primer?
...how long i can leave epoxy primer without requiring sanding?
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Depends on manufacturer. SPI epoxy cures in 24 hours, filler and/or 2K needs to go on woth in 7 days. Otherwise, epoxy needs to be scuffed with 180g
 
OK,thanks.
I would certainly read the manufacturers instructions if i use any epoxy.
Trying to get some general knowledge.I'm really hoping to paint this project myself.
 
ir3333 said:
OK,thanks.
I would certainly read the manufacturers instructions if i use any epoxy.
Trying to get some general knowledge.I'm really hoping to paint this project myself.
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I hear ya. I was in the same boat as you about 2 years ago. Never picked up a spray gun before. I read tons (mainly here) and SPI's site and tech sheets.

I stripped the car to bare metal, epoxy, and 2k primed. primed. I am working on blocking it now. I did lay down the paint in the bay and trunk.

Pics for inspiration. Sorry for the order.

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I will add READ the man. tech sheet!!!! Products vary. It will tell you the size nozzle, the pressue open gun, etc.
Use good ventilation, respirator, and be sure you are not allergic to the stuff, IT has killed more than a few souls!!
Remember all paint, screw ups can be corrected, one way or another.
 
There's an old body man saying. It says" if you can live with it " then you're good.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I hear ya. I was in the same boat as you about 2 years ago. Never picked up a spray gun before. I read tons (mainly here) and SPI's site and tech sheets.

I stripped the car to bare metal, epoxy, and 2k primed. primed. I am working on blocking it now. I did lay down the paint in the bay and trunk.

Pics for inspiration. Sorry for the order.

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Proof it's very possible but many lack the confidence to try.
Well done!
 
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I pulled the old filler out of my 1/4 that was done back in the late 70s as you can see they filled over bare metal and even the worm holes they put in it had no rust. The filler was real thick and a sloppy job. It held up after all these years.
Sorry pictures not quite in order.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
View attachment 1715264274 View attachment 1715264275 View attachment 1715264276 View attachment 1715264278 View attachment 1715264277 I pulled the old filler out of my 1/4 that was done back in the late 70s as you can see they filled over bare metal and even the worm holes they put in it had no rust. The filler was real thick and a sloppy job. It held up after all these years.
Sorry pictures not quite in order.
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Oh yeah, I know about filler. Lol. Grinded it all out and had the fender pulled out with a stud gun.

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