Gerahead's 71 Dart

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gerahead

Glutton for Punishment
Joined
Aug 19, 2009
Messages
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Location
Maple Grove, MN
I joined this forum last week after discovering it. Several on the Welcome board asked for pix. I have plenty.............somewhere, but since I worked on it this weekend, I took some "fresh" ones. I have had the car for several years, I bought it from a co-worker who had run out of steam and it seemed like too good a deal to pass up. Remember now that I say this having already had a 65 Olds 4-4-2 and a 71 Mach 1 Mustang in the garage!

What I bought...............
71 Dart Swinger that was originally a 318 car. My co-worker bought it as a complete, drivable car out of Oklahoma. It was originally a metallic gold exterior with a vinyl roof and kind of a baby **** tan interior. It is a very clean car. The body had the fenders, deck lid, hood, interior and engine removed. While lots of disassembly had already taken place, there was little consideration for baggin and taggin anything. I guess he figured that he'd be able to remember! The PO had started on the body work, I have done virtually none yet, so anything that is reflected in the photos has been done previously. The rest of the car departed its former home in three pickup loads. With it, I got a pristine black dash pad, front grille, new dash panel, partially chemically stripped factory ram air hood, two additional front fenders and a partially disassembled 340 engine. Near as I can tell from the inventory that I conducted after I bought the car, everything that I can think of is there, except for a tranny flex plate.

What I have acquired since then.................
Regardless of the exterior color, the plan was to change the interior to black. So I have tracked down door panels, kick panels, head rests, steering wheel and hinge covers for the front seat backs. I found a relatively complete 71 Dart in a boneyard several years back and grabbed just about everything I could get off it that was in good condition. I know that I have dupes of some parts, but better to have too many than not enough, right? I also picked up a manual steering box, new front and rear valences, steering column, front vent window assemblies, a set of small bolt pattern ralleye wheels and caps, 3:25 posi chunk for the 8-3/4 and a boatload of factory attaching hardware.

What I have done since I got it....................
Completely stripped it down to a bare shell. Pulled out all the glass, stripped the dash and everything else from under the dash. I fabbed up a set of struts that I can bolt to the front bumper mounts and the front mounts for the leaf springs so that I can still move it around with the suspension stripped away. cut away the door strike that had been welded to the jamb, fixed the adjusting nut and rewelded the bracket. I also fabbed up some reinforcing plates from aluminum that I intend to polish and then mount behind the strike with recessed chrome machine screws to reinforce it. I found after I had it stripped and sitting on jack stands that the left front had been tweaked. bolted the suspension back under it so I could tow it into a frame shop to get straightened. I figured that since I was going to that effort, I might as well hang the sheet metal on it too, just in case they ran into some issues with alignment. The deck lid didn't fit right either, so they adjusted that as well.

Much time passed after that, I was racing the Olds, the Mustang and then bought a full tilt Mercury Comet race car. I spent lots of time dinking around with them, between fixing broken stuff and just being dumb enough to not leave well enough alone!

That brings me to date. Over this summer I have started to mock stuff back up to make sure it fits and is properly aligned. It is a good thing 'cuz I have found things I hadn't noticed before. The car has been tagged in the right rear, bent bumper mount, sheet metal bent where it attaches (fixed this weekend), found a bent front bumper mount. I have ID'd several little boo-boos that I intend to fix. I don't plan on this being an award winning show car, but I want it to look really nice when I'm done. As minimum, I want to get the passenger compartment cleaned up; remove all the spray bomb primer, epoxy prime , re-seal the seams and apply the color. After that I will try to get some work done on either the trunk or the underside, depending on how much time I have before the snow flies! Attached below are pictures of what I have sitting in the garage right now. I know that I will be a frequent visitor as I find out more stuff that I don't know, like..................

Is the underside painted the exterior color? Most of what I can see that is untouched, looks to be a blackish colored coating of some sort. Other than under the front apron undercoating, there doesn't appear to be much exterior color under the car at all. What color is the interior sheetmetal? Where I have scraped away the seam sealer, it looks like e-primer. Other than the area just below the rear door panels that is the interior color, what is the rest?

The plan............
As I stated earlier, if you can still remember, is to convert the interior color to black. The exterior is going to be the same bright yellow that you see on Chubby Cavaliers and Cobalts. I am retaining the vinyl top, but it is going to be black as is the *** stripe.

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Hey I saw in your post that you dont have a flex plate. I am converting my car to a manual trans and I have my old flex plate. It looks brand new and I have no use for it. If you pay for the shipping it is yours. Let me know if you want it.


