Go to budget dizzy

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Cuda416

Cuda416

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Working on distributors lately has got me wondering what the "go to" budget distributor is (id one exists) that's not stock. I've seen the MP units and they seem pretty affordable, but I've also read about a "bad batch" made by accel at some point. other than that the only complaint I've seen about them is they spin up a little "too fast".

I realize there's nothing wrong with making my stock units work, just curious what other options are out there that won't break the bank.

-=C
 
This is the one I've been looking at. At $125.00 seems reasonable if it's a good unit.
For MOPAR 318 340 360 HiRev Electronic Ignition Kit Resto Plymouth Dodge Chrys
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That Hi-Rev box works really well. Have to use the proper ballast resistor. My experience with any distributor is the advance curve. They are seldom correct OOTB for most engine/drive train builds. 65'
 
Plymouth 65 said:
That Hi-Rev box works really well. Have to use the proper ballast resistor. My experience with any distributor is the advance curve. They are seldom correct OOTB for most engine/drive train builds. 65'
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I'm thinking Ehrenberg got it right (fingers crossed) with the one he includes in the kit.
 
Just to clarify, I'm not looking to replace the whole system. We converted it to HEI and unless there's a compelling reason to go back, I'd like to keep it. Though again, if there's a compelling reason to revert back, I'd consider it but I'm not sure what they'd be. Feel free to educate be as always.
 
Cuda416 said:
Just to clarify, I'm not looking to replace the whole system. We converted it to HEI and unless there's a compelling reason to go back, I'd like to keep it. Though again, if there's a compelling reason to revert back, I'd consider it but I'm not sure what they'd be. Feel free to educate be as always.
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Nah, just kicking the can around with ya. I'm using the original prestolite because it's original to the motor/car etc. But like the idea of an alternative that I could switch to or back to.
 
A56 said:
Nah, just kicking the can around with ya. I'm using the original prestolite because it's original to the motor/car etc. But like the idea of an alternative that I could switch to or back to.
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I wasn't singling your post out, just laying things out. I asked, and you produced. I really am open to all options and for 125, that kit looks like a really good deal.

When I went to the "yard" over the weekend, the guy wanted to charge 50 bucks each as they were.... I went elsewhere and got a better deal, but wholy moly. That's what got me thinking, then I started seeing all of the high end ones for 3-400 bucks I'm sure they're worth every penny to someone who will use all of the potential of them, but I'm not anywhere near that yet so trying to spend a little more wisely.
 
Why not get a known working distributor to change out the original & then send the original to Ray & let him do his voodoo that he do?
 
Demonracer said:
Why not get a known working distributor to change out the original & then send the original to Ray & let him do his voodoo that he do?
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Thanks, the question isn't about what's been done, or what can be done, rather what budget distributors are people using. Any one of them might get to sent to him for a number of reasons. Also, I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Not that I wouldn't send something to him, but I'm a hands on guy who will bang my head agains the wall until the hole in it is "just right" then not do it again because I understand someone else will do it better and faster. I like to know the process etc though. Just how I am.
 
I understand being tenacious, but in my case it will be more efficient to send my MSD out to have it set up for the crank trigger set up on my bracket car. I was just tossing ideas around because sometimes it gets more expensive on the user end versus having someone take care of it for you.
 
Demonracer said:
I understand being tenacious, but in my case it will be more efficient to send my MSD out to have it set up for the crank trigger set up on my bracket car. I was just tossing ideas around because sometimes it gets more expensive on the user end versus having someone take care of it for you.
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Yessir, I fully agree. No argument whatsoever :)

"I am what I am, and that's all that I am , yuck yuck yuck..." - PopEye...
 
Yep, been there & done that. I have a pile of stuff I bought with good intentions. Now I'm trying to thin the stuff down to a manageable amount to finish my bracket car. I'm tired of tripping over things, looking at it & asking myself "why did I buy that?".
 
Cuda416 said:
Any one of them might get to sent to him for a number of reasons.
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Actually my understanding is the only distributors he works on are Chrysler made, Prestolites for Chryslers, and some Mallory built units for Chryslers.
Cuda416 said:
what budget distributors are people using
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I'm a little fuzzy on what you mean by budget?
I'm sure you don't mean Skip White mystery distributor.
laugh2-gif.gif

We can't turn the clock back to when a distributor from our local parts store was $15 or $20. :(
I would not pay $50 from the junkyard for a who knows what. That's way too much for a what might be a core or maybe even just parts.

Rick Ehrenberg's ads claim his small block distributors have same curve as the Chrysler built DC/MP distributors did. Likewise his B and RB have an advance like the 60's HiPo engines had. FWIW I've posted those advance curves here. No one I can recall has posted an advance they actually measured on an E_berg distributor. But if they are what they claim, that's a good starting point for most perfromance v-8 4bbls.
 
