Frame connectors

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if you get bolt ins, just bolt them in..then weld them. 2X the retention. Mine were plug welds in the rear, butt welds in the front. And I cut out a section of the front brace for the E-brake line as it was right were it sucked.
 
I think bolt in frame connectors are a complete and utter joke... First you have to have damn near exact holes with exact fit bolts or going to get loose... And when the frame starts twerking it's going to get loose LOL... you're just poking through thin sheet metal that's eventually going to bend under the stress...
Not only do you have to eventually weld them in to get them to actually do something you have to start by paying some astronomical price for them and bolting them in too...LOL
You can always do it right the second time LOL...
 
Back in the 1970's I don't remember any mention of welded frame connectors. Back then I had the popular bolt-in version on my '65 Valiant bracket racer. Over 200 drag runs and cruising downtown on the weekends. Don't remember any noises, failures, or problems. Sorry, don't have any photos of them. There was a company called "For 340's Only" that may or may not have been selling 'em during those times.

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dibbons said:
Back in the 1970's I don't remember any mention of welded frame connectors. Back then I had the popular bolt-in version on my '65 Valiant bracket racer. Over 200 drag runs and cruising downtown on the weekends. Don't remember any noises, failures, or problems. Sorry, don't have any photos of them. There was a company called "For 340's Only" that may or may not have been selling 'em during those times.

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273 Magnum. Perfect! LOL
 
4 half inch nuts for each bucket seat or 4 for the whole bench.. easy?.. two three quarter inch bolts for the seat belt connections.. 4 Phillip screws on each side for the door sells...
One Phillips screw free to kick panel...
The bottom of the back seat just pops out... With a console or floor shifter a few more screws... Then just pick the carpet up and take it out... This should take less than an half hour if you're talking a drink of soda between each step...
Then the interior will be ripped out...:rolleyes:...
 
dibbons said:
Back in the 1970's I don't remember any mention of welded frame connectors. Back then I had the popular bolt-in version on my '65 Valiant bracket racer. Over 200 drag runs and cruising downtown on the weekends. Don't remember any noises, failures, or problems. Sorry, don't have any photos of them. There was a company called "For 340's Only" that may or may not have been selling 'em during those times.

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That's a drag car and was probably loud and rattling anyways... This guy has a street car and probably would notice real quickly and loose part... Great job giving advice on something you can't remember from 50 years ago but nice that you admitted it....
At least your comment was a nice excuse to post a picture of that old car you had "AGAIN"....
 
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I welded mine to rear pan but you dont have to. If you did you only have to pop out rear seat bottom and pull back the carpet to plug weld. I cup one hand over tip of mig welder to sheild sparks and have fire blanket and or wet towells for protection.
 
Well I just got off the phone with magnum and the girl was no help at all,she don’t have a set for early A body and couldn’t say if a set from 67 would work,
So there’s my first brick wall....
 
Im amazed ,everyone that advertised they sell them does not have them or any plans to get them....
J-par has the right idea.build them .
 
Mouse action said:
Im amazed ,everyone that advertised they sell them does not have them or any plans to get them....
J-par has the right idea.build them .
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once they get you and 49 other people to pre-order, they'll be happy to make them :BangHead: looks like you need to turn this into a "what welder should i buy" thread :D
 
Kendog 170 said:
Bought tubing and welded in. also plug welded to rear floor pan but mine was a 68 Dart.Also had to be creative with Emergency brake cable. I welded a tube through the connector but don't have pics of that.

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Dont need to weld a tube through one. You might still have rubbing and fitment issues, just drill and relocate the cable to inboard of the subframe connector.

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J Glenn said:
If you go the make-your-own with square tubing route, I don't think you'd need to re-route the parking brake cable. That can be a PITA because there's not perfect solution....
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Page 2 post #44 your perfect solution if you relocate it inboard of the framerail, and run it close to the framerail like I did. And yes you still have to reroute the cable as it will hit the subframe connector going over it, or you have to run it through the connector. Neither is an ideal situation. Moving it all inboard of that whole deal is ideal
 
I mocked it up with zee bar and clutch linkage so it does work with that. Exhaust system runs inboard of the torsion bars. This runs between torsion bar and framerail. So maybe 6"-8" of clearance. Note in my 3rd pic the torsion bar lug in the crossmember and the hump in the crossmember for the exhaust pipe on that side to go through.
 
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My 65 had a couple tubes bolted to floor,and a couple welds on either end. I finished it off by welding to floor,braces to rockers and seat supports. Not real beefy but anything will help. I prefer to have my seats attatched to more than a couple layers of sheet metal. Rode in my buddy’s 69 dart 340/4 speed, no frame connectors. It flexes,i can feel it when he hammers on it. That car is pristine,and i dont think he wants to do it.
 
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