did you get it out yet?I built dozens of those trannies.Never had a problem.I have 3 common prybars in my toolbox.One of them always works.The key is in the shape of the spoon end, and how you secure the retainer.It takes quite some force to remove.I use a vice and shoprags to anchor the retainer, and insert the prybar under the metal part of the seal(which is buried under all that rubber) so that it lifts at the 2 edges of the spoon and the handle is at 90* to the jaw opening.Some times you have to drive the spoon in with a small hammer.Then it pops right out.If the retainer gets damaged its no big deal,just clean it up before installing the new seal.Its way harder to successfully install the new seal than to remove it.And the new seal often has a thin rubber or paint ring around the outside of it which seals it,so no other sealant reqd. The prying operation has to be done at the 90*,which is usually towards your chest, because that is the only way that the retainer will hold still and remain anchored in the visejaws. If you dont have a suitable prybar, an alternate tool can be made from an old flat screwdriver.Chose one with a tip about 1/4 inch wide.Grind the blade down to almost a knife edge, then grind the corners off so that it becomes U shaped. then regrind it to knife-edge. Sometimes if the screwdriver is soft enough to not break, I would bend the tip up about 10*to 15* . This makes penetration easier.Now force the tip between the lower edge of the seal and the seatface in the retainer and it will pop right out.Congratulations. Now installing the new one is very tricky. I made an installer in a lathe. Whatever tool you use,be advised; it has to fit the seal cavity very closely and the driveface has to be flat and sharp edged around the perimeter.Then it will be pie. As to the rear seal, a deep-socket can be used but it better be sized just right or it may cut the dustboot. A better tool is to put an old tapered-bearing race or metal sleeve on there first. Dont forget to inspect the bushing. And as to the o-rings; they can be picked out/off. Lube the new ones before reassembly.Dont forget about the little seal in the speed-o housing, and the gasket on the reverse detent house and the reverse switches almost always leak, so I replace them as a matter of course. Lube the shift shaft o-rings with silicon grease and be very careful when reinstalling them. Make sure the vent-baffle is still up in the tailshaft housing. Also a little sealer on the retainer bolts.And the two special long-shoulder bolts in the sidecover and their designated locations.And if you changed the front(input) bearing be sure to reinstall the reduced diameter outer locating ring from the original bearing. Dont ask me about this.I use Dextron II, for fast shifting, but your brass-rings better be working. Otherwise I mix it with gearoil. Start with 50%.My personal A-833 is heavily modified and is lightning fast even at 7200rpm. And it doesnt miss-shift anymore either.Stock it was a slug to shift.Remember to tighten the drainplug. I mean it. Cheers, AJ
