I am about to pull the trigger on getting a Gear Vendors OD for my '67 383 Barracuda. I know they just bolt into a B & E body but what about an A-body, is the tunnel just as wide as the B/E tunnels?
Gear Vendors in a '67 Barracuda, is tunnel clearancing required?
- Thread starter GRANCUDA
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DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
No, takes work.
I've just now looked up some on the forum to see what modifications need to be done & if you aren't trying to get the car down in the weeds it looks like it's a bolt in. I'm running super stock springs in factory hangers so it's pretty high in the back.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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If a manual trans;
1) the adapter they sell you is for a long shaft, So you have to convert your tranny.
2) the adapter has both B and E body shifter pads on it so you have to saw the top frontmost pad off.
3) the driveshaft will have to be shortened.
4) because the unit puts the rear yoke quite a bit further towards the back, it messes up your driveshaft angles. My partial solution was to jam the unit into the floorpan and add shims at the rear trans mount. By jamming it in there I found the witness marks in the tunnel,and,after pulling the unit down, I carefully pounded out an area suitable to receive it. Of course this required clearancing that front pad again.
5) is the shifter; the factory one won't fit any more. You can fabricate an adapter to bring the shifter back into the floor hole, or you can take this opportunity to move she shifter back between the buckets. Of course that will then require new shift rods.
6) is adjusting the pinion angle cuz now it's out of whack too.
7) is the speedo. They supply an adapter to take the drive from the GV but you have to get the right GM speedo gear.
8) is the special oil you need to run in it. Buy extra.
9) is locating and wiring their ECU, and that ugly-azz truck shifter
If an automatic
skip 1,2, and 5
1) the adapter they sell you is for a long shaft, So you have to convert your tranny.
2) the adapter has both B and E body shifter pads on it so you have to saw the top frontmost pad off.
3) the driveshaft will have to be shortened.
4) because the unit puts the rear yoke quite a bit further towards the back, it messes up your driveshaft angles. My partial solution was to jam the unit into the floorpan and add shims at the rear trans mount. By jamming it in there I found the witness marks in the tunnel,and,after pulling the unit down, I carefully pounded out an area suitable to receive it. Of course this required clearancing that front pad again.
5) is the shifter; the factory one won't fit any more. You can fabricate an adapter to bring the shifter back into the floor hole, or you can take this opportunity to move she shifter back between the buckets. Of course that will then require new shift rods.
6) is adjusting the pinion angle cuz now it's out of whack too.
7) is the speedo. They supply an adapter to take the drive from the GV but you have to get the right GM speedo gear.
8) is the special oil you need to run in it. Buy extra.
9) is locating and wiring their ECU, and that ugly-azz truck shifter
If an automatic
skip 1,2, and 5
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
I had clearance issues with my 273/904 combo and stock rear suspension in my 67 barracuda.
Be interesting with a big block/727. My details are in my build thread.
Be interesting with a big block/727. My details are in my build thread.
Jax340Dart
Well-Known Member
On mine 340/727 combo, I had to "adjust" the tunnel in two small areas. Gear Vendors said to use a ball peen hammer, I used a blount end air chizel and it only took a few minutes. When youre finished make sure you can slide some cardboard between the tunnel and the GV in the places where it is tight to make sure it clears. Bob
Fast340cuda
Well-Known Member
Nice! The Gear Vendor has been the best upgrade so far on my 68.
DrCharles
Well-Known Member
I'll consider buying a GV when they make an adapter that bolts onto an A-body A833 without rebuilding the entire trans into a B-body mainshaft...
Fast340cuda
Well-Known Member
I consider myself lucky as I scored a rebuilt 833 E body trans with a new gear vendor unit installed for $2k.
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
No need to say it but read the book until you can recite it. I built two drivelines because the first one was too short and I missed it in the book. Aside from that my GV has been flawless.
Do you happen to have any pictures of your gear vendors clearancing??? What tool you used and where?
HERE'S my 68' valiant for comparison
John Trickler
Well-Known Member
On my 67, went from /6 to small block 727 with GV. Had to cut and open up the tunnel. wasn't planned on, GV told me it would fit.
i don't think anyone the answers those questions at GV knows the difference between an mopar a-body and a gm a-body.
RogerCox
Well-Known Member
I have a 67’ cuda, have a 408 stroker and 727 coming from blueprint engines. Was thinking 323 gears (Dana 60), and hoping the near 500hp would help on the low end and 323 would be good for 75-80mpg hw driving.
Would I see a dramatic increase using a GEar vendor set up?
what’s your set up and still really happy with everything?
Fast340cuda
Well-Known Member
I’m running a 372 CID small block (340 block, 4.06” bore, 3.58” stroke) with a 4 speed manual and 3.91’s out back. The gear vendors turns my rear ratio into a 3.0ish gear when engaged and allows me to cruise comfortably on the freeway.
I would not run 3.23’s with my combo but I’m running a fairly large solid flat tappet cam and an LD340 intake with the plenum divider partially removed so it is not a torque monster and likes a bit of RPM. Your 408 should make more torque so 3.23’s around town may not be that bad.
I am still very happy with the unit and chose this path as I did not want to modify my cross member or trans tunnel to install an overdrive. My install only required some minor grinding to the gear vendor adaptor and a few small dimples in the trans tunnel.
RogerCox
Well-Known Member
Fast340cuda
Well-Known Member
What do you plan on running for a cam and intake? Do you plan on more highway driving or more around town?
RogerCox
Well-Known Member
Using this: BluePrint Engines Builder Series Mopar 408CI Stroker Crate Engine and 727 Auto Transmission | Small Block Chrysler | Roller Cam | Black Front Accessory Drive
Will be 50/50 highway and street, ideally I’d like to not have to spend another 3k lol. That’s why I was originally just thinking 3:23 from Dr Diff but don’t want it to be a slouch off the line. Thanks for the help!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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I have a HO367 with a Commando A833, and a GVod behind it. I have run just about every rear gear from 2.76 to 5.13s, and 3.55s have been in it since about 2005. If I had an automatic , It would be an A999/Loc-up, with a 2800TC and I would for sure try 3.23s This would make the starter gear to be 8.85, a very good street starter for an automatic and a SBM.
With your 727, the starter gear will be 7.91, but your stroker will have considerably more torque at stall than my 367, so it should in no wise be a slouch, off-the-line with 3.23s. And with them, 65=2519 at zero-slip, say up to 2650 on the tach @5% slip, with 28" tires. For a streeter that is pretty good.
The only part I don't like with the 3.23s and a 727, is that 60 mph is around 6800 in first/3800 in second, so some punk with a 4 speed and a 367, geared right, might pzzuoff. So just stay from 4-speeders, and you'll be fine.
The good news is 3.23s are about the right gear to trap the 660 in, hitting about 5750@93/ to 5950@96
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