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Mattax said:
Actually my understanding is the only distributors he works on are Chrysler made, Prestolites for Chryslers, and some Mallory built units for Chryslers.
I'm a little fuzzy on what you mean by budget?
I'm sure you don't mean Skip White mystery distributor. View attachment 1715677913
We can't turn the clock back to when a distributor from our local parts store was $15 or $20. :(
I would not pay $50 from the junkyard for a who knows what. That's way too much for a what might be a core or maybe even just parts.

Rick Ehrenberg's ads claim his small block distributors have same curve as the Chrysler built DC/MP distributors did. Likewise his B and RB have an advance like the 60's HiPo engines had. FWIW I've posted those advance curves here. No one I can recall has posted an advance they actually measured on an E_berg distributor. But if they are what they claim, that's a good starting point for most perfromance v-8 4bbls.
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Thanks Mattox, your responses to my questions have always yielded great food for thought. By budget I'm talking about anything less than a hundred bucks for a 'ready to run' distributor. But I'm also looking for something with performance in mind, meaning something like the MP in which I can adjust the total advance to whatever I want/need. I know someone will suggest the plate that's available and that's a very legit option, but I'd rather not depend on something like that for every distributor I ever mess with. Feels like an added "dizzy tax".

To be fair, the units I was going to get from the yard, were in what they call the "old car lot" portion and everything is literally double, no matter what it is. Again, I went elsewhere and walked away with two for $10 ea.

Maybe these factory units are simply about as budget as one can get. With that, the "plate" is less of a hit since at that point, as long as everything is "good", I'm all in for 45 bucks. Even for a cheap *** like me, that's not bad.

Part of this is not wanting to depend on bolt on solutions so I can learn as much as possible. It's been way too long since I've done anything like any of this so I'm very late to the party.
 
A56 said:
This is the one I've been looking at. At $125.00 seems reasonable if it's a good unit.
For MOPAR 318 340 360 HiRev Electronic Ignition Kit Resto Plymouth Dodge Chrys
View attachment 1715677802
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I have this distributor only. It works. I have not got into it to make adjustments or even see what the total is and where it ends. I might pull it this weekend and see whats going on inside for springs, advancement, etc. I do have the HiRev box as a back up to my Chrome box in case it dies on the road.
 
Cuda416 said:
But I'm also looking for something with performance in mind, meaning something like the MP in which I can adjust the total advance to whatever I want/need. I know someone will suggest the plate that's available and that's a very legit option, but I'd rather not depend on something like that for every distributor I ever mess with.
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The plate is not usually a good option because it impacts the mid and high rpm of the curve. Most factory electronic distributors (and points distributors from '68 up) the problem performance enthusiasts face is the low rpm advance is too long and too quick. This was done to offset the retarded initial timing needed to reduce HC at idle.

Cuda416 said:
Maybe these factory units are simply about as budget as one can get. With that, the "plate" is less of a hit since at that point, as long as everything is "good", I'm all in for 45 bucks. Even for a cheap *** like me, that's not bad.
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First thing needed is to measure what is in there now. Timing tape, timing light, and tach are the things to spend precious dollars on.
Then, if the advance is too quick and long between idle rpm and 1800 rpm, weld and file like I showed Rockable here
 
Mattax said:
The plate is not usually a good option because it impacts the mid and high rpm of the curve. Most factory electronic distributors (and points distributors from '68 up) the problem performance enthusiasts face is the low rpm advance is too long and too quick. This was done to offset the retarded initial timing needed to reduce HC at idle.


First thing needed is to measure what is in there now. Timing tape, timing light, and tach are the things to spend precious dollars on.
Then, if the advance is too quick and long between idle rpm and 1800 rpm, weld and file like I showed Rockable here
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Once again, you provide excellent references. Thanks!
 
It really is not abour electronic, best box in the world best bang for the buck, run from points to old a system. It is all bout the curve. 90% of the ones you buy are set up for lets say the strip where they get really fast advance at say 1200-1500 crank rpm like the MP ones. Best thing you can do if it is a stock system is get one with a curve defined in section 8 of the FSM. Forget the parts strores they are set up for a 10 year spread usually and really a crap shoot if it will work PROPERLY for you.
 
Here in Oz, I can buy 'budget' GM HEI dist for Chebbies for $80, other brands are $100. Also come adj vac adv, most important. I have used heaps of them, zero problems. I strip them to put in the curve I want. Always lubricated & well made.
Chrys ones are more expensive, not sure what the SBM cost. Bought a 440 dist today, it was $240, but that is probably because of the loooooong neck on it.
 
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