Got some non-cracked magnum heads!

[metallidart]

I came across a kid who thought his exhaust leak was a bad rod knock, found out he was wrong after he put another engine in his truck and it did the same thing. I worked a deal with him before he found out the engine was fine, and took it off his hands.

Its a 97 5.2 (318) and was complete from the tb to the pan. I tore it down, no wear on the crank, bearings, cylinders, etc. The only thing I found was some bad lifters. I really want the bottom end out of my way, someone can take it if they want it!

The heads are what I wanted. I stripped them down, cleaned everything, glass-beaded the valve heads, etc. Great guides, not much wear on anything. I have a dry and wet magnaflux at work, and couldn't find a crack anywhere.

The engine has a Chrysler tag riveted on the back of the block, it's been a while since I've looked at it but I am pretty sure it was a factory reman engine.

Anyway. I thought of doing some bowl work and opening up the pinch, maybe some polishing but nothing major. I don't really have the cash to have the guides cut down for more retainer clearance. I did get some good valve seals.

Trying to think of stuff I can sell, are these worth doing the work, resembling them, and selling them? I even have the rockers, etc. All nice. What is the going price for heads like these?

Thanks for any info!

 

[DaveBonds]

People here afraid of answering to capitalize. I'll bite.

It depends on what you've done to the heads, as for price and availability, where you are also changes price.

I think a lot of people shy away from anything that has been ported, without flow checking. Even so, it's hard to port a head without having the rest of the engine tuned properly for it. If you port them, port matching to the intake really should be checked against a block for alignment, even with a perfect gasket match and all engines are different.

This is why a lot of people like seeing cylinder heads that are left alone. You can flow check the heads, but it takes some finesse and usually some experience if you're playing with port cc's in them. You could shelve them as a head builder and do something built to order, but aside from that, I personally think they are best left alone with port work, without an engine to comply with.

The combustion chamber, polished and CC matched with some good valves, a good 3 angle valve job with stainless valves, small stems and new guides, cut for a bigger cam would look more appetizing to someone buying, but that also requires specialized work.

If I were you, I'd give a receipt to show the buyer, after you've checked and cleaned them. You could put them back together with new valves and lap them, or leave them apart and let them go to someone as a clean slate, if you want to flip them.

Be sure to give any measurements you can. a CC check on each one and valve guide size/ taper if any would be good info to any buyer. The more info you have, the less reluctant someone will be to buy somethin from you.

 

[metallidart]

Very true, I wasn't thinking about it in a buyers point of view, guess I was thinking instead about what I would do if I were to keep them. Glad you pointed that stuff out,! Maybe I will even take them to have them mag'd, just so I have the proof that a receipt. I mag cylinder jackets for locomotive engines every day, but I know people definitely feel more comfortable with proof and something like a receipt to fall back on if something happens.

Very good info, I appreciate it!

 

[Abodybomber]

Dave's description picture perfect.