Fusible link plug connection

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gtgto

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How do I make the connection better at the fusible link plug? I can leave the lights on in the car and pull slightly on both ends of the connector and lose power to the entire vehicle. How can I improve the connection so it is a good connection all the time?
 
Which type of link? They're not all the same.
Either the retaining tab is loose, the crimp(s) are loose, the connector themselves are loose, or the mating connector's terminals has lost spring tension.
 
Which type of link? They're not all the same.
Either the retaining tab is loose, the crimp(s) are loose, the connector themselves are loose, or the mating connector's terminals has lost spring tension.
Fusible link.jpg

I am thinking the mating connectors have lost tension. Whatever the issue is its at the plug connection and not at the bulkhead. Is there a way to get the connection tighter?
 
View attachment 1715496410
I am thinking the mating connectors have lost tension. Whatever the issue is its at the plug connection and not at the bulkhead. Is there a way to get the connection tighter?
Maybe.
Disconnect the battery.
Disconnect the connector halfs (the outer shells).

The female terminal should be retained with a small tab.
The male terminal is retained by a sharp corner of the terminal.

You can try to retension those. That's not too difficult
The female should also have decent tension on the male tab. A little more difficult to adjust but you try. If its tootight you'll have to gently open each side up again.

If the wire crimps bad on either, the answer is no. You'll need to remove the wires and install new Packard 58 or 56 terminals.
I've salvaged old terminals but only when I had to. Better salvaging than new only when the new has a fit issue - like being loose in the connector and backing out. :(

Photos in post 8
1969 Dodge Dart - Engine Compartment Main Bulkhead Connector
 
^ What Mattax said. You can buy Packard terminal removal tools. Evans Wiring has fusible links and Packard terminals. That bright pink wire at the top right looks sketchy, strands hanging out a bit.

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Good eye with the pink wire!
OP can you post pics of the link once you get it apart, curious to style of connectors
^ What Mattax said. You can buy Packard terminal removal tools. Evans Wiring has fusible links and Packard terminals. That bright pink wire at the top right looks sketchy, strands hanging out a bit.

View attachment 1715496649
 
Good eye with the pink wire!
OP can you post pics of the link once you get it apart, curious to style of connectors
I don't have the proper tools to get the connectors apart. I might try later with other tools I do own. As far as the pink wire I'll check that out. I think that wire is for the + side of my electric choke.
 
As far as I know, there are no special tools for seperating the connectors. Use something to lever the latch and with the best grip you can manage - pull them apart.
upload_2020-3-30_14-56-56.png


For the bulkheads, same concept.
question on the main harness plug on firewall

Take your time. Its often slow going.
 
As far as I know, there are no special tools for seperating the connectors. Use something to lever the latch and with the best grip you can manage - pull them apart.
View attachment 1715497006

For the bulkheads, same concept.
question on the main harness plug on firewall

Take your time. Its often slow going.
I forgot to take pictures but I managed to get the connector apart and then I also took the wires out of each connector. The metal was all crusty and rusted. I sprayed them with electronic cleaner spray and a wire brush and they were shining when I was done. I bent the tabs and popped the wires back into there respective connectors and plugged them into each other. With the battery connected I grabbed both sides of the connection and jiggled the crap out of them and the lights never went off or changed brightness. I don't have any dielectric grease but I will get some and put some on the connections but I think that problem is now in the past. I might even take it out for a little test drive tomorrow.
 
thumbs_up-gif.gif

I wouldn't worry about dielectric grease there. Its really for additional insulation on the high voltage wires - spark plug and coil wires. In theory it should help seal terminals like you just cleaned. But my own observation has been that its not that effective a moisture barrier in that type of situation.

When you get a chance, do the same cleaning to the bulkhead terminals. Its a bit more time consuming because you have to keep track of the wire and cavities, etc. Make a drawing and take some photos. If the foam seal is shot, DMT makes and sells new ones.

The most critical ones in the bulkhead are the other end of the fusible link (battery feed) and the heavy black wire (alternator feed). The alternator feed carries all the current for running the car, plus any current needed for recharging the battery.
 
View attachment 1715497288
I wouldn't worry about dielectric grease there. Its really for additional insulation on the high voltage wires - spark plug and coil wires. In theory it should help seal terminals like you just cleaned. But my own observation has been that its not that effective a moisture barrier in that type of situation.

When you get a chance, do the same cleaning to the bulkhead terminals. Its a bit more time consuming because you have to keep track of the wire and cavities, etc. Make a drawing and take some photos. If the foam seal is shot, DMT makes and sells new ones.

The most critical ones in the bulkhead are the other end of the fusible link (battery feed) and the heavy black wire (alternator feed). The alternator feed carries all the current for running the car, plus any current needed for recharging the battery.
I would like to start collecting all the parts to clean up all the wires in the bulkead connections. One of the 3 harness connectors has a broken tab locking it in place. Does DMT sell the block connectors too? I should probably get going on it now with all the free time i have in isolation and my job has me working from home. Thanks for your help
 
I've seen them in various places. I bought the one I needed off of ebay. Pretty sure the seller was FM Mopars or something like that. If you have the part number for the connector that's helpful in an ebay search.
I don't think DMT had them - he's mostly selling seals and hardboard reproductions he makes himself.
 
If you are talking about the whole bulkhead connector, I think that Dante's has both the piece in the firewall (from the inside) and the three connectors on the outside (they are year specific). Your instinct on the dielectric grease is absolutely spot on. People ***** and moan about the bulkhead connectors, but hardly anybody takes the time to clean the connections and PACK THEM WITH DIELECTRC GREASE TO KEEP THEM FROM CORRODING AGAIN!!!! once every 20 years would probably be enough. If you told somebody at Ma Mopar in 1970 that we'd still be driving these things in 2020 they would have laughed their asses off and told you that you were delusional. Why would they worry about something like corroding bulkhead connections when they assumed none of these cars would last long enough for that to be a problem?
 
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