Fuel sending unit gasket

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72smallairparticler

72smallairparticler

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Well I found my culprit for the gas leak when the tank has more than 3 gallons. New gasket from DMT installed. That job is not my favorite…

Anyone have recommendations on testing the new gasket?

Or am I stuck with filling it back and up crossing my fingers?

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Personally, haven't had any luck with any of them. The gasket or the lock ring. So I use a gasket, but use an aircraft fuel tank sealer with it, it's called Pro Seal. It's a 2 part sealer, impervious to fuel. Never a leak in two cars. I got tired of screwing around with leaks, that's how I dealt with it. It can be released with a heat gun, but probably not in my lifetime.
 
To your question, filler up.

You should get more than 3 gallons into the tank before the fuel gets to the sender.

I replaced my sender with a nos unit.

1st fill-up leaked.


I drained down the tank and took the lock ring off, I had used the new gasket but things were loose with it. I ended up putting the old, but in good condition, and the new gasket on. That did the trick no more leak in 4 years
 
New gasket, old Ring. Done deal. And the Proper spanner Wrench, not a screwdriver and hammer! Lol
I dig the Aircraft sealer...
 
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I haven’t had any issues with the DMT gaskets. If you have to use a new reproduction lock ring you can tighten up the lock ring by bending the tangs on the lock ring little bit. You want nice firm pressure on the gasket when it locks into place. You can overdo it though, don’t want to push the gasket out of place.
 
Testing you’re stuck by filling it up and hoping for the best. Using a DMT gasket, you shouldn’t have any problems.
 
I believe that one of the problems with new tanks is that the metal is a different grade or quality. I have a new tank that came with my '69, it leaked, the spot welded retainer area the the sender, gasket and lock ring were deformed. I could have sealed it with the pro seal, but really didn't understand, got a new stainless tank, had the same issue after about 6 months. So I fixed my problem with pro seal. Hats off to those of you that got it done with the parts available now.
Good luck!
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I believe that one of the problems with new tanks is that the metal is a different grade or quality. I have a new tank that came with my '69, it leaked, the spot welded retainer area the the sender, gasket and lock ring were deformed. I could have sealed it with the pro seal, but really didn't understand, got a new stainless tank, had the same issue after about 6 months. So I fixed my problem with pro seal. Hats off to those of you that got it done with the parts available now.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Who's Tank? Wtf? I'd send that crap back!
 
I've always used the factory lock ring with anyone's gasket and not had a problem. I did have a problem with aftermarket lock rings. I've got like 3 aftermarket ones if anyone needs one.....
 
Do not know the origin of the steel tank that came with my '69. I got both stainless tanks from Van's in Wisconsin. At some point we just have to play the cards that we are dealt. I used the lock ring and gasket that came with the tanks.
I have a lock ring wrench. In the beginning, I tried different gaskets and thicker lock ring offered by Mega Parts. They didn't work. That's why I used the Pro Seal. We do what we gotta do to solve problems. I have 2 of the new junk senders in the attic too!
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Do not know the origin of the steel tank that came with my '69. I got both stainless tanks from Van's in Wisconsin. At some point we just have to play the cards that we are dealt. I used the lock ring and gasket that came with the tanks.
I have a lock ring wrench. In the beginning, I tried different gaskets and thicker lock ring offered by Mega Parts. They didn't work. That's why I used the Pro Seal. We do what we gotta do to solve problems. I have 2 of the new junk senders in the attic too!
Click to expand...

I didn’t have any issue with my Spectra brand replacement tanks. The factory lock rings work best, but I have definitely used the aftermarket lock rings with the adjustment to the tabs I described earlier.

It’s pretty simple, a set of pliers and a little tweaking to the lock ring tabs can tighten or loosen the tension on the locking ring.
 
Thanks to FABO I did bend the lock ring rising spots with needle nose pliers to increase the pressure. Didn’t have the correct tool but took my time tapping it on alternating directions to keep it centered and didn’t overdo it.

Will check the seal with a fillup! Thanks all!
 
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