Fusible link?

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Fittrjoe

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Hello to all.
I’m trying to learn the wiring on my 67 Barracuda.
In the picture … the wire with the Q-tip on it … is that a proper fusible link?
It comes from the Bulkhead just like the wiring schematic shows.
Wiring is not my strong suit so I may be asking alot if questions. Learning up prior to removing and cleaning Bulkhead connectors and on YouTube UTG said fusible link is super important
Thanks again for all the help fellow Mopar Heads

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The yellow tagged blue wire is the actual "fuse". The black plastic is the connector. You need to isolate the wire that runs from the bulkhead connector to the single black connector if you have one. It looks like yours does not have the connector shell on that wire you are pointing to. You need to open that harness up and inspect. My car had factory fusible link, and a shorted horn wire burnt all the wiring it touched in the time it took for the fusible link to open up. After much repair and wire replacement I installed a fuse holder and standard fuse instead of the factory fusible link. Many do an ammeter bypass modification to the wiring to remove this large wire from the connector and route it outside the connector through the firewall.
 
Just so we are all on the same page...

A fusable link is NOT a fuse. There is no removable or replaceable fuse. It is a wire that will melt if too much current is forced through it.

Think of it as a sacrificial wire to protect the rest of the wires.

As grjammer said if the terminal connected to the red wire coming from the post on the starter relay then the black plastic cover is missing.

The blue fusable link wire is short, about 6 inches, it goes directly into the bulkhead connector and connects to the heavy red wire that goes to the post on the starter relay.

Red goes into the bulkhead connector
Green connects to the heavy red wire from the starter relay post.

If the fusable link is blown the entire wire will be melted

Btw the blue tag is just an identification marker. It is not a fuse.


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This is typical of what a blown fusable link looks like.
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Why do you need to know which wire is the fusable link?
 
Thanks for these detailed responses Guys
Starting to make sense now.
Previous owner did Ameter bypass and added Volt gauge /also i just did the Crackedback headlight relay harness—- huge difference in lighting
I’m going to pull Brake booster and valve cover to provide access to Bulkhead soon and clean terminals
I am having Voltage drop somewhere in harness I believe based on symptoms/ pulsing from 13.5 to 15 Volts - it DOES settle at 14 Volts with steady Highway cruising
Alternator and VR recently replaced and added dedicated ground to VR
Anyway gotta check all connections for corrosion
Uggh the joys of owning a 67 with mostly original witing
The Bulkhead connectors look really clean and definitely not melted at all
Car spent its whole life in SOCAL
 
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Fittrjoe said:
I am having Voltage drop somewhere in harness I believe based on symptoms/ pulsing from 13.5 to 15 Volts - it DOES settle at 14 Volts with steady Highway cruising
Alternator and VR recently replaced and added dedicated ground to VR
Click to expand...
What you are describing sounds pretty normal.

At low engine speeds, like idle the stock alternators have a hard time keeping up with demand.

The rebuilders sometimes put a 2.75 or 3" pulley where a 2.5" should be. That compounds the issue by slowing the alternator more.
 
Sure thing/ pics of VR… I mounted it to fender ( pulled washer bottle, which some will hate) didn’t like where it was on fire wall… gave it a dedicated ground … ran better immediately.
BTW pulley diameter is 2.625”

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Be absolutely certain on those blue ones (actually any of them) that you scrape paint off the mounting holes and use star locks to insure the case is grounded

If you have that done, the rest is very likely harness voltage drop. You can check for that by temporarily rigging a test wire, come off something 'solid' like the start relay big stud, run a fused wire over and hook direct to the VR ignition connection. Be sure to unhook it when you shut off the engine.

If that test wire "fixes" the problem, then that added relay I told you about should settle things down
 
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