???? for the motor heads

-

earthmover

in the tire smoke
Joined
Sep 21, 2007
Messages
2,401
Reaction score
172
Location
nc
just want to get a few things done before I di I need to get so info from the mopar guys...some may remem. I'm putting my 340 back in but made some changes and found some things out..
old set up
340 30''
dome top pistons on h beam rods
comp cam 306 555/555 magnum cam
j heads the flow 240/140 @500 adj 273 rockers
x-cel intake/950hp
1 5/8 headers
mopar dist. locked out
727 rev. val body/9 1/2 dyn (4500/5000)
4.57 gears with 29.5/10.5
car ran a best of 7.70 @89.9mph and 1.77 60'
new ss springs and mp drag shocks outy back comp 3 way up front

when I took the motor apart I saw that the chain had a lot of slack in it for some reason,got new chain same thing.
now I took the block to get checked out bores where out from top to bottom for some reason and the rings had anywhere from 20/35 thou gaps just in the top rings....so i started over and I'm doing it myself for fun and to learn things...anyway here is the new build
same block cheked and re honed to spec340 30''
same dome tops (about 11.1 comp) and rods
comp cam xe282 520/540 lift 282/290 and 244/252 @50
same heads 240/140@500 new 1.5 roller rockers
same intake x-cel may gasket match
1 5/8 headers and carb
727 rev val 9 1/2 verta 4500/500
4.57 gears and 27/10.5 qtp this time out
add a timing chain tensioner to it this time and it seems to work great
now my ??? are on the carb what jets should I start out with and should I run the power val's...my carb is list # 80496 but I dont think my air bleeds are the ones you can take out and change from looking at them..also what timing should I set this thing up on thanks for any help sorry so long:cheers:
 
Put the carb back to stock settings would be my suggestion.
Go here and get the jetting for the carb.
http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp

Race only, no street driving, square jet it. Street car, try to use a power valve up front.

The carb has adjustable air bleeds.
 
hay guys hows everything going..thanks for the link crackedback...what do you guys think this thing will run this time.....I also got a alum. radi coming for it to try out..just want to get the most that I can out of it this time plan on something a little diff. for the next build......also should I adv/retard or just degree and install by the card..........hay Bob I still ahve your # been working a lot then days off I home work on the motor a little thats it back to work.........looking forward to meeting you, also I hope that my son and i can get this thing going soon may go to track if so would love to have you come with us...worked on your hot rod .:cheers:
 
Timing - get it to idle with about 15* BTDC, keep feeding timing, keep idle constant, until rpm stops increasing. Get a reading. Or do it with a vacuum gauge, RPM constant feed lead until highest vacuum is reached with least adv. Back out 1" by retarding. If the engine will start when hot at the highest lead point, then lock it down. If not back of 2* until it starts.

My friends build was very similar except ede heads that were only mildly cleaned up. Made about 450-460hp with a victor 340. At 3200# or so, it should run in the 11's pretty easy, low 11's. His car ran 11.79 with a REALLY bad tune in Vegas.
 
hay thanks crackedback for your info I have been out for a few days working night and day just got to read thats good a 11 will work do you see any thing I should change??????..
 
hay thanks crackedback for your info I have been out for a few days working night and day just got to read thats good a 11 will work do you see any thing I should change??????..

I believe those small tube headers will cost you.

I had a 360 with 11.75 compression, ported J's and a .510 Comp cam and it built so much crankcase pressure it pushed oil out the breathers. 1 and 7/8 headers solved the oil problem, but it never did run right (not enough cam).

you're on the right track, this bunch will help you go like stink.
 
yea I got a set of the 1 7/8 and my try them out after I get things going just came in from working on it today got the inside springs out now I have to get a push rod checker the ones I have are a little long no treads showing on the adj...now 1 more ???? I run a elec. fuel pump do I still have to leave the ecentric ( I think thats right) in the motor or can I just take it out....
 
earthmover,
How do convert the 1/8 mile time to 1/4? I'm interested in knowing because I'd like to build something like you combo.
 
I'd leave the ecentric on. I spaces the timing gear on the cam snount.
 
-
Back
Top