Jeff
(Jeff, do not post your phone number in public forums, take any personal information to a private conversation please, site rules sir)
 
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I have been out in the garage the last few nights. Spent a couple of hours beating metal back into shape. MOstly things like puckered bolt holes and stuff like that. Got the area around the right rear tail light straightened out. I cleaned all of the gooey black junk off the edges of the rear window. In case anyone is interested, naptha works great.

Tonight I was going to clean up the edge of the windshield. Was into it for a few minutes and realized that some time between when I took it out and tonight, I have cracked it! Top to bottom right down the middle. Man was I po'd. So I dove into cleaning the crap out of the glass channels. The naptha works well and doesn't seem to harm the paint. One of the attachments shows the nice clean rear channel and the other I threw in just to show the exterior color paint line from the factory. I appears that they knew it was going to have a vinyl top when they squirted the exterior color and I guess that makes sense. I am planning to pick up a new paint gun and some epoxy for this weekend. I might have to go find a new windshield instead. What really irritates me is that I have been very careful handling it. L8 dudes.

Rear window channel after goo removed.JPG


Paint line on c-pillar.JPG
 
Welcome to the board and good luck with the build. Lots of knowledgeable Mopar folks here who will be able and willing to help you through your questions. Looks like you have a good car to work with...
 
right on !

thankd for the pics and keep us updated ... and Welcome aboard !

-RPM
 
I am trying to get all my stuff in order to get started on the non-exterior paint of my 71 Dart and I have a couple of questions.

- What color is the interior of the body painted? I plan to go with a bright yellow exterior with a black interior.

- What color is the underside of the car? Body color or black? The wheel well area in the fron looks to be body color with the undercoating applied over it (sort of).

- Is the passenger side exhaust hanger bolted in or welded in? Is it located in the same relative position as the driver side? Anyone have a pic available?

Thanks in advance.

Jim
 
Well the winter is over and I have some time to get back out to the garage. The last posts were pretty much the end of the restoration season for me, so now its time to get back after it. The right rear body brace on the Dart had been tagged some time back and I had done all I could do to straighten it where it sat. Sunday I broke out the cut-off wheel and the spot weld cutter and went to work. Got the bent section cut out and started beating it back into compliance. The easy stuff is done, but it looks like I will have some shrinking skills to learn and master. Turns out the bottom side of the frame rail is bent too, but it looks like it should be pretty easy to straighten. I went to an automotive painting seminar put on by a local supplier over the winter. Two nights for 3-hours each and all the time answering questions afterward that you needed. It was very informative and also taught by a couple of the local PPG reps. I will be putting the car on a rotisserie to handle the underside work, I am getting too old to want to spend all that time on my back! I found a set of plans that I liked and am waiting for the steel so I can get to wrok fabbing it up. I also picked up a TIG welder over the winter. I have never worked with one before so it will likely be a challenge. I friend of mine is a welder by trade and has offered to provide some tutoring. I'm sure I will need it. Once I get the cut out panel straightened, I'll be able to practice some of my new, mad MIG skills. Lots to do. I'll post a couple of pix here as soon as I retrain myself on how to do it. It's good to be back!
 
Hey Gerahead, Welcome! To answer a few questions for you:

It appears your not yet a Mopar guy, No problem MOST are converted for life. lol

1. The ENTIRE body, interior floor, underside (lightly), Trunk and engine compartments are all painted in body color on Mopars. No specled trunk paint no black in engine compartment. The underside was undercoated on some fairly heavy so you may find alot of that.. P.s. All areas of the rad support area that can be seen with the grill installed and hood shut should be painted flat black IF the car is painted a bright or very light color. The factory did this.

2. Your going with a black interior so the upper and lower portion of the doors and rear metal panel area are painted gloss black from the factory.

3. You should see rectangular notches and bolt holes on the rear frame rails on either side of the trunk well where the dual exhaust tips would have went.




My 2 cents , I really like that factory Gold color. Its one of the most popular colors for 71 darts yet VERy few are ever repainted that way. it would be neat to see it in its original hue. Yours is also the second 71 in this color in the recents posts as well! Gold and Black look great together IMO.
 
dahdgedaht,
Sorry, I guess I wasn't clear on the question I really had. The hanger that I was referring to is the one that is mounted on the front side of the rear axle kick-up. I didn't see anything like a dimple in the metal that is typically found where holes are drilled for bolts or where sheet metal screws are run through. I would like to either have the holes drilled or the bracked welded in before I paint. Thanks.
 
Here you go i have a 71 dart also that is or was the same color as your dart the inside are an off white and the dash is a tan, here are some pics of the inside of my car, i am going with a light yellow on mine. code is Y2.with a black strip on the back.

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The dash and pad colors look to be the same, or very close to the originals in my car. Thanks.
 
