Fuel tank sending unit

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70Duster340

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I am installing a new sending unit in my new tank. When I turn the locking ring, does it somehow lock in place, or do I just push it until the tangs on the ring run up again the tabs on the tank? I want to be sure of no leaks, and I don't want to have to drop the tank once I get it installed.

Thanks!
 
Do you have your old ( assuming OEM) sender. DO NOT TOSS IT! I would be interested in it working or not.

The lock ring has 3 nubs on it. The tank ring has 3 sets of 2 nubs. the ring nub gets turned till each of the ring nubs are between the tank nubs.

This image is not what your sender is going to look like but it will give you an idea, also the nubs on this tank are one recess rather then two nubs seperated by a space as I was thinking.

Properly seated
Screenshot_20210317-221855.png


I highly recommend this tool, you can do it with a screwdriver but the right tool for the job is always better.
images.jpeg
 
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Thanks for the reply and the pic. That helps greatly.
Yeah, I still have my OEM unit. It worked before it was removed, I just felt better installing a new sending unit in the new tank.
 
For me the original locking ring worked better than the cheap ring that came with my sender.
 
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70Duster340 said:
Thanks for the reply and the pic. That helps greatly.
Yeah, I still have my OEM unit. It worked before it was removed, I just felt better installing a new sending unit in the new tank.
Click to expand...

how did your fuel level gauge act?
there is a very good chance it will not work properly with a new sending unit

and like others mentioned, use the stock locking ring, it is thicker then the new ones and creates a better seal
 
new rings are thinner so they tend to not compress the gasket as much resulting in a possible leak. The new senders are somewhat generic in the sensing unit so they may not reflect whats in the tank accurately. Grab a older Ford if no Mopar......

Empty Full Vehicle Application
73 ohms 10 ohms Most older Mopar
0 ohms 30 ohms Most pre-'65 GM
0 ohms 90 ohms Most GM 65-present
16 ohms 158 ohms Most '87-present Fords
73 ohms 8-12 ohms Most Fords before '87 and most Chrysler
240 ohms 33 ohms Use with 3262 sender
10 ohms 70 ohms Ford Bi-Metallic Gauges (pre-1987 F-Series Trucks)
15 ohms 160 ohms Ford Magnetic Gauges (1987 and later F-Series Trucks)

fill it up until it stops and then look at your gauge. It is what it is.....full is least amount of resistant so at full it should read least ~10 and empty it should read most ~73. Id run run it dry and read the resistance and then adjust the resistance value to read 70-73 on the meter with a variable resistance potentiometer (ie an old volume control) and then solder in a real 0.1% tolerance (purple band) compensation resistor. Full tank is an afterthought as you generally just fill it until the nozzle shuts off.
 
diymirage said:
how did your fuel level gauge act?
there is a very good chance it will not work properly with a new sending unit

and like others mentioned, use the stock locking ring, it is thicker then the new ones and creates a better seal
Click to expand...
I only have the OEM ring, so that's good. As far as I know, my old sending unit was still working when I removed the old tank. I just thought it was a good idea to replace it with a new one. I got the new one at the Chrysler Classic at Norwalk. I would hope that the vendor was a reputable one. It's been a while, so I really don't remember who it was, but they are a large vendor of Mopar parts.
 
70Duster340 said:
I only have the OEM ring, so that's good. As far as I know, my old sending unit was still working when I removed the old tank. I just thought it was a good idea to replace it with a new one. I got the new one at the Chrysler Classic at Norwalk. I would hope that the vendor was a reputable one. It's been a while, so I really don't remember who it was, but they are a large vendor of Mopar parts.
Click to expand...
The vendors use similar senders and like I said before, they are all inaccurate. Has nothing to do with reputable vendor or not. They sell what is produced.
 
If your old one worked, put it back in. The new ones are junk.
If your old one needs to be reconditioned, Instrument Specialties can help you.
Wolf & Company is an other one.
 
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CRUZE 418 said:
Wolf & Company is an other one
Click to expand...
That's the company I have heard only good things about.

Moderators... where does it say I can't offer to take a part off of a members hands in a post. Seems a bit too orwellian to me. There was no talk of price, I don't need a wanted ad as I'm not looking for one, I don't need a for sale ad as I'm not selling one.

I simply was saying OP would be better off having his oem sender rebuilt but if he doesn't want his old one I would be happy to take it.
 
If you ever read any.of the threads on electrical or fuel, you would know what we are talking about. The new sending units don't work. In the stickys, fuel or electrical, there is info on how to do the meter match if you choose to go that way.
 
Another question: the arm that contacts the fine wire winding has a very small hole in the dimple. From what I read on another post, that hole isn't supposed to be there. Can anyone offer a way to close the hole? It's very small. Can it just be soldered closed?

Thanks!
 
And yet another question. The resistor board was not connected to the bracket. Appears that the tiny rivet that holds the board to the bracket was corroded through. Can that be repaired?

Thanks!
 
70Duster340 said:
And yet another question. The resistor board was not connected to the bracket. Appears that the tiny rivet that holds the board to the bracket was corroded through. Can that be repaired?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
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