Had to take a little time off from the body brace repair to I could go on vacation. Finally got it done today. I spent a lot of time massaging the removed section with a hand held impact device to get it straighted out. This section curves slightly to the front near the outside end, so I after I had it perfectly straight, I had to pie cut it to put the curve back in. It took some creativity to get the end of the frame rail straighted out, but I was able to get it pretty close. For my first attempt at the remove, fix and weld back it cycle, I am happy with the outcome. I know now that I could have picked a part with easier accessibility for my first attempt at this. After I got it straightened out, I didn't have the nice, neat gap to reweld. The gap to the inside at the top moved quite a bit. It was quite a challenge to get 'er glued back in!

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I am trying to put together a strategy to getting the car repainted in a different color. What do you guys do to get the trunk ready for a re-colorization? The trunk can become a repository for any number of coatings that can cause issures with paint adhesion and I don't want to have to do this more than once. I have power washed it with a water soluble cleaner, what else should I consider for making sure it is good to go? Thanks for the help.
 
Finally had a chance to spend some quality time with the project this weekend. :cheers: I had intended to get the entire interior stripped of the spray bomb primer and get it done with a couple of good coats of epoxy. You would think that by now I would know better than to think like that. As is typically the case......estimate how much time a project will take....triple it and you should be pretty close. The not-so-smooth nature of the floor really is a time bandit! I really only got the back seat platform, cross braces and inner wheel wells done. I used a knotted wire wheel on a grinder and while effective, didn't work anywhere near as well as I'd hoped. Tried a flap wheel (60 grit) and it just got clogged up with the bomb primer.

What have you guys used? The floor is a little flatter, so I think I can make better use of my air sander and disks except for the grooves and such. Under the dash, above the factory primer line, there is a fair amount of surface rust from apparent water leaks. I think that I can do a lot of that with a right angle die grinder and 3" sanding disks.

Anyway, after I got the platform cleaned off, I followed it with a good bath in wax and grease remover and then layed on coat of POR 15. Once it got tacky, I layed down a couple good coats of Omni gray epoxy primer. Last night was beautiful here for painting. About 78 and no wind and low humidity with no bugs. The bad thing is that is was too still. There was no flow through air, so the overspray just hung in the garage. I'll post a couple of pix later this evening. It feels good to be making progress, even if it is slow.

Jim
 
Hay there Jim !! A little at a time bud,8) That's the why for me 8)
I am so glad you are moving forward and enjoying this great site :cheers:
It sounds like you did a good job on he floor's and you will enjoy the quite ride and be happy with the floor work you have dun. I will be doing mine soon and lower 1/4's next winter.
But this year I am going to keep it on the road and do some easy installs.
My 66 Valiant "Victoria was down for 8 months :clock::clock: seemed like a life time ,and now I finely have her back on the road again. Keep moving forward even if you think it's going slow it's still moving forward :happy10:
Looking forward to your next move
Your Arkansas friend memike :happy10:
 
Thanks for the encouragement. This has been a busy time of year and haven't been able to spend as much time on it as I'd like. I'll just keep pecking away. Frequent visits to this site to see what other members have accomplished is an amazing motivator.

Jim
 
Burnt,
Thanks for the compliment. From viewing other's projects I came to realize how fortunate I am to have such a solid car to start with! Both a blessing and a curse. Because it is in such good condition, I want to make sure that I do it justice when I'm done. This does not help to soften my cumpulsive nature to do everything as perfectly as I can ( at least when it comes to my cars!). This is my first ground up restoration so I am even more inclined to triple check everything before I dive into a section of it.
 
Here are the promised pictures of last weekend's (really only Monday's) on the Dart. The first one is after I got the area cleaned of as much of the old bomb primer as I could get at. The second is after the dose of POR15 and a couple of coats of epoxy. All that work and still only 1/3 done with the inside.

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Really, it isn't that question at all! While wire wheeling the bomb primer from the passenger side floor pan, I noticed a couple of holes in the
tunnel about even with the drip line of the instrument panel. Anyone have any idea what these might be for? This is a bench seat, column shift car, so they aren't for a console. I can't think of anything that the factory would have installed there. My anal retentive side says weld em up, but I thought I would ask here first.

I got the passenger side floor, tunnel and kick panel area cleaned up today. I have destroyed a twisted knot wheel. I had pieces of wire stuck into the legs of my jeans. Good thing I wasn't wearing shorts like usual. In case anyone wants to know, a full face shield does not provide straight line protection for your ears.

If I get an earlier start tomorrow, I should be able to get the driver side and firewall done and then brush on some POR and then epoxy. L8r Dudes!
 
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